Got an IFR temp reader? I'd want to see what it says the temp of the cyl head is.

Could be a sticking stat or a bad temp sender?

Just me but I like using the block check test fluid to find bad HG. It tests for exhaust gases in the coolant. The kit is ~$25 and the fluid is ~$7, some have said autozone rents the kit so you only need to buy the fluid.

 

It's so refreshing to hear from people on this forum, who know what they are talking about

Going to rent tool from Autozone, will test for combustion gases and then maybe pressure test the whole system to see the outcome.

Keeping my fingers crossed that HG is fine, if yes, going to go for OEM T-stat.

Will post the results later today or tomorrow.

 

I did the combustion leak test today with the 'Blue Liquid'. That's how I did the test:

1- Started the car from Cold start.
2- Sucked some coolant with Turkey baster, maybe '3-4' times.
3- Placed the tester in the radiator while the car was idling in park.
4- Pumped the 'ball' thing maybe 10-12 times, liquid did not change the color.
5- Discarded the old 'Blue Liquid' filled it back and then fired the car again, pumped the 'Ball' maybe 5-6 times, then reved the engine and still the coolant color was blue, but after few min it started to suck the 'Green' coolant and color did not change to 'Yellow'.
6- I tested to make sure if the tester can suck liquid inside by using water and indeed it was able to suck inside.
7- I am using Green 50/50 in the radiator.

See the attached pictures.

Does anyone of you still think it's a HG issue? Did I do the test right? Am I still missing anything?


Thanks again for the help.

 

Here is a video on how to do this test.

 

not to be rude but do you know what the head temperature parameters are for a healthy engine using IFR?

 

Totally agree, the cb7 forum has degenerated to a bunch of .......with the odd civil post thrown in.

 

I prefer a leakdown test because it's direct. Pressurize each cylinder and see where the air goes. Since I'd be the one pulling the head, I'd like to know which cylinder(s) I should be scrutinizing for eroded cylinder sleeves, cracks, warpage, etc. And since I'm a cheapskate I like a leakdown test because it's free. Take the Schrader valve and gauge off of a compression tester, adapt it to my compressor hose, and I've got my leakdown tester.

Nothing wrong with testing for hydrocarbons in the cooling system especially if you're going to farm out the HG replacement. The shop will be on the hook to make sure the job is successful so it's their job to check for all the little things that could cause it to fail.

 

I am also trying to be cheap, and planning to fix it by myself.

Ordered an OEM Honda t-stat yesterday, going to install and post back the results.

As block tester showed no hydrocarbons in the cooling system.

If t-stat didn't resolve the issue going to do a leak down test.

Also, I do not have a compressor

 

Can't do a leakdown without a compressor. O'Reilly auto parts stores in my area loan out compression testers that are easily disassembled and reassembled. Keep in mind that my car did not overheat if was filled with coolant and bled, even with a bad HG, so I think you and everyone else is right in suspecting a flaky T-stat. I suggested before and at the risk of sounding like a whiner I'll repeat: temporarily run the car without a T-stat to rule it out as being a problem. That way there's no question about it constricting coolant flow.

 

Did you or someone else replace the temperature switch on the thermostat housing?