I am planning to do a leakdown test, but need to buy a compressor first.

Stay tuned, I will DEFINITELY post back the results, i-e that I LOST the engine or have fixed it.

Because I am just LOST!!!!!!

 

Just my 2 cents here, the "normal" operating temperature can fall "anywhere" between the line just above the blue and the line just below the red. The thermostat opens above 190 degrees so your hand is not a good way to confirm the coolant temp unless you have a high pain threshold and commonly pick up boiling pots of water, use a thermometer please. I am definetely convinced you have a leak in the system. When your engine heats up the coolant expands creating higher pressure. The high pressure pushes the coolant past the rad cap to the resevior tank. overnight the coolant cools and shrinks creating a vacuem and pulls the coolant from the resevior back into the system. You stated that in the morning you pour the coolant from the resevior back into the radiator. This should not be possible in a sealed system. You stated that your water pump is weeping? I would replace that and also your timing belts if they have not been done.

 

Thanks so much for helping out.

Water Pump and has major T/B work has been done nearly 2 or 3 years ago with all tensioners and belts.

What are other possible common places for coolant leak? I have replaced upper/lower radiator hoses, many small hoses and heater core piece below dist.

Would be great, if I can get a cooling diagram or hoses which carry coolant, I will go ahead and replace all of them.


Another thing; on a cold start, while sitting on the driver seat, I hear a gargling or like water flowing(very faint) from a fall sound coming behind the Tape/CD or Fan area. Does it have anything to do with the overheating?

Forgive my ignorance, trying to rule out every possible reason for overheating, also need to do a leakdown test too!

 

Gurgling behind the dash? Heater core?

 

So I tried to bleed and burp the system today by jacking the car from front.

If you guys see this clip:

It seems like when I rev the engine, coolant comes out of the radiator cap in a continuous stream(As in the video--example 3) and as soon as I stop reving, coolant level just goes down.

Is it a clear indication of Bad headgasket, if so, do you guys have any recommendation for HG brand? Can I just replace the HG, without doing Timing belt? Because I don't wanna do timing belt.

 

You have to remove the timing belt off of the cam sprocket to remove the cylinder head, so you might as well remove the crank pulley and make sure that the timing belt is aligned when you replace the head gasket.

Make sure that you take the cylinder head and get it milled at a machine shop, so it is perfectly flat and have it pressure tested. Replacing the valve guides would not be a bad idea either. A remanufactured cylinder head may be another route you may want to consider.

Felpro makes good aftermarket gaskets, IMO. You can never go wrong with the parts from the dealership, but they may cost more money.

 

X2 on Felpro.

Quick & dirty: put everthing at #1 @ TDC, don't remove crank pulley, lower cover, or cam gear. Remove rocker arm assembly then tilt the back of the camshaft up so the belt slips off the cam gear. Reverse to reinstall. Readjust timing belt tension if necessary.

Wire-wheel head bolt threads. Blow out head bolt holes and chase them with a clean head bolt. Lube bolt threads and washers with engine oil. Torque per the FSM with a known accurate torque wrench.

X2 on getting the head checked for flatness. Check the block for flatness too.

 

Thanks so much guys for helping a 'noob'.

I am definitely planning to go FelPro for Head gasket, should I replace IM gasket too?

Honestly, trying to be CHEAP, so if I skip valve guides what issues I can face in the future?

Yes, I am definitely trying to go as simple as possibly I can

In order to remove rocker arm, do I need to touch cam gear?

Should I re-use the old bolts or use new one(Need to save $)? Where can I get FSM?

Planning to resurface/mill the head, how can I check block flatness?

Thanks again guys for helping me out

 

What year/trim level is this car? Put that in your sig so everyone doesn't have to guess or go through pages of earlier posts. Thanks.

All the gaskets from removed parts should be replaced. A head gasket set might be cheaper overall. The cam gear stays on camshaft. The rocker assembly just unbolts and lifts straight up. I reused the old head bolts The FSM doesn't indicate that they should be replaced. FSM links here: Common DIY sticky. The FSM calls for a "precision straightedge" and feeler gauges to check if the block's flat. I cheaped out by using an 18" steel ruler and checked it twice, flipping the ruler over in case the ruler was warped. It wasn't.

Note that this is not the FSM way of R&R'ing the head. I did this way because I had just replaced the TB/WP and didn't want to go through the hassle of R&R'ing the TB. It worked fine for me but still be prepared to R&R the crankshaft pulley & re-time the engine in case you can't get it timed correctly. Some whiteout on the cam gear and TB to help match them up makes the job easier.

 

Thanks so much for your help and response.

Added the signature, my bad for not adding at the first place

Like I said earlier, planning to go with the MOST economical(CHEAP) route, don't wanna dump any more money into this beater!!! I have done the major T/B, W/P and all tensioners, so don't wanna do that either.

I am DEFINITELY planning to mark the T/B and cam gear with some WHITE marker or nail polish or anything to align the marks.

What you guys think for this Headgasket:

I have already bought Valve cover gasket set(Includes spark plug tube seals and valve cover gasket), recently replaced dist-o-ring, now planning to get

IM = FEL-PRO Part # MS95533
HG = FEL-PRO Part # 9958PT1
Am I missing anything else? While keeping in mind trying to save $$$ too

Any experience with this one:
94 02 Honda Accord Acura CL 2 2L 2 3L F22B1 F23A1 MLS Head Gasket | eBay


Any suggestions, advice and help is greatly appreciated