You can get the shop manual as a pdf from automanualsource.com for $22. The black and yellow wires are for the CYP sensor and have nothing to do with spark. The black and yellow wires both originate from the PCM.

The yel/blk wire is power to the distributor and yel/grn wire is the switch to fire the coil. This wiring is for the original engine wire harness.

I can't tell from your pic which is the original and the distributor wire harness. Are the 4 wires in the foreground the engine wire harness side?

 

I have a shop manual waiting for me to view at a local library.. After removing the main fuse box at engine compartment, I noticed that the black wire is going into the firewall to the PCM .however, this black wire is a smaller gauge then one going to the distributor. Any idea why this would be?. I did check for ohms at this plug to the pigtail and got nothing. Trying keep from unraveling tape.

 

Hello,

Got the PDF manual and did the Coil test and got 1.1 volts..The IMC test I got no continuity and I ran a jumper wire from the IMC ( blk/ yell wire) to the interior relay and got nothing also did the Ignition switch to the relay blk. yellow wire test and still got no power. Any ideas on my next step?. Got the manual now.

 

Trying to figure out what test you did on each component, because your description is vague.

What test did you do on each wire? Let us know how you connected your volt meter for each test.

 

After the car started twice as is.

1. Did the Coil test with the 2 (A+)( B-)terminals and got 1.1 (meter set at 2K ohms).
2. . Tested the for continuity by using a jumper wire from the IMC ( blk/ yell wire) to the interior starter relay and got nothing (meter set 2K ohms)
3. Tested the Ignition switch to the relay blk./ yel wire test and had no power (meter set at A/C 200v)..Turned the ignition switch on checked for voltage (as above) between the black yellow wire and read no power.
4. Checked the black yellow wire between the ignition switch and the ICM.(meter set at A/C 200v)
6. With the ignition on, checked the voltage (meter at A/C 200v) between the black and blue of the ICM and read power. Have to check again for exact power.
7. Disconnected the ECM and checked for continuity (meter set at 2K) at the yell / grn wire between the ICM and the PCM connector terminal and got no continuity with car battery disconnected..
8. Tested some other wires leading (female side of conn.)to the PCM and still read open lines.

In tracing the 16 gauge BLK.. wire (that was showing intermittent power) at the male side of the connector, leading to the dist. noticed that it runs at the under side of the wire wrap and could lead to the firewall connector. At the firewall connector, all the wires are 20 gauge. Could there be a wire reducer somewhere?. Note the main fuse box was removed from the firewall bracket, for an easier access to the connectors.

 

Just to update the trouble shooting on the car, noticed that the main eng./ battery ground cable at the front passenger side -cable was showing corrosion and some oil on it. Removed it / checked the ohms.and cleaned it with wire brush. Also, sanded down the area. Plan is to get the car ready for another test start. Checked all ground cables and still won't fire up. Could the crankshaft positioning sensor be bad with a no spark issue?. Checked voltage on the CPC/TDC sensor and got .21 volts (AC) (20v setting) and checked power on the male side of the plug and got .12 V.. Check engine is still not light coming on. Checked the timing belt and it is good not broken. Taking the to a local shop ,I'll keep the forum updated on the results.. Back from a shop. Hours of trouble shooting, noticed a wrong wiring in the dist. pigtail connector that where soldered. Hooked up a Non-vetec PCM with a the Ing. key to match.. Car had original eng. replaced earlier..Car starts with hesitation then runs good up to high RPM's and check engine light on..(Spark good)mechanic find a PCM with a ignition key that is set for VTEC valves timing. Question to forum, will this new PCM work for 01 accord and make it pass emissions?.

Correction on the last update. The engine is for the 2.3 NON vtec--.. Got a used PCM that matches the model number for the original PCM . Shop mech. is estimating 300$ for the install and programming that will include installation of the original keyed ignition. Might just install myself with a scanner that will allow the input for the VIN number. Invested 1200$ and many hours at this point. Time will tell on the next update to post that my car runs and drives. One main factor the repair. The past mechanic soldered two wires incorrectly leading to distributor, this has been corrected.

Recent update thinking about installing the original PC a with keyed ignition ( the current for the Vtec has been removed ) and I have a Foxwell Nt710 directional scanner for the PCM. Also, I contacted a rep for Foxwell and was told that they do not make a scanner for my diagnostic and the seller on line said it will work. Question is, should I go ahead and hookup the new used non- Vtec PCM, with original keyed ignition and use the scanner to reprogram the Vin/ emissions?. This would be a first for me. I would appreciate any advise on the next step for my Accord. Did the scanner hook up, entered vin. still car cranks no start up. Next, contact FOXWELL and talk to a rep on how to set up scanner. Went to last mech. and was told to call locksmith who has the license to reset PCM on cars. This was done and the car starts and runs great also has a Honda new battery (Last Opima from parts place lasted 30 days.). Note to the readers of this Forum= all-ways use Honda tune up parts at least (OME) is the way to go and always check and recheck your work and others. Now is Smog / DMV to get the NON- operational done and a well deserved Sunday leisure drive. Lesson learned on this one. Not home free yet, when I set the original KEY then I made a mistake and used the _Valet key and then after that the mobilizer light wouldn't light up with no start. Tried to do the key reset with locking and unlocking the door then put the key in the ignition and leave in the on position for 10 min. .Also, did the bad key in the ingnition/ w holding the valet key on the side with no luck. Looking for advise on setting up the key / mobilizer again without the help for another locksmith visit.
At this time the main key works with door locks along with alarm setting. When the key is in the ignition and to on there is no green mobilzer light hence, no start.

 

Just checking if the I could get a reply from the latest forum post that was on 4/24 , and updated recently for the accord. Still new to this forum. It has been very helpful so far.
Thanks.

 

I think what is happening is when you edit and add on to the 4/25/2023 post, your thread doesn't get moved to the top. So we never noticed the updates. Probably best to put a new post with updates.

The key has two functions that are completely separate. The lock/unlock/alarm is a completely different system than the transponder for the immobilizer. Using the wrong key shouldn't erase the original key.

When a good key is inserted into the ignition and turned to the II position (don't try to start the car). The key light should turn on for two seconds and turn off. When you turn the key to off, the key light should flash for about 5 seconds then turn off. This is to say the immobilizer reset.

If you try the same thing with the wrong key in the II position, the key light will turn on for two seconds and keep flashing. I think the key light should also flash for 5 seconds when you turn the key to off indicating the immobilizer rest, but the shop manual isn't really clear.

Just let us know how the key light is behaving.

 

The light did flash and then went off when key turned off. Car started right up again. Thanks a lot appreciate it.

Scratch that last update. Did;not let the car run to long with no tags and blocked driveway. Now the green mobilizer light is off when key is on. Pulled the neg. on the battery and did the immobilizer reset with no luck .Ready to call the locksmith again.....

After the drive that was a treat, returned to get the smog with a pass.. Later after a drive with the car starting multiple times no problem, The car did the crank no- start thing again. After some trying to start with the immobilizer light not showing, it did start to get home. What next?, any advise as always would be appreciated.