Changed Distributor seal and o-ring, now won't start
#1
10-25-2011, 11:57 PM
Changed Distributor seal and o-ring, now won't start
97 Honda Accord LX, just replaced the distributor internal seal and o-ring. I've been searching on here for hours and I've tried 99% of the recommended stuff:
- Car ran just fine prior to this, there was just a huge oil leak on the head at the distributor hole and coming out of the distributor cap...I also found oil in the spark plug holes and on the spark plugs
- I marked the distributor's location with a marker...but forgot to do TDC first, if that matters
- I originally had the distributor rotor flipped 180 degrees + one of the connectors not all the way in, so it wouldn't start (the green and yellow plug as seen here: http://honda-tech.com/showpost.php?p...83&postcount=1 ). I corrected both of these and verified that the rotor points at the #1 plug wire on the distributor when at TDC
- I get spark (tested each wire w/ a screw driver + grounded bolt, and verified with the wire + plug in) and gas (I can smell it + fuel pump primes and I here the click when the CEL light goes off)
- I flooded the engine when I didn't have one of the connectors in and the distributor rotor flipped, I would assume. So I did the gas pedal all the way down while cranking to un-flood the motor. Now it cranks faster and stronger, but still nothing.
- I held the coil plug wire a little out of the coil and verified spark
- Without the oil cap on, I verified that the cam DOES still move (rules out snapped timing belt)
- I've checked all the fuses
- Checked over and over that the plug wires were in the correct order on the distributor.
The only thing left is checking the timimg, but can I check timing if the car won't crank? Do I just get someone to keep cranking the car?
I don't have the money to buy-n-check, so I was trying to narrow it down before just buying a new distributor and/or coil.
- Car ran just fine prior to this, there was just a huge oil leak on the head at the distributor hole and coming out of the distributor cap...I also found oil in the spark plug holes and on the spark plugs
- I marked the distributor's location with a marker...but forgot to do TDC first, if that matters
- I originally had the distributor rotor flipped 180 degrees + one of the connectors not all the way in, so it wouldn't start (the green and yellow plug as seen here: http://honda-tech.com/showpost.php?p...83&postcount=1 ). I corrected both of these and verified that the rotor points at the #1 plug wire on the distributor when at TDC
- I get spark (tested each wire w/ a screw driver + grounded bolt, and verified with the wire + plug in) and gas (I can smell it + fuel pump primes and I here the click when the CEL light goes off)
- I flooded the engine when I didn't have one of the connectors in and the distributor rotor flipped, I would assume. So I did the gas pedal all the way down while cranking to un-flood the motor. Now it cranks faster and stronger, but still nothing.
- I held the coil plug wire a little out of the coil and verified spark
- Without the oil cap on, I verified that the cam DOES still move (rules out snapped timing belt)
- I've checked all the fuses
- Checked over and over that the plug wires were in the correct order on the distributor.
The only thing left is checking the timimg, but can I check timing if the car won't crank? Do I just get someone to keep cranking the car?
I don't have the money to buy-n-check, so I was trying to narrow it down before just buying a new distributor and/or coil.
#2
10-26-2011, 05:49 AM
Most likely the spark is too weak to fire under cylinder compression (much higher air gap resistance). Suggest checking for spark w/ timing light on lead/s. No flash= no spark.
good luck
good luck
#3
01-27-2021, 06:12 PM
97 Honda Accord LX, just replaced the distributor internal seal and o-ring. I've been searching on here for hours and I've tried 99% of the recommended stuff:
- Car ran just fine prior to this, there was just a huge oil leak on the head at the distributor hole and coming out of the distributor cap...I also found oil in the spark plug holes and on the spark plugs
- I marked the distributor's location with a marker...but forgot to do TDC first, if that matters
- I originally had the distributor rotor flipped 180 degrees + one of the connectors not all the way in, so it wouldn't start (the green and yellow plug as seen here: http://honda-tech.com/showpost.php?p...83&postcount=1 ). I corrected both of these and verified that the rotor points at the #1 plug wire on the distributor when at TDC
- I get spark (tested each wire w/ a screw driver + grounded bolt, and verified with the wire + plug in) and gas (I can smell it + fuel pump primes and I here the click when the CEL light goes off)
- I flooded the engine when I didn't have one of the connectors in and the distributor rotor flipped, I would assume. So I did the gas pedal all the way down while cranking to un-flood the motor. Now it cranks faster and stronger, but still nothing.
- I held the coil plug wire a little out of the coil and verified spark
- Without the oil cap on, I verified that the cam DOES still move (rules out snapped timing belt)
- I've checked all the fuses
- Checked over and over that the plug wires were in the correct order on the distributor.
The only thing left is checking the timimg, but can I check timing if the car won't crank? Do I just get someone to keep cranking the car?
I don't have the money to buy-n-check, so I was trying to narrow it down before just buying a new distributor and/or coil.
- Car ran just fine prior to this, there was just a huge oil leak on the head at the distributor hole and coming out of the distributor cap...I also found oil in the spark plug holes and on the spark plugs
- I marked the distributor's location with a marker...but forgot to do TDC first, if that matters
- I originally had the distributor rotor flipped 180 degrees + one of the connectors not all the way in, so it wouldn't start (the green and yellow plug as seen here: http://honda-tech.com/showpost.php?p...83&postcount=1 ). I corrected both of these and verified that the rotor points at the #1 plug wire on the distributor when at TDC
- I get spark (tested each wire w/ a screw driver + grounded bolt, and verified with the wire + plug in) and gas (I can smell it + fuel pump primes and I here the click when the CEL light goes off)
- I flooded the engine when I didn't have one of the connectors in and the distributor rotor flipped, I would assume. So I did the gas pedal all the way down while cranking to un-flood the motor. Now it cranks faster and stronger, but still nothing.
- I held the coil plug wire a little out of the coil and verified spark
- Without the oil cap on, I verified that the cam DOES still move (rules out snapped timing belt)
- I've checked all the fuses
- Checked over and over that the plug wires were in the correct order on the distributor.
The only thing left is checking the timimg, but can I check timing if the car won't crank? Do I just get someone to keep cranking the car?
I don't have the money to buy-n-check, so I was trying to narrow it down before just buying a new distributor and/or coil.
#4
08-06-2022, 02:14 PM
Was this issue solved?
I have a 1995 Honda Accord I’m going through the same situation change the O-rings in the distributor change the spark plugs the wires cleaned everything took the valve cover off everything it cranks but no start why and it keeps leaking oil from underneath the distributor where there’s a little void space what is it and why?
Where was the oil coming from under the distributor?
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churritos567
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01-05-2011 12:01 PM
97, accord, car, changing, distributer, distributor, distriubuter, distrubter, honda, oring, replace, replacement, replacing, ring, start
