I'm starting to get frustrated and I'm not sure where to go at this point.
1996 Honda Accord LX 5 Speed
JDM F22B SOHC Non-Vtech 35,000 Miles. Used only Block and head. Everything else was transferred from previous F22B2 Engine Including Oil Pump With Crank Sensor And Old Dizzy. Old Engine had 168,000 miles on it I blew a Rod Bearing.

After swap car ran perfect with no Check Engine Lights on. Recently after hitting 1,000 miles on the swapped Engine the light came on. I took it back right away to the mechanic and he check the code and said it was oxygen sensor bank 2 and that I would be fine driving until I replaced that. The very next day The engine died while driving. First the tach jumped up and down then it just died. I was traveling at about 45 mph. The engine will crank all day but will not turn over. I got the car towed home and the next day I started troubleshooting. First checked for fuel my removing the main line to the rail and cranked plenty of fuel was coming through. I ruled out the fuel pump and fuel filter. I next checked for spark and found the problem. No spark out of the wires or the coil. I removed the ignition coil and took it to AutoZone and had it checked. He said it was fine. I reinstalled the ignition coil. I checked the 7.5 ECU Fuse it was fine as well.. I then purchased a new main relay just in case and still wont turn over. I pulled off the valve cover cap and the timing belt is fine. Next I pulled out the DIZZY for inspection and there was oil inside and rotor looked bad. So I rebuilt the dizzy. I replaced the Ignition Control module ($49.99 AutoZone).
I replaced the Dizzy shaft Inner Seal and and outter o Ring ($14.99 EBAY) I put the dizzy back together with new rotor (19.99 AutoZone) And new Cap (16.99 O'Ryelly) The only I didn't change is the TDC sensor inside the Dizzy because of Price. Available online only between $160.00-$230.00. (Price of new Dizzy) I installed my Dizzy last night. Still the Engine wont turn over. Whats Next?? Crank Sensor?? or perhaps when my mechanic installed new timing belts with with swap he left them too loose and it jumped timing?? Should I go ahead and buy a new ignition coil anyways just to be sure?? Will a bad TDC sensor stop the Engine from turning over? Somebody please help. I welcome all advice before I start spending more money.
Thank You.

 

based on your troubleshooting and repairs it's either time for new/remanf. dist. (that will come with a cam/tdc sensor) or the ecm is bad. find yourself a salvage yard distributor and transfer all your new shiny parts to it and i bet it starts...

 

Check for codes again. You can do this the obd1 way. Open the link for checking engine codes in the common diy thread on top of the gen tech help forum. Do this before blindly replacing the distributor. Also inspect the wires that go to the ICM inside of the distributor for any damage.

Check for 12V to the blk/yel wire that goes to the distributor and the coil when the key is in the II position. Use a valve cover bolt as the ground.

There is also an important ground on the firewall, on the driver's side of the car near the brake booster. I would disconnect that ground and clean it. In that common diy thread, there is a link for online shop manuals.

The 94 shop manual can be downloaded from the hondatech site as a pdf. In the electrical section under relays and ground locations, it shows all of the grounds in the engine bay. Since the engine was swapped, I would check them out. G101 is the important ground I was talking about. This should help out a lot.

Also, the resistance test on the coil can fool you into believing the coil is good. There are some tests you can do to figure out the problem.

 

I will be checking all the grounds today. I was also thinking the testing on the ignition module done buy the AutoZone manager could be false as well. The ECU im always sure is not the problem but with a 16 year old car you never know. I might buy a dizzy off Ebay made by Rich Porter Technology. $147.47 with free shipping. It's Brand new with a Life Time warranty. Anybody have any feedback about that brand.
I also found a OEM TEC used ignition coil for $50.00
The coils are $69.99 at both AutoZone or O'Rylley brand new but they don't fit the OEM bracket where the three bolts and washer lock it into place. There is a slight difference in shape. I have taken the bracket into both stores for proper fit and the the two brands they sell just wont bolt in.

 

Well I gave up and had it towed to the mechanic. He called me back two days later and said it was the crank sensor. I took him one that I got from the my local Honda Auto Wreckers for $50.00. He called me today and said it was ready. Well when I drove away the rev limiter started kicking in at 3000 rpm. What Now??

 

Did you do the check for voltage to the distributor blk/yel wire?

I hate to have you throw parts at the car.

I am leaning towards a PCM (aka ECU) problem. Check out car-part.com to search for engine computers at junkyards. You can sort by price or by distance to see what is available in your area. You may want to price out a coil, but your mechanic should have figured that out.

 

Sounds like ECU as well to me.
Also you do not find it odd that they list every JDM motor as 35K miles? That is complete BS BTW as they have no idea how many miles are on the motor.

 

Well after the rev limiter starting acting weird I took it straight back to the mechanic and left it overnight. They connected 3 different High End scanners and kept getting the same code. ''TPS Sensor Malfunction" The TPS sensor is inside the dizzy and that's the only thing I didn't change. In fact it may have gotten ruined when the crank sensor went out or when I rebuilt the dizzy. Who knows? Anyways my mechanic advised me to just get a dizzy from my local Honda Salvage yard for $80 and don't do anything to it and just pop it in and see what happens. If that still does not fix the rev limiter issue then Ill go ahead and grab an ECU from the Honda Salvage Yard as well. I'll post the resolution.

In regards to the JDM Engine having only 35,000 miles on it....Well your absolutely correct. I don't know......Nobody Knows
But I do know one thing.....
When I purchased the engine I did my homework. The complete longblock looked brand new with alternator power steering pump and even all the belts .
I bought it from HMO Motors
Specializing in JDM-USDM Engines & Parts...hmotorsonline.com
They have the best reputation in southern California. Everybody here in the scene in Los Angele's know all about them since 1998.
They stamp there logo on the block and the head with pride and when I went to the warehouse in Burbank CA to pick up my engine I was amazed by there inventory.
They had H22's and half chopped JDM cars everywhere.
Before I purchased from HMO a few other vendors tried selling me rusted looking engines claiming that they only had 50,000-65,000 miles.
My mechanic was truly amazed when I dropped off my engine. He took a look at the valves and said Wow! "Almost like New"

I don't know how many miles it has exactly but when then the owner of HMO Motors told me 30,000 to 35,000 miles... I almost wanna believe him.
I truly do believe it has less then 50,000 for sure.

 

Alright. I got my new dizzy in the mail today. It's used Honda OEM from a local vendor on Ebay. It was in almost perfect condition. I purchased for $53.99 with free shipping which was a great price cause my usual Honda salvage yard wanted $85.00. I also purchased a used ECM for $25.00 from a 97 5 speed LX. That will arrive in a few days from a guy in Main. He just shipped it today and I live in Los Angeles. I ordered it just in case and the price was right.

I Just Installed the Dizzy.
I made sure and reset the ecm by pulling out the 10 amp ecm fuse and the 7.5 amp backup radio fuse.
The car started right up and after it warmed up to normal operating temperature I was not able to rev past 3,000 RPM AGAIN.
Now after all my troubleshooting I got 1 Extra Rebuilt Dizzy, 2 Extra Caps and Rotors, And two Extra Ignition Control Modules. At least I'm set for the long run. When I get this ECM in a couple of days and when I swap it out and it still does not fix my problem I then will have an extra ECM.

Someone Please Help! I'm Stumped and really irritated
Anybody got any ideas???

After I reset the ECM And the car is cold it runs like a dream.
Once it warms up to normal operating temperature THE CEL TURNS ON AND I CANT REV PAST 3K. Can the MAP Sensor cause this?
Perhaps my mechanic did a ****ty job installing the crank sensor??
Maybe the crank sensor I bought from the salvage yard was bad??
Maybe my new ECM will fix everything........God I hope so. I'm going ****in broke with this project. When the CEL lights up The code is TPS SENSOR
Anybody have any feedback or ideas???
Thanks

 

Since the ECU is not giving you codes for other sensors, then I would not worry about them. Just try the replacement ECU.

You may want to check the ground connections in the engine bay. There is one by the brake booster that is an important ground.