DIY Timing Belt - honest opinion needed
2001 Accord EX, 5 speed. I replaced the original timing belt at a little over 100K, I'm at 193K now and getting to "that point" where it's almost time to replace it again.
Looking for honest opinions on how easy is this for a intermediate home repair guy? Have done the basics, oil changes, brake pad & rotor replacement, replaced all the other belts, tune up, shocks, etc....
Is a timing belt something a schmuck like me should attempt with my car on jack stands and my radio blasting bad 80's tunes???
Or should I suck it up and take it to a "pro"?
Looking for honest opinions on how easy is this for a intermediate home repair guy? Have done the basics, oil changes, brake pad & rotor replacement, replaced all the other belts, tune up, shocks, etc....
Is a timing belt something a schmuck like me should attempt with my car on jack stands and my radio blasting bad 80's tunes???
Or should I suck it up and take it to a "pro"?
It depends on how determined you are to "get the job done". It is a fairly demanding job that requires 6-8 hrs for DIY. I just did this last week on my 94Ex and spent about that time and I've done this job 5-6 times on various honda and acura products. You need a manual for your model, one jack stand to provide an emergency support (you really get into the wheel well while working), two 1/2" x 18" good quality breaker bars, one 3-ft cheater pipe to fit over a breaker bar, and the Honda crank pulley restraint tool to hold the crankshaft while you break the pulley bolt. Remaining tools are typical tools, metric sockets and combination wrenches. I'm assuming here the 2001 is similar to earlier models.
If you decide to do this job, PM your email address. I have a pdf file that has some helpful tips and guidance (based on earlier models).
good luck
If you decide to do this job, PM your email address. I have a pdf file that has some helpful tips and guidance (based on earlier models).
good luck
Thanks Texas,
I've got most of that (only one breaker bar and need the honda tool), I"m assuming the 3ft cheater pipe is just a regular pipe that will fit over the breaker bar???
I've got the Haynes Manual for my car, still debating on if I want to tackle it or not, getting stuff taken apart is easy it's the putting it back with all the parts that escapes me sometimes.
I really don't want to take it to a shop but will at last resort, or course if I get it taken apart and can't get it back together I might be screwed too. ha ha.
I've got most of that (only one breaker bar and need the honda tool), I"m assuming the 3ft cheater pipe is just a regular pipe that will fit over the breaker bar???
I've got the Haynes Manual for my car, still debating on if I want to tackle it or not, getting stuff taken apart is easy it's the putting it back with all the parts that escapes me sometimes.
I really don't want to take it to a shop but will at last resort, or course if I get it taken apart and can't get it back together I might be screwed too. ha ha.
I'm 19, did it myself when I was 18.... Time consuming, yes, difficult, not too bad. Just make sure you have something to fall back on if something unexpected comes up.
ORIGINAL: mamtsberg
Thanks Texas,
I've got most of that (only one breaker bar and need the honda tool), I"m assuming the 3ft cheater pipe is just a regular pipe that will fit over the breaker bar???
I've got the Haynes Manual for my car, still debating on if I want to tackle it or not, getting stuff taken apart is easy it's the putting it back with all the parts that escapes me sometimes.
I really don't want to take it to a shop but will at last resort, or course if I get it taken apart and can't get it back together I might be screwed too. ha ha.
Thanks Texas,
I've got most of that (only one breaker bar and need the honda tool), I"m assuming the 3ft cheater pipe is just a regular pipe that will fit over the breaker bar???
I've got the Haynes Manual for my car, still debating on if I want to tackle it or not, getting stuff taken apart is easy it's the putting it back with all the parts that escapes me sometimes.
I really don't want to take it to a shop but will at last resort, or course if I get it taken apart and can't get it back together I might be screwed too. ha ha.
The part that defeats many diy'rs is the crankshaft pulley bolt. Many try to use a 1/2" air impact. This tool will occasionally work, but is not usually up to the job. You will need a high quality 500+ ft-lbs (CCW) air impact to have any chance. W/ the air impact, the restraint tool is not necessary. Last time I did this job I lubed my pulley bolt w/ anti-sieze and it came off much easier when I broke it last weekend after 5 yrs and 60K miles of service.
good luck
The job is more time consuming than difficult.
TexasHonda is correct, the crankshaft pulley bolt is a pain and requires a lot of torque to remove. The other thing that you need to ensure is that you get both belts on properly. I marked the original belt and engine sprockets with whiteout to provide me a second set of marks. I pulled off the old belt and used it as a template to mark the new belt.
TexasHonda is correct, the crankshaft pulley bolt is a pain and requires a lot of torque to remove. The other thing that you need to ensure is that you get both belts on properly. I marked the original belt and engine sprockets with whiteout to provide me a second set of marks. I pulled off the old belt and used it as a template to mark the new belt.
Aligning timing belt is important. See my note from yesterdayunder "MPG' thread.
However, alignment precisionhas limits. The belt can only fit into the grooves of the camshaft and crankshaft sprockets. If you install belt to one position on camshaft sprocket, rotate belt to seat, align crankshaft sprocket, and alignment is now perhaps 1/2 cog off on camshaft, you must adjust camshaft by at least one sprocket cog (direction as required) to improve alignments. This should result in 1/2 cog error in other direction. Becausecamshaft sprocket rotates twice for every crankshaft sprocket rotation, this is abetter place to adjust.
I don't know if this is a problem for aftermarket timing belts or is possible w/ all timing belts. The ones I installed last weekend had no alignnment marks on the belt and OEM belts do have alignment marks. I suspect you can also have problems w/ OEM belts. By rotating only the camshaft sprocket while holding the crankshaft sprocket in alignment, you can do as good as is possible.
Note, you do TB adjustment by loosening TB (loosen lock nut, push tensioner to loose position, and lock nut), slipping TB off camshaft sprocket, rotating camshaft sprocket as indicated, and then re-installing TB on camshaft sprocket. Loosen tensioner nut, rotate crankshaft CCW 3 cogs on camshaft sprocket, and re-lock tensioner nut. After this rotate crankshaft 5-6 times and bring crankshaft back to perfect alignment and check your camshaft alignment. Redo as necessary.
Note, you could take the TB off and install w/ former inside edge to the outside. This would produce a different alignment which may or may not be better.
Note, it's easy to discuss this when you're not in the middle of the timing belt job. When you've been working for 6+ hrs, you're ready to call it a day; 1/2 cog seems close enough! However, my recent experience suggests time spent may be worth it.
good luck
However, alignment precisionhas limits. The belt can only fit into the grooves of the camshaft and crankshaft sprockets. If you install belt to one position on camshaft sprocket, rotate belt to seat, align crankshaft sprocket, and alignment is now perhaps 1/2 cog off on camshaft, you must adjust camshaft by at least one sprocket cog (direction as required) to improve alignments. This should result in 1/2 cog error in other direction. Becausecamshaft sprocket rotates twice for every crankshaft sprocket rotation, this is abetter place to adjust.
I don't know if this is a problem for aftermarket timing belts or is possible w/ all timing belts. The ones I installed last weekend had no alignnment marks on the belt and OEM belts do have alignment marks. I suspect you can also have problems w/ OEM belts. By rotating only the camshaft sprocket while holding the crankshaft sprocket in alignment, you can do as good as is possible.
Note, you do TB adjustment by loosening TB (loosen lock nut, push tensioner to loose position, and lock nut), slipping TB off camshaft sprocket, rotating camshaft sprocket as indicated, and then re-installing TB on camshaft sprocket. Loosen tensioner nut, rotate crankshaft CCW 3 cogs on camshaft sprocket, and re-lock tensioner nut. After this rotate crankshaft 5-6 times and bring crankshaft back to perfect alignment and check your camshaft alignment. Redo as necessary.
Note, you could take the TB off and install w/ former inside edge to the outside. This would produce a different alignment which may or may not be better.
Note, it's easy to discuss this when you're not in the middle of the timing belt job. When you've been working for 6+ hrs, you're ready to call it a day; 1/2 cog seems close enough! However, my recent experience suggests time spent may be worth it.
good luck
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