Firstoff, the car is a 93 Accord 4-cyl and 4-door, not sure if it's an EX or LX -it doesn't have a sunroof, though - belonging to Daughter-in-College. Last week, the drivers window decided not to work. I could get it to go down, by switching the rocker rapidly (it takes maybe 40 tries)When I stopped, then tried to lower it more, it won't. It goes up perfectly, with no alignment issues or noises. All the other winows work fine.
I pulled the panel, and pulled the switch to see if I could test it with a DVM, but the readings are strange; I don't have a pin-out for the leads, and have no idea if I'm even testing it correctly.
I searched the archives, no one seemed to ever have this problem.
It looks like the motor works fine going up, and not down. Everything seems to be tight, including the connections, and there seems to be enough lube on the toothed half-moon shaped rail.
What would be the problem here?
Also, behind the door panel, theres a small silver plastic box about the size of a pack of smokes nestled in the upper right quadrant, with an electrical connector...whats this?
Thanks in advance...

 

no sunroof and does have power windows = LX model
The box in the door you are talking about is a door lockcontol unit I believe. Put your finger on it and work the powerlock to see if you feel relays click.
Unplug the master switch, that is connector 852 pin #8 will have a Red/yellow wire going to it Pin #10 will have a Red/blue wire.When you have located those 2 pins you can continuity test the switch in both positions.
While you have the chance, with the door panel off, you can smear or spraylots of silicone in the window run channels.

 

Okay...found the correct pins, connected the meter...and I get zero resistance with the switch in the not-operating position, and about 180K ohms in either one of the operating positions. The buzzer for continuity sounds when the switch is in the non-operating position. All this says to me, the switch is closed when you're not pushing it, and open when you are. Is this normal for this type of switch? In your opinion, is the switch bad, or is it something else?
The window goes up, but not down. If you rapidly and repeatedly operate the switch, the window will eventually roll down smoothly, but if you interrupt the travel, you have to do the dance over again. All the other windows operate as designed.
What do you think?
Theres a small PC board attached to the bottom of the assembly...what is this for? It doesn't allow me to take it apart...in fact, the entire switch assembly is sealed.
Thanks...

 

On my '92, I can "Auto down" the driver's window. I can also nudge it down if I only move the switch a little. When in auto, it runs the window all the way down, then clicks the switch off. Maybe there's something wrong with that part of your circuit?

Try to roll the window down without moving the switch all the way. It might point you in the right direction.

Good Luck, and post back what you find. Most likely you'll end up with a junkyard replacement of the window switch assembly to fix it.