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EGR Valve Diagnosis - Step By Step

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Old May 8, 2013 | 01:17 PM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by Roader
The ECU tells the EGR valve to open. A lift sensor in the EGR valves tells the ECU if the EGR valve is open when it's supposed to be. So insufficient lift can be:
  • the EGR valve isn't actually opening when it's supposed to
  • the lift sensor isn't sensing that the valve is open when it actually is
  • ECU is out of its mind
  • open or shorted wiring between the ECU and the valve

I'm not a fan of shotgunning parts to diagnose, but the valve is so easy to get replace, a used OEM valve is cheap, and it might be a crappy aftermarket valve on there anyway...
Thanks Roader,

I'm going to test for continuity later on as suggested above. If there is no continuity then I will replace the valve. Hopefully, that is all that is needed. Everything else seems fine with the car so it's hard to imagine a problem with the ECM. Fingers crossed.
 
Old May 8, 2013 | 01:27 PM
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Has anyone used a Duralast EGR Valve? Are they any good? They are about $80 cheaper than Honda.
 
Old May 8, 2013 | 01:58 PM
  #13  
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Rock Auto has one for 92 bucks, not sure what shipping would be. Autozones is probably lifetime warranty?
 
Old May 8, 2013 | 03:07 PM
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Lifetime Warranty at Autozone...
 

Last edited by Restless; May 8, 2013 at 03:11 PM.
Old May 8, 2013 | 06:34 PM
  #15  
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My local U Pull & Pay:
EGR VALVE (EACH) $9.99
OEM is best for electronics IMHO. Junkyards are clogged with 6th Gen's due to crappy automatic transmissions. Lots of good engines and engine parts.
 
Old May 8, 2013 | 06:47 PM
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You should be able to check the EGR valve lift sensor. It may be shorted or open causing the insufficient lift detection.

BTW, a very nice original post.

good luck
 
Old May 9, 2013 | 08:24 AM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by Roader
My local U Pull & Pay:
EGR VALVE (EACH) $9.99
OEM is best for electronics IMHO. Junkyards are clogged with 6th Gen's due to crappy automatic transmissions. Lots of good engines and engine parts.
Never thought of that. I will be googling for local yards in my area. Anyone know of any on Long Island, Suffolk County?
 
Old May 9, 2013 | 08:30 AM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by TexasHonda
You should be able to check the EGR valve lift sensor. It may be shorted or open causing the insufficient lift detection.

BTW, a very nice original post.

good luck
Thanks TH,

I used a multimeter to check the sensor last night. Hopefully I did it right. I set the meter to 2000 Ohms and touched one probe to pin #1 and the other to pin #2. The meter first read a value of 1 and then a value of 1794. Seemed strange. Continuity would indicate a value of 0, right?. When I tested pin #1 to pin #3 I got a reading of 1. No continuity? Touching the probes together shows a value of 0.

I think I'm reaching the limits of my electrical diagnostic ability. Plus I think my cheap, free, multimeter from Harbor Freight is dead.

Time to google up some junkyards in my area.
 
Old May 10, 2013 | 08:02 AM
  #19  
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This morning on my way to work, the CEL went away. The trip odo said 250 miles driven since cleaning the EGR. Very strange. Hopefully the ECM finally reset and I'm good to go.

I'll probably wait a few more days before bringing it in for the inspection. I would hate for the CEL to reappear and have me fail emissions.
 
Old May 10, 2013 | 01:12 PM
  #20  
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The variable resistance is probably a linear wiper type. A good dose of WD40 may cure the problem if it returns.

good luck
 



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