Hey guys, first time poster here. I'm in a '94 EX Manual. Anyway, I've been having 2 issues recently. The first is with my driver's front power window. The window goes down perfectly fine but for whatever reason will not go up sometimes. I can't figure out whether it's an electrical or mechanical problem. The motor doesn't seem to turn at all and then it sporadically is able to work if I toy with the wires for a while and jiggle the window, etc., but it's kind of a crap shoot. Again, it's perfectly fine on the way down but does nothing on the way up. Main reason it sucks is because my a/c has been out, my passenger side window has been slow too, I live in Hawaii, and it's summer. haha. Also, I'm trying not to spend much on this car. Can you guys help me determine what the issue is? Thanks.

The other problem, which in relation is kind of minor is that there seems to be a power draw coming from somewhere on the circuit attached to the "back up (radio)" fuse. We checked the radio harness for frayed wires etc., but couldn't find anything. We unplugged the radio, power antenna, even the cigarette lighter and the other stuff in the area but it's still showing power being drawn. Where else can the power be drawing from on that particular circuit? What does "back up" refer to?

 

I would suggest removing the door panel and trying to clean the switches w/ contact cleaner. It may be a tricky job to disassemble and clean. I've only done this on other brand vehicles and am guessing Accords are similar. Take time and work on a white towel in well-lit room. You might want to just find a used switch panel.

You should confirm bad/dirty switch by jumpering the contacts at the window panel connector. You will need a wiring diagram to jumper the correct pins. Generally, you are connecting power to down wire at connector. It should be jumpering from Grn/Wht to red/yel wire. Jumpering power depends on the ground side of the switch (undeflected position) maintaining ground to the down circuit. Again wiring diagram will make this clear.

You can find used switches at car-part.com and ebay. I saw used switches for $60-$90.

You should download the 94-97 Accord manual from Online Manuals links in DIY forum to guide your work, particularly door panel removal. Check DIY's for additional guidance on door panel removal.

good luck

 

Google D1svF3Pmolc

That is a video on replacing a run channel. You may be able to just remove that door panel and lubricate the lower part of the run channel with silicone paste.

Go to the sticky atop of this forum called common DIY threads. There is an online manuals link, where you can get the 94 shop manual. That will show all of the components on that fuse. The ECU is one of those items. Do you have any aftermarket stuff installed on the car (stereo, alarm, etc..)? How much of a draw are you finding? Is the battery draining overnight?

 

Thanks for your responses. I'll check that out.

I didn't add anything aftermarket, but am not 100% sure what the previous owners did. Could be totally unrelated, but just prior to noticing the draw, I had pulled apart the door panel and removed the speaker, but left the wire harness there. I don't think that's what's causing the power draw, but I may have knocked something loose in the window while trying to put it back together.

When we tested the battery, it was drawing at like .3 - .4 initially. We unplugged the radio and it went down to like a .25 but we couldn't figure out why it was still drawing so much. Tried to look in the manual but couldn't find the right circuit in the diagrams. Will try to look again.

 

I would start pulling fuses to isolate the draw on the battery. Then you can start unplugging items in that circuit to see what is drawing the amps from the battery. Page 23-36 is the start of the section showing what components are protected by the fuses. (Electrical, then Power Distribution).

 

Update on the window. It's not perfect, but it runs. It's still pretty slow, but at least it goes up and down. The car IS 17 years old and over 230K miles, so I'm not expecting to go on too much longer. It just needs to run until I can afford an upgrade. . Also, I'm kind of over the power draw thing. Even though the meter shows a draw, it doesn't seem to be affecting anything else at the moment so I'll deal with it later. Thanks again.

 

What did you do to repair the window circuit?

good luck

 

I kinda did what you were mentioning in your previous post. I pulled apart the master switch, put some solution on a qtip and just went at the contacts with that. They were pretty black and gunky and it's possible that the little trigger things (yeah I don't know what those little metal pieces in the switch are called) may have been out of place. Only problem I'm having now is that the driver's side is fine, but the passenger side now has the problem, and I couldn't figure out how to get under that part of the master switch to see if that needed to be cleaned also. The window still goes up and down using the switch on the passenger door so I'm not too concerned, I just can't put it up from the driver's side.

 

Thanks, I've cleaned contacts on a Jeep Gr. Cherokee and Chevy Suburban w/ good results and thought it might work for an Accord.

good luck