Hey folks. I have a 1999 accord ex, 2.3l, automatic
first off, I was having a parasitic drain, along with the #13 (7.5a) fuse blowing when trying to start the vehicle. I also found the #46 (15a) fuse in the under hood power distribution fuse box continually blowing.
so short somewhere. So I disconnected the neg cable from the neg post of battery and put test light between the neg cable and neg post. Of course the test light lit up very bright.
let me also say that whenever I would go to hook up the neg cable to neg battery post there would be the snap, pop of sparks from the cable and battery post. Another sure sign of short.
so with test light connected and bright as ever, I started pulling fuses one at a time, trying to figure which circuit was causing short.
I pulled every fuse from under hood power distribution fuse box(except got the 100a and 50a fuses. I pulled every fuse from drivers side and passengers side fuse boxes. Still light lit as bright as ever, and if I try to connect cable back to post still pop and snap of sparks. Still a short
so I decided to unplug the 4 connectors from the under hood power distribution fuse box, thinking the light would go off. And I would plug back in one connector at a time to see which one would turn light back on. BUT, to my surprise, the light didn't go off.
So as I looked at this, the only power in the car comes from the positive battery cable. It's hooked up to the under hood fuse box. Also coming off of positive battery is a cable that runs to starter.
Coming off the under hood fuse box is a single wire that runs to the b+ of alternator. So I started by disconnecting the single wire from the b+ of the alternator. And Walla, the light went out, and I could hook up neg cable to battery without the snap and popping of sparks.
so I wanted to see if that wire had somehow became shorted to ground. But what I did was disconnect that wire from the under hood fuse box and ran my own wire by itself from the under hood fuse box to the b+ of the alternator and my issue came back.
I believe that eliminated the wire as a short and points to the alternator somehow shorting to ground.
I know is long but instructions said to say everything I did
Is there any direction you can point me? Are my testing steps even though long on the right track? Where do I go from here?
Thanks a heap. Respectfully, Richard Carson

 

The main relay and PCM are the common components/circuits protected by under-hood fuse no. 46 (15A) and driver's side under-dash fuse no. 13 (7.5A).

Although there are various areas where the short may be at, I would suggest taking a look at the wiring at Connectors C103 and C101 first.

 

I think your alternator is suspect. I'd recommend replacing with a Denso unit vs the stuff you get from the autoparts stores.

 

I'm guilty of TL;DR(Too Long; Didn't Read), as I focused on the fuses.

 

[QUOTE=redbull-1;394221]The main relay and PCM are the common components/circuits protected by under-hood fuse no. 46 (15A) and driver's side under-dash fuse no. 13 (7.5A).

Although there are various areas where the short may be at, I would suggest taking a look at the wiring at Connectors C103 and C101 first.



Thanks. The # 13. 7.5 amp fuse is in the passenger side under dash fuse box

 

As far as too long didn't read, I only went by reading the "read before posting" where it says list everything that was done. Otherwise I would have written much shorter question

 

I'd prefer more details, because too often folks leave out some important attempts at repairs that help identify the problem.

It does sound like your alternator is drawing current and needs replaced.

 

Thank you. I will be replacing alternator. I believe it's the alternator. I was just trying to get more than my opinion on the matter. Again, thanks to everyone.

 

This was my fault. Your detail was appreciated.

I have no excuse.

 

No worries. Not a biggie. I sure appreciate the insight on the fuses. Any info or advice I greatly appreciate.
Thank you