Hey guys, I've been having a few headaches in my 97 Accord lx lately. 2 days ago, I was on the highway and looked down at the dash just in time to see the speedo fall to zero and the check engine light come on. I pulled over and read the code, VSS error. I figured I could live a few days without a speedo and trip/odometer, so I ordered the part online. I haven't received it yet, so I haven't tinkered with that at all. On my way home last night, my engine started running really erratic; I was on the freeway doing about 60, and out of nowhere my tach and engine started jumping down to idle speed, up to redline, and everywhere in between. I started to change lanes, with the intent of stopping, and after about 30 seconds, the rest of my instrument cluster (tach and temp) dropped to 0 and the engine started running perfectly fine again. I pulled off the road to check fuses, and the ECU fuse in the engine bay was fine. I'm going to check the under-dash fuses as soon as I finish this post. In any case, the car got me home just fine, but I had no brake lights, no tach, temp, or speedo (I think the fuel gauge still works), no check engine light (which was throwing the code for the VSS and now isn't throwing anything), no gear selection lights on the dash, no clock, no power windows, and I had to override the brake switch to shift from Park.

The only modification I've done recently is replace the starter and install a voltmeter. Are there any electrical components or connectors in the vicinity of the starter that I could've smashed or wiggled loose in the process? For the voltmeter, I tied into cigarette plug for the voltage meter and replaced the ash tray light with the backlight for the gauge. I don't think the new gauge could've blown any fuse to cause all of these problems, because it still works.

A little history on the car, if any of this points you in any given direction. I bought the vehicle October 1, 2011 at 179xxx miles. I commute roughly 110 miles a day for school, sometimes up to 250/300 miles a day for work whenever I get work (I'm a freelance technician, so it's not steady), so I am constantly driving the car, and in the year and half I've owned it I've put over 50xxx miles on it. Since purchasing the car, I have replaced engine coolant temperature sensor, radiator, radiator hoses, rear passenger hub and bearing, air intake (AEM short ram), installed subs in the trunk (amp has direct power line to the battery with an inline fuse, and still works), and replaced the starter. I think that is all I have done...

Any thoughts are greatly appreciated, and I'm not really the most car savvy person in the world, I learn about car parts as they break and I need to replace them, so if you could word your responses so I can understand, that'd be great. Thanks!

 

No:

• brake lights
• tach
• temp
• (fuel gauge still works)
• check engine light (which was throwing the code for the VSS and now isn't throwing anything)
• gear selection lights on the dash
• clock
• power windows, and I had to override the brake switch to shift from Park

What's common?

• Cluster: underdash fuses 1, 4, 9; G101
• Exterior lights: underhood fuses 30, 32; G404 for brake lights
• VSS: underdash fuse 1, G114
• Shift interlock: underdash fuse 1, underhood fuse 30; G203

Underdash, 10 amp fuse #1 for three out of the four. I didn't dig around enough to look for clock power/grounds.

 

Thanks Roader, the #1 underdash fuse fixed most everything, the only thing I'm still missing the VSS, which I am presuming is a failure of the physical component. Would it be smart to unplug the failed VSS, is there any chance it caused the fuse to blow?

Also, the car is now throwing the code for the ELD system, but it checked out just fine, measuring the voltage on it's leads with the ignition switch on, headlights on, and with brights on.

 

VSS is a common sensor failure. I've never heard of one failing w/ a short circuit. I don't think it's related to your other electrical problems.

VSS is near the thermostat housing behind/below distributor. It is a bit tricky to access, but not terrrible. Intake must be removed.

VSS is readily available from many sources for < $20.

good luck

 

Did the electrical gremlins happen after you installed the gauge and backlight? Try disconnecting them from power if the fuse continues to blow. Maybe your amp too, for troubleshooting purposes.

 

Roader, yes the problems started after I installed the gauge. The conflict I have with the thought that the gauge blew the fuse is that the gauge still works so it's obviously on a different fuse.

So far so good, the fuse didn't blow in the 120 miles I drove today, so we shall see if it happens again.

My question is why the engine started running so erratically before I lost the instrument panel? Is there any chance that this was just a fluke as the fuse was blowing? Or do I have bigger problems? It's running fine now.

 

If this was a permanent fault, the fuse would blow instantly. Since the clock and the gear selector wiring is near when you tied into the stock wiring, double check your work. You may have an exposed wire causing the fuse to blow.

 

Hey guys, so I got the VSS in the mail, tried to install it, but the connector broke. I found a wiring diagram and made the connections, just jimmy-rigged it together, but the ECM still isn't recognizing its there (I reset the code, and the computer re-throws it). Are there any other connectors or fuses I don't know about? Additionally, the car now idles at about 2500rpm? Any thoughts?

Thanks!

 

Ok I found the high idle problem, there was pressure on the Cruise control cable. Still can't figure out the VSS problem though

 

Are you sure you got the Blk and Orn wires correctly connected. How did you bypass the connector and still connect to VSS? If you jammed wires into the VSS, this is likely reason for problem.

Suggest going to junkyard and obtaining new connector to splice to your harness.

good luck