Texas, this is the wiring I used for the VSS https://www.hondaaccordforum.com/for...wire-color-jpg

I found this wiring diagram on another thread on this site. As far as faulty connections are concerned, I'm 99.9% sure this is not the problem; I'm an electrician by trade, so I'm fairly confident I've done it right. Of course, I do plan on getting a new connector one way or another, but I want to figure out this problem. I have found that I have about 4.5 volts on the yellow lead to the VSS, and the black has continuity to ground. Does this sound about right?

In other news, I have continued to blow the #1 fuse (under dash), so I am convinced there are electrical problems somewhere. Is there anything I could have damaged while replacing my starter, or...? It is quite possible, where I live, that I have a critter chewing wires somewhere. While I am an electrician by trade, I am surely not a contortionist, so I'm wondering if it is worth pursuing this problem myself, or putting it on hold until I have the money to take it somewhere.

Thanks guys!

 

I'm looking at the shop manual and the Orn wire is to the RH side of the connector tab and blk to LH side. That is looking at the connector from behind. This is opposite your arrangement.

Note, ny diagram is confusing w/ an inverted expanded diagram from picture. I've attached the diagram, so see if you agree.

good luck

 

Texas, I tried the black and orange wires in both positions, neither work. What is the chance that I just got a bad VSS? Also, could it have anything to do with ELD that is, for some reason, throwing a code? I checked the ELD via Haynes instructions, and it checked out just fine.

 

Did you install the VSS/flywheel link that drives the VSS? It can get lost, but usually VSS comes w/ a new one.

What obd1 codes are you getting?

good luck

 

Texas, yes the VSS came with the flywheel link, and I put the new one in. Old one seemed fine.

The OBD codes are 17 and 20.

Thanks!

 

Check for 5V pulses on VSS connector w/ keyswitch in On position. If you don't have pulses, either bad VSS or faulty wiring/connector.

If checks OK, then check same wires again at ECM connector. If pulses are found, then ECM is likely fault. Substitute a used ECM and try again.

If 5v pulses are missing, look for wiring fault between ECM connector and VSS connector.

good luck

 

hey I read your post and was wondering if you knew anything about how to bypass the eld on a 2002 civic lx ive read some post about using a resistor but it don't say what ohm resistor to use do you have any ideas for me?

 

Not worth effort IMO, but there was a post somewhere on forum about this repair. Suggest also checking youtube. I don't know answer myself.

good luck

 

KHA in the audio section has a write up on the ELD.

 

Hey guys, sorry I haven't responded, I've been in and out of the country lately.

Texas, I'm planning on checking for pulses and wiring problems this weekend. Which wire should the electrical pulses be on? There is battery available on the yellow wire, will that pulse? Or is it another? Also, I've never worked with the ECM, is it fairly obvious which connector/wires go to the VSS? Also, do all three wires trace back to the ECM, or do some not?

Also, (Jerrybragg, Poorman) I have the problem with the ELD. My understanding of this component is that it just monitors electrical load and tells the alternator how much to pump out. I've also had minor idle surging problems; nothing too concerning, just annoying. I've seen other people with the same problem blaming it on the VSS, could this be it?

I've heard of people bypassing the ELD for audio systems, etc. to always keep the alternator running full out. Are there any problems or risks with this? I do usually have a fair amount of devices charging in the vehicle, as well as 1500W amp for my subs, so maybe this is a good option for me?

Thanks!