at the end of my rope 2005 Accord
#1
at the end of my rope 2005 Accord
3.0 engine. Quit running while driving. Wouldn't restart. Checked for spark-ok, fuel pressure was 60 psi, relays good, fuel injectors clicking with 12V and ground, but it will run when you spray ether into the engine as long as the ether is there, removed and checked injectors and checked for clogging-nothing. Can blow through injectors and activate them. Keys don't appear to be the problem. Any insight would be welcome at this point.
Thanks.
Thanks.
#2
Can you scan for codes on your car?
Unplug the electrical connection to the injectors and verify that you have 12V between the wire color that is the same going to each injector and a good ground with the key in the II position.
Unplug the electrical connection to the injectors and verify that you have 12V between the wire color that is the same going to each injector and a good ground with the key in the II position.
#3
Your tests confirm fuel but no spark. See wiring diagram.
Suggest first checking for power to the coil packs (same line for all). If no power check for ground control signal to the ignition relay (no ground from PCM disables relay).
If power is available, then no ground ignition signals are likely from PCM; security issue (do you have green ignition symbol?).
good luck
Suggest first checking for power to the coil packs (same line for all). If no power check for ground control signal to the ignition relay (no ground from PCM disables relay).
If power is available, then no ground ignition signals are likely from PCM; security issue (do you have green ignition symbol?).
good luck
#6
05 accord
The fuel pressure was checked with fuel pressure gauge at nearly 60psi. The voltage and ground were checked at the injectors prior to removal of injectors and again after removal. Also the injectors were checked for clicking with a mechanics stethoscope while the engine was running on ether, however only the two accessible ones were tested. The fuel rails were filled with fuel as were some of the injectors. The injectors were bench tested and were opening and fuel would pass through. I know this may sound stupid but it acts like it is not getting pressure at the injectors. I'm going to rest tomorrow and get back at it on Friday. And, oh yes, there is gas in the tank.
Thanks for the input.
Thanks for the input.
#8
Lack of fuel can be from fuel pressure, low voltage to the injectors, no signal to the injectors to open, or clogged injectors. You'll need to find out what is missing.
I'd recommend checking for codes first.
Not sure how your fuel pressure gauge is connected. For fuel pressure, is your gauge setup where your fuel rail is getting fuel to the injectors? Wondering what the pressure is when cranking the engine.
Checking for 12V on an unplugged connector is a good first step. The voltage can be lower when when the harness is connected to the injector and current is flowing. Suggest back-probing the 12V wire and testing for voltage off the back probe while cranking the engine using your volt meter and a good ground.
For signal to the injectors, a noid light connected will flash if it is getting signal. Back-probing the ground wire and using a 12V test light is also an option.
I'd recommend checking for codes first.
Not sure how your fuel pressure gauge is connected. For fuel pressure, is your gauge setup where your fuel rail is getting fuel to the injectors? Wondering what the pressure is when cranking the engine.
Checking for 12V on an unplugged connector is a good first step. The voltage can be lower when when the harness is connected to the injector and current is flowing. Suggest back-probing the 12V wire and testing for voltage off the back probe while cranking the engine using your volt meter and a good ground.
For signal to the injectors, a noid light connected will flash if it is getting signal. Back-probing the ground wire and using a 12V test light is also an option.
#9
if you are getting all the correct functions and you were driving when it happened, that almost sounds like it has to be the main engine Ground? I would test it with a fresh piece ground wire as there could be a hidden break in the line.
Or possibly;
-Key code issue not making correct contact
-Unknown Car alarm setting active
-gearshift park sensor not fully engaging. ( sticky button not releasing fully)
- Clutch safety release sensor
- bad computer sub system transponder located under Passanger side floorboard carpet.
- check that your wiring connectors are all plugge in fully and to their properly plug in location.
- tPI Sensor bad
-Map sensor?
-Cam sensor
Maybe one of the above mentioned helps you. I Just listed known possible culprits for you to consider.
Try cranking the car in neutral with foot on brake.
-possible fuel shut off switch in truck?
- bad relay
Check all of these maybe one will point to culprit
Or possibly;
-Key code issue not making correct contact
-Unknown Car alarm setting active
-gearshift park sensor not fully engaging. ( sticky button not releasing fully)
- Clutch safety release sensor
- bad computer sub system transponder located under Passanger side floorboard carpet.
- check that your wiring connectors are all plugge in fully and to their properly plug in location.
- tPI Sensor bad
-Map sensor?
-Cam sensor
Maybe one of the above mentioned helps you. I Just listed known possible culprits for you to consider.
Try cranking the car in neutral with foot on brake.
-possible fuel shut off switch in truck?
- bad relay
Check all of these maybe one will point to culprit
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