No spark with 12V going to the coil could be the igniter or the coil.

You can try some resistance tests on the coil itself, but a coil can test good, but still not work properly.

I would still check for codes. It takes a few minutes.

 

I've not gotten a single code other than P0420 cat inefficiency during my issues. I have not had that code since i replaced my coil (which had a burn mark on the back)

 

Alright, I'll give that a shot. But even with nothing coming out of the coil?

 

How do I test for codes? I believe my car is OBD1, but I don't know how to check the codes with that sort of system.

Oh I don't have an engine light on either. It turns off after about 2 seconds.

 

The igniter turn on/off the coil to generate spark. So a good coil would still give out no spark.

Go to the common diy thread on top of the gen tech help forum and open the link for checking engine codes.

 

Fished my igniter out and took it to Autozone, they tested it for me. They tested it 5 times and it passed every time. Does this now mean it's my coil?

 

No, your igniter could function fine when it’s cold, but once the car is warm and the igniter gets hot it can fail. So if they test it when the car is stalled you might have more luck in understanding if it is the igniter or not. Then again it’s hard to plan on where your car will stall…. I know this all too well.

 

If you don't wan't to waste money on a part that you aren't sure is the problem, I would go to a U-Pull-It junkyard and buy a coil and/or igniter. You would need ones from a 94-97 LX/DX accord. It shouldn't cost too much.

 

My car doesn't start at all, hot or cold. It just cranks.

My coil i'm getting is only $40, and returnable.

 

Well installed the new coil and surprise surprise there's no fire. After trouble shooting I decided to see if the rotor on my distributor was moving because I wasn't sure if I had put it back on wrong. Then I came to find out my cam wasn't spinning. Yay for broken timing belts.