engine vibration after 'mistake'
#1
engine vibration after 'mistake'
Hello again guys...
Some kind of questionable issues happened this week and I would like to know how bad it is. About two weeks ago the car would not start while I was at school but I managed to find that the issue was the clutch safety switch and so I got out a paper clip and bridged the connector which let me get home. I meant to replace the part but, as you know how life is, I have not yet got around to it.
This week was my vacation week, so I was away with family. My mother, who was still at home, needed to move the car. She does not drive manuals but I had given her a lesson a while ago and I guess she thought she remembered enough to move it. From what I understand she turned the key without pressing the clutch, and I had left the car in First. shuddering followed. She stopped after that and had her boyfriend move it, which seems to have been a success, though its really the first time anyone else has used my car.
Today I got home and decided to drive and see if there were any problems. well as soon as I started it and it had 1.5 idle revs, there was a very bad vibration from the engine. (The starter motor seemed ok, though) I let it go for about 10 seconds and after the idle speed dropped the vibration seemed to go away. I drove it around the block and the vibration did not seem to happen again. There seemed to be a soft but high-pitched noise coming from the engine, but I will have to verify that. I also restarted the engine and the vibration still did not occur again.
Does anyone know how bad the damage from this would be? Are there any tests I can do? Should I wait until the problem occurs again before considering taking it to a mechanic?
Thank you so much for taking the time to read this. I am sure I will not delay repairs again after this.
Some kind of questionable issues happened this week and I would like to know how bad it is. About two weeks ago the car would not start while I was at school but I managed to find that the issue was the clutch safety switch and so I got out a paper clip and bridged the connector which let me get home. I meant to replace the part but, as you know how life is, I have not yet got around to it.
This week was my vacation week, so I was away with family. My mother, who was still at home, needed to move the car. She does not drive manuals but I had given her a lesson a while ago and I guess she thought she remembered enough to move it. From what I understand she turned the key without pressing the clutch, and I had left the car in First. shuddering followed. She stopped after that and had her boyfriend move it, which seems to have been a success, though its really the first time anyone else has used my car.
Today I got home and decided to drive and see if there were any problems. well as soon as I started it and it had 1.5 idle revs, there was a very bad vibration from the engine. (The starter motor seemed ok, though) I let it go for about 10 seconds and after the idle speed dropped the vibration seemed to go away. I drove it around the block and the vibration did not seem to happen again. There seemed to be a soft but high-pitched noise coming from the engine, but I will have to verify that. I also restarted the engine and the vibration still did not occur again.
Does anyone know how bad the damage from this would be? Are there any tests I can do? Should I wait until the problem occurs again before considering taking it to a mechanic?
Thank you so much for taking the time to read this. I am sure I will not delay repairs again after this.
#2
Starting engine w/ clutch engaged could put some strain on motor mounts, clutch, and transmission.
Suggest inspecting front and rear motor mounts for possible damage. You can see rear mount from pax side w/ a good light. You need someone skilled w/ manual and clutch to "load" the engine by partially engaging clutch while holding car still w/ footbrake. If done correctly this will produce enough torque to displace the motor mount if its broken. Try both forward and reverse (important for rear mount).
good luck
Suggest inspecting front and rear motor mounts for possible damage. You can see rear mount from pax side w/ a good light. You need someone skilled w/ manual and clutch to "load" the engine by partially engaging clutch while holding car still w/ footbrake. If done correctly this will produce enough torque to displace the motor mount if its broken. Try both forward and reverse (important for rear mount).
good luck
#4
today it seems to have the 'clunk' at startup which most people describe as a problem with the mounts. I guess I will order the mounts and replace them later in the week.
-any problem if I still go to work with my car until they arrive?
-the hanes manual says its good to jack up the engine with a block of wood on the oil pan, but some tutorials have advised against this. Can anyone confirm that its ok?
-any problem if I still go to work with my car until they arrive?
-the hanes manual says its good to jack up the engine with a block of wood on the oil pan, but some tutorials have advised against this. Can anyone confirm that its ok?
#5
Engine removal procedure from shop manual says to support engine w/ hoist before removing engine/trans mounts. Support by oil pan is equivalent if you don't have engine hoist.
When I replaced my 94EX mounts I supported engine w/ jack. This allows mounting holes to stay aligned for new mount.
Rear mount is tough job but can be done from underneath. I've done it twice.
Loosen bolts from above and remove mount from underneath. I found it easier to remove vacuum line to rear AT mount from above before unbolting. Vac line tends to stick to mount and you'll only have one hand in play from underneath.
good luck
When I replaced my 94EX mounts I supported engine w/ jack. This allows mounting holes to stay aligned for new mount.
Rear mount is tough job but can be done from underneath. I've done it twice.
Loosen bolts from above and remove mount from underneath. I found it easier to remove vacuum line to rear AT mount from above before unbolting. Vac line tends to stick to mount and you'll only have one hand in play from underneath.
good luck
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