93 Accord LX AT

Car just purchased. I’ve put about 10 miles on it and the next morning it wouldn’t start. When I turn the key the first time, I heard a metallic click. No engine rotation. Turning the key after that and there is no sound except you can “feel” the system drawing from the battery. Things I’ve checked so far:

1) Battery…replaced (cracked) same starting symptoms as above
2) Battery Cables…. replaced
3) Used remote starter switch….just got the metallic clank from the starter but engaging the switch always gave me the
clank, not the load draw feeling from the battery
4) Starter…. tested, on the low end so I replaced it. Identical starting results as above
5) Engine seized…. Was able to move the flywheel slightly with a screw driver when I had the starter out
6) Fuses….all good
7) Shift lock solenoid is engaged and must be manually released. Don’t know if this would prevent the car from starting
or not. Key interlock system functions ok (I can still remove the key).

Questions:
1) Why am I able to engage the starter multiple times using a remote starter but only once if I use the key in the ignition?
2) If the remote starter turns on the starter motor, why isn’t the starter turning the engine?
3) Can the shift lock/key interlock system prevent the engine from starting?

Thanks, Stephen

 

That's a scary thought. You should be able to turn the flywheel with a screwdriver at the starter opening.

You should also be able to turn the engine using a socket wrench in the crankshaft pulley. Either way, you should only turn it forwards. That is, (4-cyl??) counterclockwise when viewed from the crank pulley side.

 

how slightly were you able to move the engine?

I don't know, if I've read things correctly it does sound like a seized motor. If the motor is engaging, it should turn the engine over. I would try to spin the engine with the crank bolt like JimBlake suggests.

 

I should have said 'check for engine seize"....sorry. I did this by inserting a screw driver into the fly wheel when I had the starter out and was able to move it slightly. Slightly, because of space limitations. OK, lets get my bearings correct. I'm standing at the drivers side facing all the belts. Which way should I rotate the crank?

My neighbor mentioned ignitor, distributor, etc. but even if I'm not getting a spark, shouldn't the starter turn the engine? Without a spark obviously it won't catch, but it still should turn.

 

if you hear a click when you try starting it,,,,,,,,,the issue is with the battery , the cables, the starter, loose connection
now you said you replaced the battery and cables , i am assuming all the cables are tught,,
you also said you replaced the starter did you install a honda starter???

here is what i like you to do.........first off chk the main starter cable , the one coming from the battery at the starter, make sure you got 12 volts there.. have someone try starting the car chk for voltage with a test lite at the wire going into the solenoid ( black/white )

If you got voltage there,, most likely you got a bad starter

If no voltage .. you got bad ignition switch or wiring

Another question does car have a non-factory alarm system >>???

as for engine being seized,, car was running right ?? you drove 10 miles ... no oil lite came on ?? you parked it and would not start...... Did car overheat on you by any chance?? did you drive through a water puddle?? If no to all of those questions most likely the engine is not seized at all..

 

Thanks for the info. The starter works fine in a bench test. I will try and test the cables before it gets to 108 degrees. I do have an aftermarket alarm. It is the type that a "card" is inserted into a connector to complete the starting circuit. Not sure what brand it is. There is an inline fuse to the alarm that test good. I asked an earlier question about the key interlock/shift lock system. Can a malfunction in this system (besides locking up your key and shifter) cause the engine not to start? Other answers to the conditions the last time the car was driven:
1) No overheating
2) Brand new oil
3) Engine ran smooth
4) No difficulty starting the last time the engine ran.
5) This is AZ, what's a water puddle?

 

this is also mansoon season over there is it not?? when it rains you got instant lakes ............where in AZ are you at ??
also have a shop perform a starter draw ..

 

Here's an easy way to remember, whether it's a 4-cyl or V-6, B, F, D, H, or even K-series engines. It works for every transverse-engined car I've ever worked on. From Saabs to VWs to Chevys to Fords.

Whichever side you're looking at, the engine spins the same way as the wheel/tire does when you're driving forward. So if you're at the left-front fender, looking at the belts, the left-front wheel will spin counterclockwise as you drive forward. That's the way the engine spins.

Oh yeah... your other questions.

If the coil or ignitor are bad, you don't get any spark. But the starter will still spin the engine.

The shifter interlock system will prevent the starter from running. Check to make sure the "P" lamp is lit up in the cluster.

 

Update:
1) P-lamp does light when the key is turned to the start position
2) Voltage at the battery lead on the starter is 12.5 V
3) With ignition switch turned to start, voltage at the starter solenoid is 7.4 V Where did the other 5.1 V go? I paid for 12 and I want 12
4) I think the Mesa city council passed a law forbidding monsoons from entering the city limits. I got a whole 3 drops yesterday
5) The shift lock solenoid has locked the shifter in the "park" position and must be freed by inserting a key in the slot in front of the shift

Next steps:
1) Turn the engine by hand to see if its free
2) Remove the brand new starter and have it tested

Anything else?

 

Voltage at battery posts = ??
Voltage at battery posts when switch is turned to "START" = ??

If the battery posts themselves have low voltage, then you need a new battery. Not good enough to check the voltage when nothing's turned on. If the voltage drops when the battery is delivering a load then it's going bad.

If your battery still has 11 or 12 volts when the switch is turned, then your voltage is being lost in the cables. Check for loose/dirty/corroded ends at BOTH ends of all the battery cables. You said they're new, but maybe the terminal posts are dirty or corroded. Don't forget the big ground cable from engine to body.

Work your way out from the battery posts themselves. Check voltage (when key is at 'start') at the cables near the battery. Then at the cables other ends. etc... You're trying to narrow down the location where that 5.1v is being lost.