I turned the engine by hand, it's free so my worst fear didn't happen.
I pulled the brand new starter back out and had it tested. It failed. The parts store I bought it from is now closed so I'll have to wait until Monday to exchange and try again. By the way, the battery is also brand new, but I will check the voltages as you suggest. I'll keep you posted. Thanks for all your help.

 

What a bummer. Brand new parts failing. It's happend to me too, and you don't suspect it since it's the new part, but that's how it goes I guess.

At least the motor isn't seized!

 

do yourself a favor and install a Honda factory starter ,,,,,,,,,it might cost a bit more but it will last a lot longewr and you won't have any headaches

 

I took the starter back to the parts store. They tested it and it works fine. Apparently the other store ran the wrong test program. So, I reinstalled the starter...again. The voltage between the battery terminals is 12.55 V (no load) and 12.47 V with the key in the "start" position. Are there function tests on the shift lock/key interlock, starter relay, main relay, ignition switch systems? A rehash of whats been checked so far:
1) Battery....brand new
2) Starter....checked out OK
3) Battery cables.....OK
4) Fuses.....OK
5) Engine Siezed....Nope

 

Just to make sure but when you replaced the starter did it include a new starter selenoid as well? If you're getting a click noise I'm going to guess what everyone else has been saying: Bad connection. Pull all your cables off and scrub the connecting points (for both the positive and negative terminals) with a wire brush or 80 grit sandpaper. Then make sure everything is tight.

 

Removed all cables and cleaned them with a degreaser, scrapped off surface oxide and reinstalled.
Results: No change
Measured resistance from negative terminal to chassis body: 0.25 ohms
Measured resistance from negative terminal to ground connection on valve cover: 0.27 ohms
Measured resistance from negative terminal to starter body: 0.25 ohms

When I remote start the starter outside of the car (using the car's battery) it engages
When I remote start the starter installed in the car, just the click.

 

Don't measure resistances; those are down in the noise level for multimeters that us normal mortals can afford. Measure voltage drops while trying to activate the starter.

The starter can take 100 amps, so 0.25 ohms would drop 25 volts. Not reasonable, so it's probably not an accurate measurement.

 

so if you remote start it giving power to solenoid from battery , starter will work ok,,

but if you try with the key it just clicks,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,IF so,, the starter is not the problem

I am beginning to wonder you there is a voltage drop across the AT gera positon switch ( neutral position switch.........try something.. on the left side of the console that's where the switch is located,, there is a brown plug with 2 wires going to it,, both wires are black/white.. disaconnect the plug, with a volt meter chk for battery voltage when key is on start position , with plug disconnected you should have voltage on only 1 wire...if not,, you are losing power source at ignition switch,, connectors, underdash fuse box .. ........if you got battery voltage , reconnect the plug and try the same test on the other wire, car in park or neutral,, key in the start position , if you got the same voltage then switch is ok ..if not,, you got a bad switch ,,,, to confirm it,, unplug the connector, jump the 2 wires together ,, if it cranks you found your problem.......

try and post results..

 

I'm using a Fluke 189 that I use at work. It's accurate down to the hundreth of a ohm. In fact, due to a new part we're making, I need to find one that measures to the millionth of a ohm. So much for feeding the kids this month. Anyway, I was checking the ground circuit for continuity. The resistance measurements were to show that every thing was tight. Now the idea of measuring the voltage of the ground system under load and no load conditions is something I'll try when I get home tonight. If there is a voltage drop under load of the ground circuit, it might mean I've got something shorting out.

 

I'm having a hard time finding the brown plug with two wires. I have the shift lock solenoid, the ignition switch, and integrated control unit (ICU) exposed. The schematic shows a green and a yellow wire going to the shift lock solenoid; I a yellow/black and a yellow with silver bands wire going to this solenoid, so I don't know how much I can depend on the wire schematics I'm using. Since I've got the ignition switch exposed, I'll go ahead and test it. Is my shift lock switch incorporated into the ICU? I see a yellow/black and a yellow with the silver band running into it, or am I not looking in the right place for the shift lock switch?