hey wuts up ppl , driving last night and today my rpm tach didnt seem to match the speed . for starters when i just start it up the needle doesnt even move to show idle rpm it only starts moving when im in 2nd gear , even so driving on the highway it go up for example i was in 4th gear but rpms were at 4 to 5 only going 55 the car doesnt seem to be pushing that much rpms id say maybe 2 to 3 or to 4 rpms the most. also the car does have new clutch. Before the tach started acting up i did a test to check the clutch , going like 25 30 mph if shift to 5th gear and floor it the rpms were at 2 to 3, i gained more speed than rpms so sure that clutch is good. But at times shifting from first to second is good but shifting to third it grinds a lil but does shift into third. If anyone has ideas please reply . thanks

 

Tell us more. For instance, is this an Accord? What year/trim?

Erratic tach can be caused by ignition problems; coil, wires, plugs, etc or faulty ignitor. Any starting, missing, or other drivability symptoms.

It could also be a failing rpm panel gauge.

goodluck

 

oh yeah its an 1990 Honda Accord AEX also forgot to mention the car started but stalled out , tried cranking it but wouldnt start . i poped hood double checked connections and started it right up. could it be caused by the throttle postioning sensor

 

Everyone always suspects throttle position sensor, but it is rarely a problem. More likely it's ignition problems. Plugs, wires, rotor, distributor cap would be a good place to start if these are as old as the car. This may also cure the erratic rpm indications.

Check for spark when no-start occurs (timing light flashes indicate presence of spark or not), or use a spare plug into one lead grounded to engine to visually check for spark. No spark could be ignitor or coil.

If spark is good, then Main Fuel Relay is a frequent cause for Honda no-start, intermittent start.

good luck

 

well since i just got the car for 600 and 200k ima do a tune-up including spark plugs , spark plug wires , distributor , valve cover gasket , pcv , any other suggestions?
also any ideas bout hard third shift problems or could it be cause its new clutch ?

 

At 200k miles, it's likely overdue for 2nd timing belt and balance shaft belt. Water pump should be replaced w/ belts. Replace rear balance shaft cover oring (frequent oil leak site).

Valves may need adjusting, if there's valve rattle w/ car fully warmed. A little cold valve noise is OK.

Examine cooling hoses and radiator for leaks. Radiators rarely last; plastic parts become brittle.

AC may need significant work to restore if it's not running; usually new orings on all connections, including expansion valve on evaporator, new receiver/drier, compressor shaft seal, and retrofit to use R134a. More to it than I've described. If you're interested, I would suggest going to ackits.com and read their retrofit instructions.

good luck

 

yeah the timing belt is what im wanting to do with the water pump and other belts, how much you think thatll run 400, 500 bucks, i just want it to last so maybe next year ill put in an h22 vtec in it. other than that car runs fine no odd sounds coming from engine. A/c works but barely. I saw somewhere when u change the timing belt i heard its recommend to shave the gears

 

You can buy a timing belt kit on ebay for $115 (see link below). Kit is complete except for rear balance shaft cover oring (from Honda). Labor will be 5-6 hrs at shop rates. If you diy, you save the labor.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/New-H...ayphotohosting

Why transplant an engine of dubious origin for a known good engine?

I have no idea what "shaving the gears" means.

If AC is original, the expansion valve orings are likely leaking and possibly compressor shaft seal (look for ring of oil/dirt around compressor clutch).

good luck

 

I just finished doing a tune - up on the 90 CB7 from wires , spark plugs , valve cover gasket, pcv valve, distributor, and cap car runs great but the rpms still dont seem to match the cars. the needle just seems lanky it'll just got up n down and not follow the engine , i also noticed the rpm tach wont go higher than 5 rpms even though i know its not that high , any ideas?

 

Remove distributor cap. Check the four wires on the ignition control module are on the posts clean and tight. Also check that the wires aren't pinched or haven't been repaired poorly. One of those wires sends the signal to the tachometer.

BTW, do you mean the tach won't go over 5 rpms or 5K?