This is the easiest way to jump voltage to the fuel pump.

Plug in the connector in the trunk.

Unplug the main relay electrical connector. Jump the red/wht pin to the blk/yel pin using a piece of wire. Turn the key to the II position. That should keep the fuel pump turned on the whole time the key is in the II position.

 

Okay, PA, so if I'm understanding you correctly, once I jump those two and turn that key, then the pump should whirr/sound the ENTIRE time that key is turned, right? So at that point, if I wanted to confirm, I could actually get out of the driver's seat and go back to the trunk and physically listen, right?

 

Good. That means that the wring to the fuel pump is good.

Test the other relay inputs per the FSM. Grounds and power, obviously, but equally important is the two-second signal from the ECU. See FSM for the pinout. The ECU signal energizes the relay, and the relay powers the fuel pump.

 

If the red/wht wire has 12V with the key in the II position, the fuel pump should turn on and you can go back and listen for it.

 

Okay, just an update. I jumped those two wires (as above); got CEL light steady on, blinking D4, and yes, could detect that the fuel pump runs with the key in the "II" position. Quieter than I thought it would be, but perceptible from both in the driver's seat and also when I listened through the fuel intake. So that's where I stand at this point -- apparently a good fuel pump and a good wire harness/connection/wire connection TO the fuel pump. I will try and walk down the code pull; hadn't really strongly pursued that yet. In the meantime, any other suggestions or questions??

Thanks in advance.

 

By the way, what's to stop me from at least TRYING to start it and see if I can run it a bit? I'd like to, if nothing else, move it around a bit to keep the tires from dry rotting, get the fluids to circulate a bit, etc.. Opinions?

 

i doubt you will be able to. what CEL codes are you getting?

 

Plug everything back in. Pull the 7.5 amp backup/radio fuse for a minute (this will clear all codes). Turn the key to the II position. Wait for the check engine light to turn off, then try to start the car.

After you tried this, then check for codes. It takes 5 minutes to check for codes.

 

Alright, PA, I'll do that real quick, then pull the codes. We'll see what we get. Thanks for all your help!

 

By the way, PA, when you say plug everything back in, do you mean MFR, everything? Right now I've got that jumper wire in there because that's the only way I know (for sure) that the fuel pump is running.