RE: Big Problem - Front Brake pad replacement
 

Get a ruler & start measuring everything. Is it possible you have a knuckle, hub, rotor,& caliper from a sedan on only ONE SIDE?? That would be bizarre...

Or maybe mismatched knuckes, but thecalipers & rotors are all sedan? A sedan caliper bolted to a wagon knuckle might position the caliper too far away from center. That way the rotor doesn't extend all the way into the caliper.

RE: Big Problem - Front Brake pad replacement
 

Go ceramic!

RE: Big Problem - Front Brake pad replacement
 

well I've done some checking and I believe I need to replace the disc rotors ony. Any reason I shouldn't use a Durlast from AutoZone, $17 each?

RE: Big Problem - Front Brake pad replacement
 

you can use them but do not be surprised if they are not very ( DURA) BLE and ( LAST ) very long before they get warped ..,, I would spend a few more bucks and at least get a set of BREMBOs.

RE: Big Problem - Front Brake pad replacement
 

I will

update - broken bearing
 

well, I took off the rotors and the right side (front) bearing came apart. Any chance I can get this piece of broken bearing race off my hub?

[IMG]local://upfiles/6579/2AE12E67A11646878CE6AB0982EFB09F.jpg[/IMG]

RE: update - broken bearing
 

I noticed that where the bearing seperated, there is a machined lap. Are these things meant to be cleaned, rebuilt and replaced? I'm pretty sure the other side was a sealed unit (it's back on the car w/the new rotor).

RE: update - broken bearing
 

No, I don't think they're meant to be cleaned & reassembled.

RE: update - broken bearing
 

finally got the brakes right, right sized rotors etc. Removing the rotors by instructions found in search resulted in useless bearings. To be expected.
I think I might want to bleed the system. Anyone know if a Motive power brake bleeder will do the ABS modulator without turning on the motor? or should I follow the instructions in my cheap haynes/Chiltons manual, then bleed the wheels with the power bleeder? thanks in advance

RE: update - broken bearing
 

Motive works nice for the main brakes. Do that first, then bleed the ABS. The ABS can pressurize itself, so you don't need the Motive bleeder.

Get a hose that fits good on the ABS bleeder & runs into a bottle. Keep it under control & open the bleeder slowly, not very far at all. If the hose pops off, there's enough pressure to cut your skin.

Open ABS bleeder only barely enough to flow. You'll only get a couple ml. Close it as soon as it the flow stops.

Make sure the ABS reservoir is full. Start the engine & let the ABS modulator pump up. (I don't think the pump will run unless the engine actually starts?)

Bleed some more fluid out. Keep repeating until all air bubbles are gone. DON'T let the reservoir get empty or you'll have to start over.