Yes, I did get this fixed finally. Thanks for all of your help. I ended up taking it to a specialist. He had to put a new ECM and a new Main Relay in. After that it has been working great for about 2 months. I guess the ECM and relay that I had used were not communicating correctly since they were used.

 

Thanks for giving us an update - that was cool of you

 

It's good when you members come back in and let us know that you now have a fix..

WheelBrokerAng

 

Yes....it is a lack of fuel...when u hear the fuel pump kick in, the car starts. When the key is turned to the on position and u do not hear the pump, u can bet ur last dollar its not going to start.

 

Ok, where do we want to start the testing? I'm going to "guess" - never spend money on a guess - it is either the main realy or the ecu.......

 

Hey guys...whats an ecm/ecu (engine control module/unit)? Also where is it located and how do u test it?

 

Can you add your car info to your signature....I've forgotten what we are working on.

If you test the inputs to the main relay you will figure out if you are getting a signal from the ECU. If not then you will need to test it and the wires.

Suggest you get a manual, see the sticky at the top of this section - Common DIY Threads where you can get one.

 

I know there has been no activity on this post in a while. And glad Josh got the problem sorted.

Over the last month my 1994 Honda Accord EX developed this same issue.

I am writing not so much to ask for help, but to share what I have found after diagnosis. Maybe it will help someone with their diagnosis.

Symptom is when cold out the ECU takes 30-60 seconds to send the initial ground signal to the fuel pump portion of the main/fuel relay (green/black wire). The colder it gets the longer it takes.

I found that once the ECU sends the initial ground signal to the pump part of the relay, it activates the fuel pump for 2 seconds, the CEL will go out, and the vehicle will start. Otherwise cranks and is a no start as previously described on this board.

I have deemed the relay good, as it cannot perform its task until the ECU tells it to, and when it does get the signal finally, it works as I feel it is designed.

I opened up the ECU to look for cold solder joints and found none that are evident.

While apart I put a small heater by the ECU to warm it up to about 100f. Once warmed up the symptom went away totally. Let it cool off and symptom returned. Repeated this procedure about 5 times and results were the same each time.

This may be opposite for those experiencing this when too hot...? Try cooling the ECU and see if it starts working normally again, and slightly heat soak it to 100-110f for a while and see if the problem returns.

I am condemning possibly a transistor or capacitor on the board as becoming temperature sensitive on whether it delays or not. Cold=delayed relay ground, warm=not delayed.

I will be replacing the ECU sometime this week or next and will reply with the results after replacement and further testing.

 

Interesting...
I was initially going to question whether the delay came from the ECU or somewhere upstream in the circuit (flaky ignition switch is not uncommon). But you ruled that out with the heater - nice idea.

 

I too was wondering if there was another reason for the delay. Below is a more detailed description of my diagnosis...

After looking at the wiring diagram, internally in the relay there is a bridge between terminals 6 (ecu power) and the + side of the pump relay coil with a resistor and a diode between. The other side of the pump relay coil is terminal 1, and needs to be grounded to close the relay contact at terminal 4.

I tested this by first disconnecting the ecu, then supplying a ground on relay terminal 1 to energize the coil and close the contact, which it did and forced the fuel pump to run. Relay test = ok.

From there, with ecu plugged back in, I then put a dvom on relay terminal 1 to test, and then after that to ecu terminal a7 to rule out a harness issue. At both ends with cold ecu dvom registered roughly battery voltage which is what was flowing through the pump relay coil, and after 30-60 seconds, it registered a ground for 2 seconds, then roughly battery voltage again. Then I cranked it over and went to ground again and started. With a warm ecu the ecu supplied the initial ground for 2 seconds right away.

Since the grn/blk wire isnt shown to go anywhere else, it cannot have a ground supplied from anywhere else but the ecu.

Conclusion is an ecu problem. Since the car has over 200,000 miles I will also put a relay in it for preventative measures.

After ecu replacement, I will post back. Take care!