i found an 93 h22 vtec but the guy said the crankshaft pulley bolt snapd off....how easy is this going to be to fix? and he wants 350 for it which sounds pretty good to me....

 

I would imagine it would need a new crankshaft if the crankshaft pulley bolt has been snapped off. I don't think a new crankshaft would be too cheap when you include the installation.

 

It's possible that the stock pulley can be removed and the bolt drilled so an extracter can take it out, but that might not be possible in which case I agree with 00Accord that you'd need a new crank or at least have to pull the engine to work the bolt out.

That really sucks!

 

if it needs a new ( different ) crank , you got to replace all the main and rod bearings as well .$$$$$ . for those i would not install used parts ..

 

I'd be very interested to know just exactly how that bolt snapped. Did he tell you?

Watch the guy's facial expression closelyas you tellhim thatyou'll gladlypay him the $350 AFTER he removes theshaft of thebolt from the crank. Facial expression = priceless.

 

In principle it might not be that bad. Once the harmonic balancer is removed, the bolt tension is gone. Howver, if it was cross threaded or damaged threads that caused the bolt to bind, no way will it be removed w/ an easy-out. This bolt is a really high-quality machine bolt. I've put closed to 1000 ft-lbs on a couple and no problem. A very high torque would be necessary to shear in torsion.

I think I would leave this engine alone. See car-part.com for used engines near your location.

good luck

 

yea im curious to on how it broke....im figuring he was racing. my girl friend saidher ex boyfreinds broke on his gsr when he was racing. but for as far as a new crank and stuff, i pland on rebuilding the thing anyway withforged pistons and new rods, etc. thats why i was looking for one thats mesd up. but ill try carpart.com.....thanks guys

 

I know these are two different situations but I had a lug BOLT break in a M Benz, I was in the military so I hired a military machinist since he had access to very sharp drill bits, he used my portable compressor and air drill. While drilling from a small hole to a larger hole, the heat had broken the stud inside loose and the drill bit spun the broken piece right out in about 10 minutes while on the third bit size. Yes we were using left hand bits and a reversable drill, worked great and we both got paid that day.

If this guy can save your crank and just drill it out then you can have the attitude of, how much did you save by paying him his price compared to a rebuild or another engine, see if he will agree to an additional agreement, a lower price if the engine knocks when put back together and fully warmed up in his presents.

 

Why woulda crank pulley bolt break"while racing"- as opposed to any other time or place? For example, did the crank pulley get struck when the car was involvedin a crash while racing, breaking off the head of the pulley bolt?

It is possible that the breaking off of the head of the bolt "broke loose" the threaded shaft inside the crank, somaybe it is possible to remove the broken shaft. Here's what I'd try if I had a welder handy.
1. Remove the crank seal.
2. Obtain a hardened nut whose threaded hole diameteristhe sameasthe diameter of the threaded hole in the crankshaft.
3. Obtain a 3/4"-long piece of thin-wall steel tubing whose OD is very slightly smaller than the ID of the threaded hole in the end of the crank. At one end of the tube taper the thickness of the wall to a point so that the outside of the wall is the tip of the point.
4. Place the "sharpened" end of the tube tightlyagainst the broken surface of the bolt shaft that is inside the crank.
5. Using a thin welding rod, slowly and carefully weld the inside endof the tube to the old threaded shaft and then "backfill" the tube completelywith weld. At this point the weld-filled tubewill hopefullybe protuding from the end of the crankshaft.
4.Make an oversize "washer"out of some protective welding cloth and place it over the tube, against the end of the crank. (This will prevent anything from welding to the crank.)
5. Hangthe newnutover the tube.
6. Nowweld thetube to the inside of the nut by completely filling the space between the hole of the nut and the outside of the tube.Now you've got what is essentially a completebolt, with anew head, with a loosecloth washer between the head of the bolt and the crank.
7.WIth the end of the crankshaftstillpretty hot,put an ice cube on the nut to cool it off rapidly (to get the bolt shaft to perhapsshrink slightly inside the still-hotcrankshaft).
8. Immediately put a socket wrench on the nut and try to turn out the newly-formed bolt. Obviously, try to turnit out using the least amount of torque. If that doesn't work, I'd try avery longburst with a veryweakimpact wrench.Then I'dstep up the force gradually.

If the threaded shaft will not budge and the nut breaks off, forget about that engine.

(After thenut and tubeare obtained, trying out the aboveprocedure will likely take less time than it took me to write it.)