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Hard to start cold.

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  #1  
Old 01-27-2014, 05:35 PM
seday1029's Avatar
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Default Hard to start cold.

I have a '95 Honda Accord 2.2L, Auto. Hard to start cold. Engine cranks, spits, sputters, & pops like it's trying to fire. Hold gas pedal to the floor while cranking and it will finally start. When it starts I have to keep it running with gas pedal until it clears up & stops smoking. (Like it's flooded) Once it clears out in about 30-45 seconds, car runs great & can drive it anywhere and when you come out it starts right up. If I let it sit a couple hours until cold again does the same thing all over. I've checked the spark & it is getting spark when it does this. Any suggestions ?
 
  #2  
Old 01-28-2014, 09:00 AM
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What is condition and replacement history of key ignition parts; plugs, wires, rotor, distributor cap?

Is CEL (check engine light) on? Does CEL come on when starting and go off? If CEL is on, get codes and post them.

good luck
 
  #3  
Old 01-28-2014, 09:16 AM
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FIT valve. This does the same thing as open the throttle during start up and warm up. When you start up the car does it immediately go down to 1000 or 500 rpm or does it go up to 1500 and stay there a few minutes?

What you can do to test the FITV is run the car with the intake pipe off and feel the lower hole inside the throttle body. If there is air going into it then your FITV is working.
 
  #4  
Old 01-28-2014, 08:24 PM
Join Date: Feb 2013
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I am new to Honda's so take this for what it is worth,
I started my 92 Accord today with temp at -17 F.
Turn key to run, wait 10 seconds, turn to start and after 6-7 revolutions I floor it.
Now it starts and I let up on gas immediately, if it does not continue to run
I let it turn over 3-4 more revolutions and now it starts and idles normally.
There could be some problem but I am not going to try to figure it out till it gets
warmer or won't start at all. Good Luck!
 
  #5  
Old 01-28-2014, 10:58 PM
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I would replace any maintenance items that are due. The distributor cap, distributor rotor, and/or the spark plugs. If you have OEM wires, they seem to last forever. For the plugs, only use NGK ZFR5F-11 plugs that most parts stores carry. I typically suggest getting the cap and rotor from honda, because they are not that much more expensive at the dealer.

You may want to check for engine and transmission codes. See the common diy thread on top of the gen tech help forum. There is a link in there on how to do this.
 
  #6  
Old 02-03-2014, 05:10 PM
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No CEL at any time. Plugs, Cap, Rotor, & Wires all fairly new. When starting cold once you get it cleaned out to run normal it does run on fast idle for a minute or so then dies down to normal. I don't drive it often because I have a company vehicle I drive every day. Temperatures here were warmer this weekend (50-60 degrees) and the car started perfectly every time. Is there something that effects very cold temp. starting ?
 
  #7  
Old 02-03-2014, 05:10 PM
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All genuine Honda ignition parts and NGK plugs too.
 
  #8  
Old 02-03-2014, 07:27 PM
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if the temps are getting below freezibg(32 degrees) u could have water condensation in your tank that is freezing ... drop in a couple bottles of isoheet in your tank
 
  #9  
Old 02-04-2014, 06:44 PM
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I did consider the water in the gas or possibly the gas going bad in the tank, but wouldn't it run bad all the time ? To get it to start I have to hold the gas pedal on the floor and when it does start it acts like a carburator car thats flooded. Clean it out with the gas pedal for about 30-45 seconds and the car runs perfect, no miss or hesitation at all.
 
  #10  
Old 02-04-2014, 10:51 PM
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Here is a simple test. Next time you try to cold start the car, turn the key to the II position, but do not try to start the car. Wait until the check engine light finishes its bulb check (turns on for about two seconds), then turn the key off. Repeat this four times, then try to start the car. Let us know what happens.
 


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