HAVING A NIGHTMARE! 04 Honda Coupe ex v6
#1
HAVING A NIGHTMARE! 04 Honda Coupe ex v6
I need some advice! There are several things hitting me at once and trying to figure out if its worth putting up with it
The Car: 2004 Accord Coupe EX V6 123,000 on the odometer third owner. Bought it less than half a year ago for $4000. They said they replaced the clutch and trans motor mounts. Has DC CAI and HID bulbs. Also, its lowered but i'm not sure how many inches or what kind of lowering kit. Following are my problems
1. Smog wont pass because system is not ready. Smog shop told me to drive the car for like 100 miles and bring it back. I still havent returned yet.
2. The Car vibrates pretty bad if i don't engage first and reverse in a particular way. Feels kinda like it chokes. Every other gear is smooth.
3. Car idle vibration is noticeable, kinda annoying but not jolty
4. When i turn on the A/C the car vibrates kinda violently
5. I noticed yesterday my rear right tire looks kinda slanted like camber but not that much. Just enough to tell that its not straight
6. i turn the key to power without starting the car, there is clicking kinda under the steering that last like 30 secs. Sounds kinda electric or something. not knocking but more like a loud clock ticking.
7. On highway, hitting 75-80mph on 6thgear feels rough. The car shakes more than usual when driving
Am i overthinking some of these and are they easy fix or do i have serious problem that i should maybe sell the car?
thanks i appreciate it in advance
The Car: 2004 Accord Coupe EX V6 123,000 on the odometer third owner. Bought it less than half a year ago for $4000. They said they replaced the clutch and trans motor mounts. Has DC CAI and HID bulbs. Also, its lowered but i'm not sure how many inches or what kind of lowering kit. Following are my problems
1. Smog wont pass because system is not ready. Smog shop told me to drive the car for like 100 miles and bring it back. I still havent returned yet.
2. The Car vibrates pretty bad if i don't engage first and reverse in a particular way. Feels kinda like it chokes. Every other gear is smooth.
3. Car idle vibration is noticeable, kinda annoying but not jolty
4. When i turn on the A/C the car vibrates kinda violently
5. I noticed yesterday my rear right tire looks kinda slanted like camber but not that much. Just enough to tell that its not straight
6. i turn the key to power without starting the car, there is clicking kinda under the steering that last like 30 secs. Sounds kinda electric or something. not knocking but more like a loud clock ticking.
7. On highway, hitting 75-80mph on 6thgear feels rough. The car shakes more than usual when driving
Am i overthinking some of these and are they easy fix or do i have serious problem that i should maybe sell the car?
thanks i appreciate it in advance
#2
You will have to do some inspecting/diagnosis for each point. Here are my suggestions for each issue.
1. Not sure why the system is not ready. Was any work done on the car before you went for testing? Were codes cleared right before to pass testing?
2-4. For vibrations, check the engine/transmission mounts for cracked/damaged rubber. The front motor mount is vacuum controlled to make the make the mount rigid/relaxed depending on the running condition/engine load. Check the vacuum hose to the mount and follow it to the control solenoid.
5. Put the back of the car on jackstands and remove the tire that is not lined up. Look for damaged bushings on the control arms or possibly bent control arms. Inspect the sub-frame.
6. You may have to remove the plastic panel under the steering wheel to figure out what component is clicking before investigating further.
7. This could be a transmission issue, but I'd repair/rule out the mounts first. Unbalanced tires are a possibility too. You may want to rotate them and see if the vibration moves, changes, or possibly goes away.
1. Not sure why the system is not ready. Was any work done on the car before you went for testing? Were codes cleared right before to pass testing?
2-4. For vibrations, check the engine/transmission mounts for cracked/damaged rubber. The front motor mount is vacuum controlled to make the make the mount rigid/relaxed depending on the running condition/engine load. Check the vacuum hose to the mount and follow it to the control solenoid.
5. Put the back of the car on jackstands and remove the tire that is not lined up. Look for damaged bushings on the control arms or possibly bent control arms. Inspect the sub-frame.
6. You may have to remove the plastic panel under the steering wheel to figure out what component is clicking before investigating further.
7. This could be a transmission issue, but I'd repair/rule out the mounts first. Unbalanced tires are a possibility too. You may want to rotate them and see if the vibration moves, changes, or possibly goes away.
#3
"Readyness codes" aren't as simple as just driving some distance. You have to get the specific conditions to happen. Did they tell you WHICH readiness code wasn't set?
https://www.hondaaccordforum.com/for...s-codes-28313/
https://www.hondaaccordforum.com/for...s-codes-28313/
#4
"Readyness codes" aren't as simple as just driving some distance. You have to get the specific conditions to happen. Did they tell you WHICH readiness code wasn't set?
https://www.hondaaccordforum.com/for...s-codes-28313/
https://www.hondaaccordforum.com/for...s-codes-28313/
This is the result and he said to drive it for 100 miles. SHould i go to another shop for second opinion?
Last edited by 04AccordExV6coupe; 02-12-2016 at 05:18 PM.
#5
You will have to do some inspecting/diagnosis for each point. Here are my suggestions for each issue.
1. Not sure why the system is not ready. Was any work done on the car before you went for testing? Were codes cleared right before to pass testing?
2-4. For vibrations, check the engine/transmission mounts for cracked/damaged rubber. The front motor mount is vacuum controlled to make the make the mount rigid/relaxed depending on the running condition/engine load. Check the vacuum hose to the mount and follow it to the control solenoid.
5. Put the back of the car on jackstands and remove the tire that is not lined up. Look for damaged bushings on the control arms or possibly bent control arms. Inspect the sub-frame.
6. You may have to remove the plastic panel under the steering wheel to figure out what component is clicking before investigating further.
7. This could be a transmission issue, but I'd repair/rule out the mounts first. Unbalanced tires are a possibility too. You may want to rotate them and see if the vibration moves, changes, or possibly goes away.
1. Not sure why the system is not ready. Was any work done on the car before you went for testing? Were codes cleared right before to pass testing?
2-4. For vibrations, check the engine/transmission mounts for cracked/damaged rubber. The front motor mount is vacuum controlled to make the make the mount rigid/relaxed depending on the running condition/engine load. Check the vacuum hose to the mount and follow it to the control solenoid.
5. Put the back of the car on jackstands and remove the tire that is not lined up. Look for damaged bushings on the control arms or possibly bent control arms. Inspect the sub-frame.
6. You may have to remove the plastic panel under the steering wheel to figure out what component is clicking before investigating further.
7. This could be a transmission issue, but I'd repair/rule out the mounts first. Unbalanced tires are a possibility too. You may want to rotate them and see if the vibration moves, changes, or possibly goes away.
#6
Your printout shows the Cat test as being "not ready". That's the first item in the post that I linked. The information from the shop manual gives a few conditions that have to be met, like coolant temperature being warmed up, and driving some stop & go & some cruising.
The difference between "just drive 100 miles" vs. meeting those specific conditions is kinda silly. I suppose you can drive 100 miles by only taking short trips which never warm up the coolant, but that's not very likely. You almost have to go out of your way to avoid satisfying the specific conditions. But I thought it would be helpful to give the explanation.
If you've installed one of those goofy "power chips" that simply modify the ECT sensor signal, that might prevent it from being set "ready".
The difference between "just drive 100 miles" vs. meeting those specific conditions is kinda silly. I suppose you can drive 100 miles by only taking short trips which never warm up the coolant, but that's not very likely. You almost have to go out of your way to avoid satisfying the specific conditions. But I thought it would be helpful to give the explanation.
If you've installed one of those goofy "power chips" that simply modify the ECT sensor signal, that might prevent it from being set "ready".
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