My Honda is a 97 Accord EX with approximately 154K miles. I parked it for a year and now am in the process of "rejuvenating" it which has turned me into somewhat of a weekend mechanic. Over the past few weeks, I have wrestled with valve gaskets and grommets till the wee hours of the morning, replaced my catalytic converter, manually cleaned my EGR valve and intake manifoild of carbon deposits, replaced the thermostat along with radiator hoses, and NOW my heater appears it will be the next project coming up /sigh

This may be a multipart issue. Here is what happens when I turn my heater on: For one, the blower motor only works when you turn it on high and then it's a bit loud but blowing like a champ. I hear this is an issue of the motor (noisy) and resistor switch (can't set to lower setting) needing replacing. I have done neither yet because even when the car has warmed up, I don't feel any warm air. On a warmer day I can feel a little warm air. On a cold day (like today) forget it.

From the information I have gathered, my resistor switch is what regulates the lower settings of my heater/AC, otherwise it will only function on High. My blower motor may be noisy but it's still blowing plenty hard. Someone told me to check my heater valve, maybe it is stuck. ...Not quite sure where this is just yet but I will check that before the next step which has me hesitant:

...I saw a video on Youtube, some guy named Eric the Car Guy, demonstrate flushing out a heater core. That looked so messy but it appeared to be basically a backwash. If my heater valve turns out to be fine, should this be my next step in order to get it operational? If I can just get some warm air blowing out somehow, I'll gladly replace the resistor switch and blower motor. I just don't feel it is necessary just yet until I actually diagnose and solve the main issue. In your opinions, have I missed something before I begin this project?

 

A common problem is a cracked temp ****. Pull the **** off and try turning the shaft with a pliers. The heater valve is on the passenger side under the hood, close to the firewall, installed in-line with one of the two ~1" lines coming out of the heater core. Have someone turn the temp shaft and look to see if the valve lever moves.

 

Heater valve is on the firewall almost directly behind distributor, but lower. The valve is actuated by a push/pull wire that you can manipulate by hand. I think all the way forward is off and all the way rearward is open. Valve should move easily.

It may be that actuating wire is incorrectly tied to adjustment linkage on the heater box.

good luck

 

It seems I made this issue too complicated. I got up this morning and located my heater valve while taking note of it's current position. My temperature **** is cracked so I pulled it off and then turned the shaft thing with pliers. It turned. I then checked the position of the heater valve and noticed it had moved in the direction of what appeared to be towards the vehicle. I started the car up and a few minutes later I had heat! Thank you so much for pointing out my oversight.

It appears I will still need to replace the blower motor since it sounds like it is trying to eat me and my resistor switch since it will only run on high but that's way better than driving around uncomfortable. This car has turned into somewhat of a project and so far I am very much enjoying it and the knowledge I have gained. Thanks again.

 

Glad you got it fixed. Cheapskate that I am, I just epoxied the cracked (k)*** shaft and wrapped a noose of bailing wire around it. Been working fine for over a year now.

When the blower only works on high it usually means that the blower resistor is burned out. Good pic:

https://www.hondaaccordforum.com/for...-module-32124/

 

New ***** are available on ebay at reasonable prices or you can repair yours as suggested. I repaired using epoxy re-inforced w/ ripstop nylon scrap. It's held for years. If wire is very hard to turn, you may experience another failure.

good luck