СС7 1993 АКПП 2,0ils VIN: SHHCC76600U005230
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The in city fuel consumption is 21liter per 100km with quite a slow ride( almost not using a gas pedal. The highway fuel consumption is 15 liters per 100 km with 90-100km/h speed. Such a level of consumption has been bothering me for 2 years already and during the previous month I took some measures: replaced the plugs, wires, coil, distributor's cap, slider, cleaned all contacts, checked all sensors,set the ignition strobe,changed oil, replaced lambda (Denso)
As a result compression is 10 points, the pressure in the fuel rail has been measured by the service guys and they said OK, I have read the whole forum,did my best to follow all the tips and recommendations, but there is no change with my situation except from becoming a little bit poor and here is the predictable question: what to do?
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Собственно расход по городу составляет 21л/100км при тошнотворной езде, на педальку не давлю вообще, если разгонюсь до светофора еду накатом.
По трассе при скорости 90-100кмч расход составляет 15л/100км
Такой расход у меня уже 2 год, как я взял аппарат и меня это основательно достало.
что уже было сделано, в том месяце: замена свечей, проводов, катушка, крышка трамблера, бегунок, чистка всех контактов, проверка всех датчиков, выставил зажигание стробоскопом, замена масла, замена лямбда (денсо), компрессия 10 очков, давление в топливной рампе мерили на сервисе сказали в норме, перечитал весь форум, все советы и рекомендации сделал, кроме того как потратил кучу денег, результата нет.
вопрос, что делать ?

 

вверх!
up!

 

This forum is largely US based and most posters use Imperial units; converting from metric might elicit a bigger response.

• City: 21 liters/100 km = 11mpg
• Hwy: 15 liters/100 km = 16mpg

What is the resistance of the ECT with a warm engine?

 

The temperature sensor in a warm engine 210 Ohm, as the cooling resistance increases. With the metric system, I certainly never thought of

Датчик температуры на прогретом двигателе 210 ом, по мере остывания сопротивление увеличивается. С метрической системой я конечно не подумал

 

I think that's about right for a warm ECT.What is "10 points" in PSI? Do you know the actual fuel pressure measured?

 

Some things to check:

1) leaks between fuel injector rail and fuel injectors. A leak here is usually detectable by smell or feel (cool due to evaporation).

2) Fuel line leak - in locations where salt is used on roads, pinholes in fuel lines can develop. Again smell and inspection by hand are required to locate.

3) Fuel Pressure Regulator (on fuel injector rail). Pull vacuum reference line and sniff for gasoline smell. If so, FPR diaphragm is ruptured and allowing fuel to bypass injectors to engine.

4) Inspect for catalytic converter blockage (not sure if you have a converter). Check by observing vacuum performance on start/idle. Initially normal (18-21 in hg) and declining to < 5 in hg as idle stablizes.

10 is likely units of KPa x 100 =~ 145 psi. Quite low and may be part of reason for poor performance. The readings should nominally be about 180 psi (12.5 kpa x 100) or higher and max difference of about 2 kpax100. Service limit is 9.31 kpax100 or 135 psi.

Vacuum gauge readings can tell a lot about engine performance. See following link and youtube video by realfixesrealfast.

BAT Auto Technical-Professional mechanics giving advice-An Educational Site w/ OBD2 Trouble Codes and Technical info & Tool Store.

good luck