Help with my 2000 Honda Accord please!
#1
Help with my 2000 Honda Accord please!
Hello,
I am looking for some help. I have a 2000 Honda Accord 4 door, 4 cyl. manual. I have about 220,000 miles. I bought this car brand new, it has been a awesome car! The only major thing I have had done to it is the clutch about 4 years ago. Anyway it just started acting weird, it stalls mostly when I stop, or slow down to turn, almost like when the rpm's go down thats when it wants to die. It starts right back up but now it is doing it everytime I stop the car at a light or stop sign. I took it to Oil Can Henry's to hook it up to get a code and the codes that came up were P1166 and P1167 which are Ho2s Heater system electrical , not sure what that is but I am thinking it doesn't have anything to do with the stalling but I could be wrong. Which is why I am here, I would like to see if there is something I could check or do myself before having to take it to a mechanic. I am having some financial difficulties right now and cant afford to go to mechanic. So if there is anyone that can help give me some ideas of what I can do myself first or what to check I would greatly appreciate it! Yes I am a female but I am pretty tough I think I can do some things by myself
I am looking for some help. I have a 2000 Honda Accord 4 door, 4 cyl. manual. I have about 220,000 miles. I bought this car brand new, it has been a awesome car! The only major thing I have had done to it is the clutch about 4 years ago. Anyway it just started acting weird, it stalls mostly when I stop, or slow down to turn, almost like when the rpm's go down thats when it wants to die. It starts right back up but now it is doing it everytime I stop the car at a light or stop sign. I took it to Oil Can Henry's to hook it up to get a code and the codes that came up were P1166 and P1167 which are Ho2s Heater system electrical , not sure what that is but I am thinking it doesn't have anything to do with the stalling but I could be wrong. Which is why I am here, I would like to see if there is something I could check or do myself before having to take it to a mechanic. I am having some financial difficulties right now and cant afford to go to mechanic. So if there is anyone that can help give me some ideas of what I can do myself first or what to check I would greatly appreciate it! Yes I am a female but I am pretty tough I think I can do some things by myself
#2
Hello,
I am looking for some help. I have a 2000 Honda Accord 4 door, 4 cyl. manual. I have about 220,000 miles. I bought this car brand new, it has been a awesome car! The only major thing I have had done to it is the clutch about 4 years ago. Anyway it just started acting weird, it stalls mostly when I stop, or slow down to turn, almost like when the rpm's go down thats when it wants to die. It starts right back up but now it is doing it everytime I stop the car at a light or stop sign. I took it to Oil Can Henry's to hook it up to get a code and the codes that came up were P1166 and P1167 which are Ho2s Heater system electrical , not sure what that is but I am thinking it doesn't have anything to do with the stalling but I could be wrong. Which is why I am here, I would like to see if there is something I could check or do myself before having to take it to a mechanic. I am having some financial difficulties right now and cant afford to go to mechanic. So if there is anyone that can help give me some ideas of what I can do myself first or what to check I would greatly appreciate it! Yes I am a female but I am pretty tough I think I can do some things by myself
I am looking for some help. I have a 2000 Honda Accord 4 door, 4 cyl. manual. I have about 220,000 miles. I bought this car brand new, it has been a awesome car! The only major thing I have had done to it is the clutch about 4 years ago. Anyway it just started acting weird, it stalls mostly when I stop, or slow down to turn, almost like when the rpm's go down thats when it wants to die. It starts right back up but now it is doing it everytime I stop the car at a light or stop sign. I took it to Oil Can Henry's to hook it up to get a code and the codes that came up were P1166 and P1167 which are Ho2s Heater system electrical , not sure what that is but I am thinking it doesn't have anything to do with the stalling but I could be wrong. Which is why I am here, I would like to see if there is something I could check or do myself before having to take it to a mechanic. I am having some financial difficulties right now and cant afford to go to mechanic. So if there is anyone that can help give me some ideas of what I can do myself first or what to check I would greatly appreciate it! Yes I am a female but I am pretty tough I think I can do some things by myself
#6
P1166 is Air/Fuel (Sensor 1) heater circuit malfunction.
P1167 is Air/Fuel (Sensor 1) heater system malfunction.
1. Both codes are related to the same primary sensor, located in the front of the engine. See attached picture. Your car is most likely a ULEV (Ultra Low Emission Vehicle) due to those codes. A/F sensors are a wide band type of oxygen sensor and generally a little bit more expensive than the regular narrow band sensor.
2. Generally, the A/F sensor will not cause your car to stall. The A/F sensor may cause some other issues though.
3. Check the following fuses:
http://www.driveaccord.net/PDF/ignition_switch.pdf
But, stalling can also be caused by other issues. You may want to see this link (Section 2) to see if your symptoms may match other causes.
Honda Acura ignition (no spark) troubleshooting tutorial - How to
P1167 is Air/Fuel (Sensor 1) heater system malfunction.
1. Both codes are related to the same primary sensor, located in the front of the engine. See attached picture. Your car is most likely a ULEV (Ultra Low Emission Vehicle) due to those codes. A/F sensors are a wide band type of oxygen sensor and generally a little bit more expensive than the regular narrow band sensor.
2. Generally, the A/F sensor will not cause your car to stall. The A/F sensor may cause some other issues though.
3. Check the following fuses:
- Driver's side under-dash fuse no. 6 (15A).
- Passenger's side under-dash fuse no. 5 (20A).
- There may be another fuse, I will let you know if I can verify aa third fuse.
http://www.driveaccord.net/PDF/ignition_switch.pdf
But, stalling can also be caused by other issues. You may want to see this link (Section 2) to see if your symptoms may match other causes.
Honda Acura ignition (no spark) troubleshooting tutorial - How to
#8
Thank you!
THANK YOU SO MUCH!! That was great information! I am going to re read this and see what I can do. I am not sure if my car is the ULEV, would it help if I give you the vin #?? I checked the fuses you mentioned and they looked ok except the one under the hood is a bigger fuse than the normal but I went to pull it out to check and it broke so I just went and bought another one to put back in. The only thing is when I went to pull it out, the plastic around it broke but the bottom part is still in there. I have to pull it out with some needle nose pliers or something. I wanted to ask before I did that thou...it wont electrocute me will it? I mean when I pull it out with pliers? The strange thing is when I went to Oil Can Henry's to check my car and they gave me those codes, well he reset the check engine light. Then I came straight home to research those codes. I did that, then went out and checked the fuses as I said, and then broke the one as I said, so went to Napa to get a new fuse. Well right then I noticed my speedometer doesn't work now. So either it is the fuse I broke, or the guy at oil can henry's did something I guess.
P1166 is Air/Fuel (Sensor 1) heater circuit malfunction.
P1167 is Air/Fuel (Sensor 1) heater system malfunction.
1. Both codes are related to the same primary sensor, located in the front of the engine. See attached picture. Your car is most likely a ULEV (Ultra Low Emission Vehicle) due to those codes. A/F sensors are a wide band type of oxygen sensor and generally a little bit more expensive than the regular narrow band sensor.
2. Generally, the A/F sensor will not cause your car to stall. The A/F sensor may cause some other issues though.
3. Check the following fuses:
http://www.driveaccord.net/PDF/ignition_switch.pdf
But, stalling can also be caused by other issues. You may want to see this link (Section 2) to see if your symptoms may match other causes.
Honda Acura ignition (no spark) troubleshooting tutorial - How to
P1167 is Air/Fuel (Sensor 1) heater system malfunction.
1. Both codes are related to the same primary sensor, located in the front of the engine. See attached picture. Your car is most likely a ULEV (Ultra Low Emission Vehicle) due to those codes. A/F sensors are a wide band type of oxygen sensor and generally a little bit more expensive than the regular narrow band sensor.
2. Generally, the A/F sensor will not cause your car to stall. The A/F sensor may cause some other issues though.
3. Check the following fuses:
- Driver's side under-dash fuse no. 6 (15A).
- Passenger's side under-dash fuse no. 5 (20A).
- There may be another fuse, I will let you know if I can verify aa third fuse.
http://www.driveaccord.net/PDF/ignition_switch.pdf
But, stalling can also be caused by other issues. You may want to see this link (Section 2) to see if your symptoms may match other causes.
Honda Acura ignition (no spark) troubleshooting tutorial - How to
#9
Hi,
In my previous post, I didn't mention to check any under-hood fuse yet. The service manual had some incorrect information; so, I was verifying it first. The Honda electrical circuit information I have shows the correct information.
The large fuses in the under-hood fuse box doesn't require pulling to check. Those need to be removed with a philips screw driver. (See attached images) You should disconnect the negative battery cable first before you try to replace the large fuse. Under-hood Fuse No. 55 (40A) protects the passenger side Fuse No. 6 (20A) for the A/F sensor.
If the speedometer is not working, check the driver's side under-dash (inside the car) Fuse No. 6 (15A).
Like the picture above, does your engine says ULEV (green area)?
You can also look for the emission sticker under the hood area to see if it says ULEV. See attached image.
Or you can give me the VIN (pm if you like).
In my previous post, I didn't mention to check any under-hood fuse yet. The service manual had some incorrect information; so, I was verifying it first. The Honda electrical circuit information I have shows the correct information.
The large fuses in the under-hood fuse box doesn't require pulling to check. Those need to be removed with a philips screw driver. (See attached images) You should disconnect the negative battery cable first before you try to replace the large fuse. Under-hood Fuse No. 55 (40A) protects the passenger side Fuse No. 6 (20A) for the A/F sensor.
If the speedometer is not working, check the driver's side under-dash (inside the car) Fuse No. 6 (15A).
Like the picture above, does your engine says ULEV (green area)?
You can also look for the emission sticker under the hood area to see if it says ULEV. See attached image.
Or you can give me the VIN (pm if you like).