I've got most of the parts for a thorough timing belt job.

I called Honda to ask if they would remove, lubricate and re-tighten the crank pulley bolt and they said they would do it, but it sounded to me like they may actually charge an hour's labor to do the job. I didn't even bother to ask about torquing it after I complete the job.

Being the tightwad I am, I don't like that, so I'm looking at alternatives to remove the crank bolt, even though I understand that it can be a bear to remove.

I've seen some fairly good deals on used electric impact wrenches. I'm thinking about the DeWalt DW292, which supposedly goes up to 345 lb - ft of torque. If a wrench that powerful won't do the job, then I've also considered getting a foreign-made 3/4" drive socket set, with extensions.

There's also a 3/4" drive Snap On tool which is sold merely as a ratchet head and then you put on it as long a handle as you need to get the job done. I cannot imagine that a three or four foot lever would not be sufficent to remove that bolt.

I'm 6' 6" and 285 lbs, so I expect that I can exert a fair bit of torque on a 19mm bolt if I were to use a 3'4" drive socket and a breaker bar having a 4' handle. In fact, my only concern would be breaking the head off the bolt - which, should it happen, I'm willing to bet would not be a good thing.

I think it's a toss-up between the two tools in usefulness, but maybe some others here who own impact wrenches would like to comment on how useful they are. Maybe once you get them you use them all the time and I'm just plain ignorant.

Anyway, I'd appreciate any comments about electric impact wrenches. I do not have an adequate compressor for an air version, so that is definitely "out".

Thanks

 

You may be surprised, i've had a number of em that took everything I had to get loose. (i'm not a lightweight either) Have n ir 261 now: 3/4 drive 1100 ft/lbs, Sometime it has to work a little.

 

I figured I'd get socket extensions long enough to stick outside the wheel well a bit. I'd then cradle the end using a jack stand and install the breaker bar perpendicular (horizontal) to that.

At least theoretically, all I'd have to do is put my weight down on the end of the bar.

Assuming a 4' extension - 4ft x 285 lbs = 1140 ft lbs Some rocking motion should be able to increase that amount slightly. Getting my wife to help should give even more.

I hope that bloody bolt is hardened!

The bolt is supposed to be installed at around 160 ft lbs, isn't it? Are they over-tightened on purpose?

I just called a tool rental place and was told that I can rent a very heavy duty 3/4" drive electric impact wrench for $20 per day, so maybe I'll rent instead of buying.

When you use an impact wrench, do you still have to use that crank-pulley holder?

 

I would be careful with the extensions and all. You would put a lot of torque on it, but a lot of force in other directions as well. I don't know how big/hard the bolts you talk about are, but you wouldn't want to bend the bolt or twist something else the wrong way.

I would go with the $20 rental if you don't want to buy. I looked at the electric impacts, but I got a 26gal 5hp compressor for a very very good deal. One of the best purchases I ever made.

 

Impact wrench and a good compressor are a must if you plan to take on some of the bigger maintenance projects for your car.

 

I also absolutely love my air ratchet

 

Well, because of the apparent popularity and power of air guns, I did a little searching for potential candidates.

Anyone own one of these, and, if so, what do you think of it??
http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/w...ogle&cm_ite=NA

I am quite amazed by two of its specifications:
1. Max "loosening" torque of 1000 ft-lbs
2. Air consumption of 4 CFM @ 90 psi

As I said previously, I will not buy an additional compressor to do only occasional maintenance on our 92 Accord, but my Iron Horse, single-cast-iron-cylinder, two tank air compressor (that I bought to continuously operate a large framing nailer) is rated at 4.1 cfm at 90 psi, so, at least for brief periods - say 1 minute - it should theoretically be able to supply this particular tool.

If it were a close call, I could also buy one of those auxilliary portable tanks and build up all three tanks to say 125 psi before starting to use the gun. With the extra initial capacity provided by the aux tank, I should in that case be able to get at least good minute's worth of continuous power out of the gun.

Is that "loosening" torque specification provided by the manufacturer worth the "paper" it's printed on?

BTW, here's a rather neat Makita chart which graphically shows the relationship between time-of-application and torque. (I assume the "time" is AFTER the bottom of the head of the bolt makes initial contact with its "mating" surface.)


Of course this is for Makita's TW1000 only - I assume that each particular wrench will have its unique curve, but I think this shows quite clearly the general relationship. Of course, in the case at hand of loosening a bolt, I believe that the same holds true.

I think the problem would be that the particular tool has to have enough "top end" torque to "break free" a bolt which has been tightened originally to 160 ft-lb. There must be some corrosion or otherwise just plain getting stuck which makes this job particularly chanllenging for man or machine. Maybe just starting the engine thousands of times tightens the nut further and further.

 

I use my impact wrench for loosening a lot of nuts and bolts. Never, never use one to tighten anything. It takes more effort to loosen a nut since the metal sets and sometimes corrodes.

I have even used my starter to loosen the pulley nut (long break-over bar), but your engine rotation has to be correct or you will snap off the bolt!!!!

 

You are a brave man!
I woudn't try that unless I had a gun to my head and, even then, I'd probably think it over for a bit.

 

Most older Honda 4-cylinder engines rotate the wrong way for that. If the crank pulley is on the left side of the car, using the engine will tighten the bolt.

The V-6, and the newer K-series engines have the crank pulley on the right side of the car. That'll work, but be real careful the breaker bar doesn't flap around & hurt somebody.