So as seen here, my 02 SE has a front passenger door from an 00 and the wiring is just different enough to make the window switch not work. Has anyone successfully replaced a passenger door from a different year of car and can advise how to correctly connect the wiring? I've re-pinned the 6-pin connector but it still doesn't work so I assume I need to change something on the multiplex/master/main switch.

If anyone can help me avoid spending the next three weeks poring over schematics, thanks in advance!

 

1. The re-pinning of wires should be what is shown in the attached image. For female side connectors, the pin number is based on the wire side of the connector, not the terminal cavity side of the connector.

The following can be checked in any order you wish.

2. Check that the wires have no nicks/cuts at the door jamb or along the harness.

3. Check for corrosion or bent terminals at the harness connectors to the passenger under-dash fuse box. Ensure connectors are firmly plugged in.

4. Check Passenger side under-dash Fuse No. 8 (20A) is not blown.

5. With ignition in ON position, is there power at Fuse No. 8? You will need a voltmeter.

6. If there is power at Fuse No. 8 with ignition ON, then check for power at the Blu/Blk wire that is at the front passenger window switch.

 

Thanks, I'll poke around some more over the next couple of days and report back...

 

I didn't have the wires quite right (had to swap the 1 and 2 pins) and the #8 fuse had blown at some point while I was messing with it before, but after making those changes it attempts to move when pulling the switch up but nothing happens when pushing it down. There's power at the fuse and the blue/black wire, and there's power on the two wires going from the 2-pin connector to the motor when the switch is moved (door switch or master switch), so am I looking for something closer to the motor?

The motor worked as of last week (got it to roll up and down while experimenting with moving the pins around, but then couldn't get it back up and took it to the shop where they jumped the wires with a battery starter). At one point it was running automatically when I turned the key on but then stopped, at which point I'm guessing the fuse got blown.

The big connector in the fuse compartment had the push-tab broken off and wouldn't come out but does it look OK from this side?

 

The connector seems a little chewed up even in areas other than where the tab was.

You probably can insert a small flat head screwdriver where the tab use to be to try to release and pull out the connector at the same time to inspect all the terminals and wiring more closely.

There may even be an issue with other wiring at the connector.

 

Arrgh, I've tried every implement that would fit from screwdrivers to a nail file and I can't get that connector loose. Is there another clip that needs to be released besides the one that's broken off?

How likely is it that that's where the problem is if there's power at the motor wires? Something else I noticed today, one of the wires to the motor has power whether the switch is pushed up or down, is that normal?

This is connector F, right? The manual makes it look like a 22-pin, but mine only looks like it has 20. Am I reading this right?

 

Okay, I think I need further clarification on the 6-pin. The diagram you posted is labeled with the blue/yellow wire to the motor in pin 1 and the blue/yellow from the multiplex in pin 2, but the schematic in the service manual shows it the other way around?

If I swap those two after having replaced the fuse, I'm back to the window motor running when the key is turned. Currently it's rolling up, last time I tried this config I could get it to move up or down if I swapped the positions of the motor wires (I think).

I disconnected the switch and pulled the fuse just to be safe but am I looking for a bad ground?

 

The diagrams I posted were from Honda's site for the Electrical Troubleshooting Manual (ETM).

I previously posted this other circuit diagram (be aware of the asterisk * for model years) in your other thread which matches the connector pin number configuration I posted:



Looking closely at the service manual circuit diagram you posted, pins 1 and 2 are switched around compared to the Honda ETM.



The Honda ETM may be incorrect in regards to pin 1 and 2 wiring.

Wiring the way you did to get the motor running, is everything okay? Or is there still some other issue?

 

With it wired the way it shows in the service manual, the motor is running (up) every time the key is turned to the II position. With it wired the way it shows in the ETM, the motor will attempt to go up with the switch pushed up, but do nothing when the switch is pushed down.

If it's not a grounding problem I'm guessing it's something in that 20-pin that goes into the passenger's side fuse box (the one I can't get out.) Does the ETM have a page for that?

Also I notice your circuit diagram is labeled for LX/EX. My car is supposedly an SE but I think the door might have come off one of those b/c I notice that diagram shows blue/red and blue/white wires going to the motor from another connector, which the problem window does have.

 

I'm a little tired right now. I will think about this and see if I can come up with some tests to do based on what you've described.