A Special Edition (SE) is an LX with a few more features. The ETM does not show any other power window diagrams other than LX/EX.

The ETM does not show a summary pin-out for the 20P connector that plugs into the passenger side fuse box.

Here are some tests to try (hopefully, my logic is correct ):

Disconnect the 6P connector from the front passenger window switch.

Test 1:

• With a spare piece of wire, insert one end into the cavity terminal for the Wht/Red wire (this should be the ground source) and the other end into the Blu/Wht cavity terminal (this goes to the motor).

• With another spare piece of wire, insert the other end into the cavity terminal for Blu/Blk wire (this should be the power coming from the power window relay and fuse no. 8) and the other end into the cavity terminal for the Blu/Red cavity terminal (this goes to the motor).

With the ignition to ON, does the window move down? If it doesn't move, instead of using the Wht/Red cavity terminal, connect the end of the spare wire to body ground (metal). Now does it move?



Test 2: (remove jumper wires from test 1, then proceed) Essentially you will switch the polarity (+ and 1) to reverse the motor.

• With a spare piece of wire, insert one end into the cavity terminal for the Wht/Red wire (this should be the ground source) and the other end into the Blu/Red cavity terminal (this goes to the motor).

• With another spare piece of wire, insert the other end into the cavity terminal for Blu/Blk wire (this should be the power coming from the power window relay and fuse no. 8) and the other end into the cavity terminal for the Blu/Wht cavity terminal (this goes to the motor).

With the ignition to ON, does the window move up? If it doesn't move, instead of using the Wht/Red cavity terminal, connect the end of the spare wire to body ground (metal).


Test #3

If motor works in both directions, now with a voltmeter, check the voltage on Blu wire, and then the Blu/Yel wire coming from the passenger MCU.

 

All righty, thanks. I'll try these tomorrow or Wed and report back.

 

The saga continues...

I think the ETM might actually be the correct one b/c with it wired that way it's the closest to working correctly (i.e. when the switch is pulled rather than any time the key is on).

I was actually able to get the motor to work in both directions just by swapping the wires on the 2-pin going out to the motor. When running the motor I read around 12V on the blue & yellow wire off the MCU and less than 1V on the blue wire.

Something else I discovered was that it wouldn't run at all from the driver's side switch. So maybe the problem is between there and the passenger MCU?

I've got half a mind to just leave the wires dangling out the door panel and swap them when I want to put the window up and down, LOL...

 

When you were able to make the motor run both ways, was that using the test methods I wrote, or some other way you did?

 

It was by swapping the positions of the motor wires going from the switch to the 2-pin to the motor (on the motor end), with the wires at the 6-pin configured as shown in the ETM and the switch attached. So the thicker blue/white and blue/yellow wires coming off the 6-pin, I reversed them on the other end.

(In the attached photo I took the 2P connector off and just attached the female leads directly to the motor connector to make it easier to swap around.)

Switching the leads on the motor connector is how I got it to reverse direction. It only works when I pull up on the passenger door switch.

 

I tried your tests this morning and it worked in both directions, although it was the reverse - with the R/W jumped to the Blue/W and Blue/Bk to Blue/yellow the window went up, the other way it went down - at the 2-pin I had the blue/white wire from the switch going to the blue/red to the motor and the blue/yellow from the switch to the blue/white from the motor so maybe it's supposed to be the other way around, but this config is the way that the window rolls up when the switch is pulled up.

When I measured the voltage yesterday it was 12V on the blue/yellow wire from the MCU and less than one on the blue wire. Is it supposed to be 12 on both?

Edit: I just checked it again and it turns out the blue wire actually is getting 12V when I push the switch down, it just doesn't do anything. The motor only runs when the switch is pulled up. I tested the switch in the back window and it functioned normally. Is it possible that I do need a different kind of switch for the front window?

 

I was able to find the ETM (Vladimir Putin probably has my phone number now, LOL) and the one I have does show the layout for that Connector F (which is a 20-pin contrary to how it was illustrated in the service manuals I had) and the wires appear to be in the right places, although I never was able to get the plug out to check the terminals.

I keep going back to the switch - in the circuit diagrams from the ETM, the front passengers side actually does look different than the back two, although they appeared identical in the SM. The W/R wire is going to the... sub-switch? on the circuit breaker side of the motor on the front, but it goes to the sub-switch on the motor side on the back.

I'm trying to figure out what all those switch components actually do...

Edit - if I wire the 6-pin to match the rear switches according to how the wire functions are listed in the ETM connector view, (master up & down in 1 and 3, main switch enable in 4, switched power in 5 and motor wires in 2 and 6), the switch makes a clicking noise even when the key is off and the motor runs when the key is on. That might have been how I blew the fuse last time, because I was trying every permutation I could think of in the 6-pin. But I notice the connector view for the front passengers side says the R/W wire on the 01-02 is the master-down, but all the other connector views have it listed as the main switch enable. Is that a typo? In which case I'd assume the blue is supposed to be the master-down. Pretty sure I already tried that config (blue/yellow and blue in 1 and 3, r/w and blue/black in 4 and 5, motor wires in 2 and 6) and it didn't work at all, though. Looking at the connector views in the ETM, the 00s have the same wire functions in the same sockets in the front and rear, but the 01-02s don't, which goes back to it possibly needing a different switch in the front.

 

Well, I reattempted the "blue/yellow and blue in 1 and 3, r/w and blue/black in 4 and 5, motor wires in 2 and 6" configuration this morning, and for about 3 seconds it appeared to function normally, then it went back to the motor running when the key was on, and then the switch stopped functioning at all. The fuse didn't blow so I think I melted something inside the switch. The switch still partly functioned when attached to the rear window (didn't work from the actual switch but the window could be raised and lowered from the master at the driver's door).

When I put the rear window switch on the front window with the 6-pin back to the config shown in the ETM, it functioned the way it has been (only when the switch is pulled up, have to swap 2-pin leads to reverse the motor). Measuring the voltage at the wires from the 6-pin to the motor, there was 12 volts on one when the switch was pulled up and 12V on the other when the switched was pushed down, so it's like the current is there but somehow not getting to the right place. ??? The motor runs both directions when jumped so... yeah, I got nothing here.

 

The story so far: My car is an 02 with a 00 front passenger door. With the 6-pin wired in the 00 layout as seen here, the switch doesn't work at all. With it rewired in the '01-02 layout, it works, but only from that door (not from the master) and only when the switch is pulled up (the window can be made to move up and down by reversing the leads at the 2-pin going to the motor).

Is the front passenger window switch actually supposed to be different mechanically than the rear window switches? The switch out of the front passenger door was working normally in the rear door, but the rear switch exhibits the same behavior when plugged into the front. The wiring diagram for the front and rear passenger window switches in the service manual looks identical, but appears slightly different in the electrical troubleshooting manual.

If anybody knows whether it's actually supposed to be a completely different switch in the front for this model year, please advise.

 

As your threads are still related to the same issue, I merged two of them. There is no need to make separate threads.

The front passenger window switch is the same part number as the rear window switches.