I must have miss-read the answer?

 

You need to determine if the problem is due to lack of spark or lack of fuel.

Add about a gallon of gas to the tank to see if you ran out of gas.

When you first turn the key to the II position, the fuel pump will turn on for about two seconds when the check engine light turns on. This is a faint buzzing/whirling sound that comes from the back seat, so turn off the radio and blower, so you can listen carefully.

Read How to check CEL codes in the DIY section. Post any codes you find on here.

 

CEL does go off after a couple seconds, and you can hear the pump priming.

 

As Jim said, you still need to verify fuel-add gas, spray starting/carb cleaner into TB or check pressure.

You say spark is good.

Three basic things needed for an engine to run. Air/fuel/spark...just at the right time and proportions. So if you have spark, have fuel (air is almost a given?) then the proptions are not correct when cold?

Runs fine once started so fuel, spark, timing seem to check out....what controls "cold start", like a choke on a carb'd engine?

I've been wrong before and will be again, that is why I'm only asking that it be TESTED. ECT=engine coolant temp sensor. It "tells" the ecu/computer what the temp of the engine is so the ecu can adjust timing, fuel mixture and a number if other things....test procedures can be found in the manuals.

 

I looked back to see whether you have a V-6 or 4-cyl??

On the 1997 4-cyl engine, the "cold-start" valve is called the FITV (fast-idle thermo valve) and it's bolted to the underside of the throttle body. It allows extra air in, bypassing the throttle. All the other sensors take care of the extra fuel to go along with the air.

It has coolant running through it and as it warms up it closes-off the extra air.

 

Sorry to sound like a tool, but in what manual can I find out how to test the ECT? Last summer I had the seal in my distributor shift causing the cap to fill with oil and spill out everywhere.......it's possible that the sensor is still covered in the remnants of last summers leak causing some issues with starting. I'll check it next........as soon as it warms up above minus 13 outside.......Brrr!!!!!

 

Yes the two wire sensor under the dist/slightly to the front of the car-again we are assuming this is a 4cyl- is the ECT. There is a single wire for the gauge inside the car.
Measure the resistance on the two pins of the sensor-as the temp increases the resistance drops. There are also tests for the wire going to the sensor.

PLEASE also read Jim's post---I forgot about that- could be getting the fuel but not the right amount of air.

 

It's in the shop manual published by Helm. There's a table with a couple values of resistance at different temperatures. Look in the DIY section for possibly a link to a manual like that.
www dot helminc dot com if you want to buy the book.

 

I am having the same prob...but my Engine compartment is packed with snow !!! Mine kinda acts like its a Carburetor fuel system with a cold start... Dude, Im From Iowa originally and still talk to ppl up there, Ya all got some hella cold and alot snow...Hope it all works out

 

Gotter fixed fellas...........Ignition Control Module........4 pronged module inside distributor........This one really had me baffled as I assumed that the car wouldn't start at all if the module was bad.......live and learn I guess. Thanks for all the help from everyone, I appreciate it.
Iowan