Hi All!
I have a 96 Honda Accord EX 4dr 4 cyl Vtec, 189k miles, I bought off of Craigslist 4 years ago. It has lived up to it's rep as reliable transport for the most part. I try to do the simple stuff myself. Like today, I was driving back from a 60 mile round-trip to a job interview, when I came to the first stop after exiting the highway it started idling ruff. This engine normally purrs (although I have been getting the screech on occasion when I start it, and the idle has been varying rpms, kinda like the a/c has kicked in). The check engine light came on and I went to the nearest Autozone for a readout. The reading says P0301 - cylinder #1 misfire detected.
So I replaced the plug in #1 cylinder but now when I turn the ignition I get nothing. Lights are on and battery seems OK. I put the old plug back in, in case the new one was defective but same thing. It is dark and I didn't check fuses cause I really can't see anything under there. I'll check in daylight.
Did I blow my starter somehow replacing the spark plug? If not what would you recommend as my next troubleshooting step? And how can I check the starter to see if it is bad?
Also, I live in Denver now, moved from the midwest, and the regular gas is 85 octane at altitude. Use to 87 in the midwest. I put 87 octane in the last fill-up. Could that have had any effect on the plugs, injectors? I plan on using the 85 octane from now on unless anyone has a better recommendation.
I need this car for transport to my followup interview on Thursday. Thanks in advance for any help.

dj

96 Honda Accord EX 4dr 4 cyl Vtec, 189k miles

 

Welcome to HAF.

I moved your post for better response.

Missing on one cylinder is likely an ignition fault in the #1 distributor cap, wire, or plug. If miss is a dead miss ( happens every firing), then try swapping an old spark plug lead to see if problem is fixed. Alternatively swap two leads to see if problem moves to another cylinder. Inspect the distributor cap #1 tower for cracks and carbon traces, or replace cap.

It is possible, but less likely, to be a fuel injector problem. Check fuel trim for high or low Long Term Fuel Trim (LTFT). High (> 10% blocked injector) or low (< -10% leaking injector) will be an indicator of blocked or leaking fuel injector.

good luck

 

I went ahead and bought a set of ignition cables and replaced the #1. still not starting. Then I noticed the shifter was not all the way in park Problem solved. Feeling pretty stupid., but the car is running and the idle is stable.
I'll change all the plugs and wires anyway. Chances are the plugs are due.

Thanks for the response.

 

Hold on. When you turn the key to start the car, nothing happens? Do you hear a click from the starter motor when you try to start the engine?

 

He posted this right before your post, Dewitt Josef wrote; Then I noticed the shifter was not all the way in park Problem solved.

Glad you found it. Sometimes it's an easy fix.

 

I see two problems. Missing on #1 and no-start. P-N switch won't fix missing.

good luck

 

Thanks for the responses. Been busy with the move and new job. I ran into the same issue with the #3 cylinder after another long drive. I only replaced the #3 ignition wire and that fixed it. I'm still wondering if the lower octane might be involved in the cylinders failing, or is it time to replace plugs and wires and get a tune up? I put an injector cleaner in the last fill-up and used 87 octane, like I always did before moving to higher altitude. Except the previous fill-up was 85 octane. I've only put 20k on in the past 4 years and it always runs smooth. I'm seeing a slight fluctuation in the idle RPM's, but it is very small.
Any ideas?

 

How long has it been since you changed the spark plugs? What kind of spark plugs are you using? You should remove the distributor cap and see if the contacts are worn down and inspect the surface of the rotor. What kind of spark plug wires are you using?

 

Yup, it sounds like it's complete tune up time. Cap, rotor, plugs and wires time. I like to do them together, so I know how many miles/time they have on them. Definitely use NGK plugs. I like the iridiums myself (I get them thru Rock Auto).