I'm basing the IACV setup from my 95 accord. The IACV had two coolant hoses going to it and coolant flowed through a sealed chamber, so there was no way to get coolant into the intake.

If you have the original part, does the IACV have an open port where the coolant enters the throttle body? The 98 and V6 may be a much different design.

 

The IAC valve has 3 chambers, the coolant enters or leaves from the bottom port/nipple and there is another port/nipple on the left side of the throttle body. I assume the coolant circulates from one side and exits the other. I will attach pic when I get home from work. Fortunately when I attempted to start the car it never lit off or I would have had a lot more coolant in the intake. When it started leaking I thought it was from the bottom hose that connects to the IAC but in hindsight believe the TB to intake housing gasket was saturated and this is why it started to leak. Had a very smal tear/rip in the hose but couldn't figure out why it would leak because clamp was pretty tight. Believe now it was run off from the other gasket.

 

Here is pick of old IAC valve. The far right port is for coolant.

 

Another pic of TB with nipple port that is in front of pic is the coolant and the other one below it is the new AIC valve nipple port.

 

I picked up tonight a new gasket for TB and hose that I had torn. I decided to pull the intake manifold off to make sure I didn't have any coolant and found that I did get some coolant into the manifold itself, doesn't look like much if any got down inside the 6 lower passages, but as a precaution I'm going to try and set up my wet vac to suck up and residue, while I'm doing this is it ok to spray brake cleaner or carbuator cleaner down these chambers to get some of the carbon deposits out? I'm hoping because the engine never turned over that coolant did not make it down these chambers...if it did what should I do? I really don't want to rip into it any further than I have to. She was running (although rough) before I took the intake off and changed the IAC. Also when I did remove the IAC and cleaned the intake manifold it did not have any coolant inside. i just need a warm and fuzzy that when I put this back together that I won't have any issues. If a small amount of coolant made it through the intake valves is it going to ruin my day after I get her running?

 

You should be fine. If you are that worried about it you could pull the plugs and spin the engine.

I would only use carb/TB cleaner inside the intake runners.

Just me but if you have the intake off.......might want to be sure to get the egr port as clean as you can....I hate the p0401 code

 

Progress made. Used an old T-shirt soaked with carb cleaner and got the intake chambers, reinstalled new intake manifold gasket and reassembled. Of course all my problems are not gone. I have ABS light and SRS. I used a code reader and have a confirmed P0141 for O2 sensor circuit and a pending P0505. I'm thinking the flood waters have contributed to my current problems. The engine is running better, no more surging, I think the IAC fixed that. I drove the car to fill up the tank with fresh gas and think my ABS may be the wheel bearings, feels kinda rough. I guess that is my new project, could also be wheel sensors but not getting any codes for them. Have to get rid of the light so I can get the car to pass state inspection.

 

Might be worth taking it to the dealer to read the ABS and SRS codes. My wife did that with her car, and they found a bad ABS pick up on the right rear, and a bad passenger seat belt. The seat belt was covered under warranty, while I changed the ABS pick up unit, and cleared the code for it. They didn't even charge her for reading the codes, and that saved me a bunch of money on not buying parts I didn't need. I know some don't like going to the dealer for stuff, but sometimes it can actually save you a few bucks. I had her order me up some small bulbs this past week, as I needed some for her 2000 Accord, and some for my 99 Accord.

 

I'll cross-post this as a "PSA - Public Savings Alert": If you are going to replace the I.A.C. Valve, and opt for aftermarket (which I do all of the time with generally good results); do yourself a favor and BUY TWO...lest you get a bad one, and not know it... Having had to bear the time/expense of pulling the original {Denso}, believed bad, and swapping with a Driveworks {AdvaceAuto non-OEM}, I was thrown by exactly the same "hunting" behavior.

Ultimately, forsaking 'what are the chances of both bad?' thoughts, I swapped in the much more expensive OEM part - and PROBLEM SOLVED. Now; I suspect if I had bought a few aftermarkets, one would have worked fine. It's easy to pull and replace, so you can save money there (with not much to the innards, on a near twenty year old car, etc...) - just be aware that you can easily get a DoA part if you don't buy from the stealership.

Be advised - decide up front!