Im going Crazy !!!
#1
03-22-2011, 07:57 PM
Im going Crazy !!!
Got a 1991 honda accord lx, auto trans. cruise control.
The other day i was driving and the engine kinda bogged down but then worked itself out so it seemed.
The next day i got home and went to leave about 10 minutes later and the car just wouldnt start. About an hour later went out and tried it again and for some reason it fired up no problem. I drove it about 10 to 15 minutes and all the sudden major loss of power, so much that it wouldnt get over 10 MPH no matter how much gas i gave it. The more gas i would try to give the more the engine would bog. It eventually died and i had to wait about 30 minutes before it would start again.
So far i have replaced the plug wires, plugs, entire distibutor assembly ( cap, rotor, Ignition control module, everything ) and it still does the same thing.
Anybody have any clues ? Would be much obliged !!!
The other day i was driving and the engine kinda bogged down but then worked itself out so it seemed.
The next day i got home and went to leave about 10 minutes later and the car just wouldnt start. About an hour later went out and tried it again and for some reason it fired up no problem. I drove it about 10 to 15 minutes and all the sudden major loss of power, so much that it wouldnt get over 10 MPH no matter how much gas i gave it. The more gas i would try to give the more the engine would bog. It eventually died and i had to wait about 30 minutes before it would start again.
So far i have replaced the plug wires, plugs, entire distibutor assembly ( cap, rotor, Ignition control module, everything ) and it still does the same thing.
Anybody have any clues ? Would be much obliged !!!
#2
03-22-2011, 08:24 PM
Will the car stall out if you shake the key?
When the car isn't firing up, is the starter turning the engine?
Did the check engine light or the D4/S light start flashing when you are driving?
Have you checked for ECU codes? See How to get CEL codes thread in the DIY section. You will have to change the display settings at the bottom of the page, so you can see all threads from the beginning.
Do you have a timing light?
When the car isn't firing up, is the starter turning the engine?
Did the check engine light or the D4/S light start flashing when you are driving?
Have you checked for ECU codes? See How to get CEL codes thread in the DIY section. You will have to change the display settings at the bottom of the page, so you can see all threads from the beginning.
Do you have a timing light?
#3
03-22-2011, 09:35 PM
Will the car stall out if you shake the key?
When the car isn't firing up, is the starter turning the engine?
Did the check engine light or the D4/S light start flashing when you are driving?
Have you checked for ECU codes? See How to get CEL codes thread in the DIY section. You will have to change the display settings at the bottom of the page, so you can see all threads from the beginning.
Do you have a timing light?
When the car isn't firing up, is the starter turning the engine?
Did the check engine light or the D4/S light start flashing when you are driving?
Have you checked for ECU codes? See How to get CEL codes thread in the DIY section. You will have to change the display settings at the bottom of the page, so you can see all threads from the beginning.
Do you have a timing light?
#5
03-22-2011, 11:49 PM
my car has been doing the exact same thing.....get a compression check. my car has a dead cylinder and the 2nd cylinder is trying to pick up the slack from the first.
#6
03-23-2011, 01:55 AM
I looked at ur cel codes thread and correct me if im not mistaken, but its telling me to short out the computer on my car to get a code from flashing lights ?
Im trying to fix my car not break something else on it. Also i dont have a timing light, but all my plugs are firing.
Im trying to fix my car not break something else on it. Also i dont have a timing light, but all my plugs are firing.
#7
03-23-2011, 02:15 AM
The spark test by pulling a wire can mislead you. There was a thread with about 50 posts, before the person realized that the good spark he saw was actually a weak spark.
Shorting that connector will not harm your car. That is usually the first thing you should do to diagnose a problem. A fault with a sensor can cause a no start.
There is another way to check for codes, since you aren't comfortable with the OBD1 procedure. On your 91 accord you can count the LED flashes on the ECU. Copy and past the link below into your browser, read page 6-148.
media.honda.co.uk/car/owner/media/manuals/accordManual/400/6-148.pdf
The other thing you should get in the habit of doing is listening for the fuel pump to prime. All you need to do is to turn the key to the II position, but do not try to start the car. Listen for the fuel pump to turn on for ~2 seconds while the check engine light is on. This is a faint buzzing/whirling sound that comes from the back seat, so listen carefully. Turn off the radio and heater blower so you can listen for it. Let us know if that sound is missing or present when the car is both starting and not starting.
Shorting that connector will not harm your car. That is usually the first thing you should do to diagnose a problem. A fault with a sensor can cause a no start.
There is another way to check for codes, since you aren't comfortable with the OBD1 procedure. On your 91 accord you can count the LED flashes on the ECU. Copy and past the link below into your browser, read page 6-148.
media.honda.co.uk/car/owner/media/manuals/accordManual/400/6-148.pdf
The other thing you should get in the habit of doing is listening for the fuel pump to prime. All you need to do is to turn the key to the II position, but do not try to start the car. Listen for the fuel pump to turn on for ~2 seconds while the check engine light is on. This is a faint buzzing/whirling sound that comes from the back seat, so listen carefully. Turn off the radio and heater blower so you can listen for it. Let us know if that sound is missing or present when the car is both starting and not starting.
#8
03-23-2011, 02:27 AM
Shorting that connector is in the shop manual. Honda has a "special tool" that is a loop of wire that you can purchase. I wouldn't have posted that DIY, if it could damage your car.
Copy and paste the youtube link in your browser. This will show you how to do this as well. The one thing he does wrong is that you short the bigger holes on the same side that hold the pins and not diagonal.
youtube.com/watch?v=b6rEk9aXOmg
Copy and paste the youtube link in your browser. This will show you how to do this as well. The one thing he does wrong is that you short the bigger holes on the same side that hold the pins and not diagonal.
youtube.com/watch?v=b6rEk9aXOmg
#9
03-23-2011, 01:25 PM
The spark test by pulling a wire can mislead you. There was a thread with about 50 posts, before the person realized that the good spark he saw was actually a weak spark.
Shorting that connector will not harm your car. That is usually the first thing you should do to diagnose a problem. A fault with a sensor can cause a no start.
There is another way to check for codes, since you aren't comfortable with the OBD1 procedure. On your 91 accord you can count the LED flashes on the ECU. Copy and past the link below into your browser, read page 6-148.
media.honda.co.uk/car/owner/media/manuals/accordManual/400/6-148.pdf
The other thing you should get in the habit of doing is listening for the fuel pump to prime. All you need to do is to turn the key to the II position, but do not try to start the car. Listen for the fuel pump to turn on for ~2 seconds while the check engine light is on. This is a faint buzzing/whirling sound that comes from the back seat, so listen carefully. Turn off the radio and heater blower so you can listen for it. Let us know if that sound is missing or present when the car is both starting and not starting.
Shorting that connector will not harm your car. That is usually the first thing you should do to diagnose a problem. A fault with a sensor can cause a no start.
There is another way to check for codes, since you aren't comfortable with the OBD1 procedure. On your 91 accord you can count the LED flashes on the ECU. Copy and past the link below into your browser, read page 6-148.
media.honda.co.uk/car/owner/media/manuals/accordManual/400/6-148.pdf
The other thing you should get in the habit of doing is listening for the fuel pump to prime. All you need to do is to turn the key to the II position, but do not try to start the car. Listen for the fuel pump to turn on for ~2 seconds while the check engine light is on. This is a faint buzzing/whirling sound that comes from the back seat, so listen carefully. Turn off the radio and heater blower so you can listen for it. Let us know if that sound is missing or present when the car is both starting and not starting.
Might be the problem. Can i access the fuel pump without dropping the tank ? I know i took out my back seat and saw an access panel that had the letters " FR " on it but i think that might be where my fuel float is and maybe the fuel regulator if thats what " FR " means.
#10
03-23-2011, 02:12 PM
Are you able to get the car to start?
Not sure what FR stand for, but that is the fuel float mechanism. That panel was in the trunk near the back seat on my 95. Thought the 90-93 had it in the same location.
You will have to drop the tank to get to the fuel pump.
I would not do that just yet. You want to figure out if there is power being sent to the fuel pump from the main fuel relay. There should be a yellow wire that doesn't go under that access panel, but there is an electrical connector nearby for the wire harness. You want use a volt meter to see if that wire gets 12V when you turn the key to the II position.
Not sure what FR stand for, but that is the fuel float mechanism. That panel was in the trunk near the back seat on my 95. Thought the 90-93 had it in the same location.
You will have to drop the tank to get to the fuel pump.
I would not do that just yet. You want to figure out if there is power being sent to the fuel pump from the main fuel relay. There should be a yellow wire that doesn't go under that access panel, but there is an electrical connector nearby for the wire harness. You want use a volt meter to see if that wire gets 12V when you turn the key to the II position.