I cant get my 91 accord ex-r to start at all. the whole thing started when it 'died' on the hwy. i wasn't driving it, so i don't know what lead up to it stalling. it just didn't start back and it was towed.

so now i'm trying to start it and it turns over, and sputters, but won't start. think of it cycling through with a sputter at the end of each cycle..actually i should note that i am boosting it to start it, the battery was drained from sitting awile apparently.

the only problem i've had was that about a month before, after a trip of a few days i came back and the battery was dead. got it boosted and i roared away, i wrote that off against the fact that it was -25 for the time I was away and the door light is wonky sometimes and stays on..i was running to catch a flight so can't be sure if i made certain it was off.

someone suggested the alternator, but in my mind the car should still start while connected to the booster vehicle, and would die shortly after disconnecting, right? nor the fuel pump, i don't think it's that because i hear a short whirring when i turn the acc on..

 

If it's turning over normally then you should have enough juice to start it.... have you checked for spark?

 

yeah thought of that...but didn't check..does make the most sense though, it's turning over but no spark so no ignition..

But since I replaced the rotor, cap, plugs and wires less than 6 months ago, that was the last thing I considered..all oem stuff so it still should be alright

unless of course, it's the ignition module?

 

I had the same problem on my Honda. I would try to look at the Ground Cable on the Harness that connects to the ECU. That was my problem. The ECU is on the Passanger Side Floor Board..

-Anthony

 

You either have a spark or fuel pressure problem.

The easiest way to check for spark is to pull a plug wire with a spark plug and ground it to the engine block. If you see a bright spark when trying to start, then everything is ok for spark. If not, then you'll have to work backwards to find the problem.

The other part is adequate fuel pressure. Try to listen to the fuel pump whirl when you turn the key to I. You might have to take the gas cap off to hear it. If you don't hear the fuel pump, then you'll have to check for battery voltage at the pump on the black/yellow wire.

 

Oh. My. *&$^*&@*(&(*@!!!

I can't believe this. It makes so much sense...I'm going to have to go back over there and check this! A month or so back the blower on the heater appeared to have gone, so I was taking it out and of course guess what else is over there?

Really weird thing is when I took the blower off, I had a brainstorm to try it one last time while unbolted (mainly because I used a little cpu fan and determined that the signal to the motor was ok)...it worked, so I bolted it back in...ever since it has worked on and off so I left the passenger side of the dash off (ie the glove compartment etc)....when the fan cuts out, I hit the housing with the snowbrush and it comes back on (OK DONT LAUGH).....I bet you I disturbed the ECU somehow...gahh!!!

I feel so stupid. I hope for $ factor this is problem...but for embarrassment factor it doesn't get much worse!! :S

 

that's sweet..... reach over and hit it with a brush.....classic move right there.... I'm not one to speak though since I once repaired some shift linkage on a 81 citation with a paper clip.....

 

Does the check engine light come on for two seconds when you turn the key to on?

Do you have any codes stored in your ECU or is the Check Engine light on? I would check for error codes just to be safe.

Hitting the blower motor to get it to work most likely means that the motor brushes are worn out and the blower motor will likely need to be replaced.

 

LOL...my ground pin was loose so I had to put a little twisted in it to make it work...So Good Luck..

 

if there is no spark, first off make sure that the timing belt did not brake,, if belt is ok, you need to test the ignitor and the coil, both inside the distributor,,
remove the distr get a test lite, put the key on, make sure thjat with the key on there is power at both sods of the coil..
if there is
put 1 lead of the test lite to any ground, the other to the neg side of the coil, have someone crank the engine,, if the test lite pulses you got a bad coil
if test lite does NOT pulse you got a bad ignitor