Ok, every once in a while when I try to start my car my engine light comes on and won't go out. When this happens no start. I also don't hear the second click from the fuel pump solenoid. Sometimes my d4 light flashes as well, but not always. I checked the ecu codes and got a solid on, no flashes. I do get tcu codes 1,2,3,7,8. Well that's obviously not all gonna go at once. If I take the key out and wait a few minutes, then usually it will start. Sometimes takes 2 or 3 tries. I checked the fuel pump solenoid and it looks good, no cold solder joints.
When everything is working good I get no codes at all, and the car works great. Just a few times a week this will happen. Usually more in the hot weather. If anybody has any idea I would appreciate some help.

Thanks
craven

 

It sounds like either problem with the transmission computer or the engine computer.

Check the backup/radio fuse and also the ECU fuse to be sure the fuse isn't blown. Removing the 7.5 amp back/radio in the engine bay fuse box will erase engine and transmission codes as well. I think the ECU fuse is in the engine bay fuse box as well, but I am not sure.

 

I checked those fuses you suggested, and they're ok. Anybody know how to test the ecu or tcu?

Thanks PAhonda much appreciated

 

The description you gave of the check engine light turning on, but no codes leads me to believe that the ECU is the problem. There are no definitive tests that you will say the ECU is bad. You can take a look at the circuit board to see if any components are bad, but the board my look fine.

I would disconnect the battery. Clean all ends of both battery cables and clean the battery posts. Reconnect the battery. Then have a parts store test the battery/alternator/starter. A drop in voltage can cause electronic components to not work correctly. It simple and free.

When the car does not start, does the starter turn the engine?

You should also get in the habit of listening for the fuel pump to prime. Turn the key to the II position, but do not try to start the car. While the check engine light does the bulb check, the fuel pump should turn on for about two seconds. The sound is a faint whirling/buzzing sound that comes from the back seat, so turn off the radio, blower, etc. and listen carefully. Let us know if that sound is present when the car is not starting.

I would also go on to car-part.com. Search for used ECUs by price or distance to get an idea of what is available locally and the cost. I hate suggesting throwing parts at the car, but at least you will have an idea of the cost.

 

Thanks again PA.
I did have someone mention to me before that a voltage drop can cause problems, so I have cleaned the terminals. But never had someone check the starter, alt or battery. The battery seems to be fine. But I will check that .
As for when it does not start, the starter engages fine. It just acts like there's no fuel.
I always can tell when it won't start, there should be two clicks from the FP solenoid. I will get the first but not the second. And I can not hear the fuel pump.
I was looking at ecu's on ebay, it's a crap shoot though. I need to match ecu# 37820-PT6-A51
Side note, It FAILED miserably on my emissions test today

I will take your advice on the starter, alt and battery and have them checked tomorrow hopefully.

Thanks PAhonda

Craven

 

Once I thought the main relay was fine but upon really really close inspection it wasn't.

I also had the car on ON but not START without the main relay plugged in once and it gave a constant CEL with a blinking D4 light. Not sure if this has any bearing on your case.

I went ahead and resoldered all of the small joints anyway because the joints were either anemic or cracked (one or two of them were upon very close inspection, almost unnoticeable and certainly didn't look like the pictures online, actually cracked farther up). The intermittent no-start disappeared and hasn't returned since even on the hottest of days.

 

Hmm, food for thought. I'm sure a relay is alot cheaper than an ecu. I will have to check that out too. Thanks guys

Craven

 

Maybe you can get the Autozone Main Relay made by Wells Mfg. (The Duralast one) and just test if you can get this to go away and if so you can either keep it or return it and repair your other one or get a replacement from another source if you don't like the price Autozone has for it.

 

The ECU number you listed is for a 92 EX automatic with fed emissions (all but California).

The 37820-PT6-A5? should all work on your car. The A51, A52, etc.. are updated versions of the same component. The car-part.com site will list compatible ECUs that are compatible for your accord.

The ECU does ground that main relay to turn on the fuel pump to pressurize the system.

What was the reason your car failed emissions?

 

My car is a 92 accord EXR wagon. 214,000Kms. The one with ABS and 4 wheel disc brakes. It is a Canadian model, I think the EX is the American version. Not sure though. The part PT6-A51 is what I read on the ECU. Someone said just match the numbers and your good. But it's nice to know there are others that will work.
Tonite I am gonna borrow a fuel pump relay from a buddy who has a 93. He drives it everyday with no issue. That should let me know for sure.

Not sure yet why the emmisions failed, but the numbers were bad.

jan 2010 test
HC ppm limit 58, result 13
CO% limit 0.32, result 0.01
NO ppm limit 435, result 116

Yesterdays
HC ppm limit 58, result 69
CO% limit 0.32, result 0.49
NO ppm limit 435, result 1181

Gonna change the cat and O2, and plugs and wires. I hope that does it.

Love that car-part.com site by the way.

Thanks again
Craven