I swapped out my stock transmission on my 2002 honda accord se automatic with a jdm transmission. Now getting error codes and its locked in 4th gear. Had codes read and said I needed to replace solenoid A, which I did, but didnt fix the problem. Any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

 

What was the specific trouble code number(s)?

Also, were the JDM connectors' wiring all the same connector's wiring as the stock unit?

 

Don't remember exact code but it said solenoid A error, clutch not engaging or something like that. Used connectors off honda tranny. Bought new solenoid A but didnt fix.

 

1. Did you flush the transmission fluid cooler that is part of the radiator before installing the replacement transmission? If not, debris may have been left inside and got circulated into the replacement.

What did the o-ring screens on the solenoid look like when you pulled the old one out? Were they clogged with debris?

2. Have you also checked the fluid level?

3. Although you did not post the actual trouble code number(s), the trouble code(s) can indicate an issue with the circuit and does not necessarily mean a bad solenoid.

This link has some info. on testing the solenoids. The solenoid assembly is made up of two solenoids. One is the torque converter clutch solenoid and the other is the shift solenoid A.

Part 1 -How to Test: TCC Solenoid and Shift Solenoid A (Honda 2.2L, 2.3L)

This other is partially from the service manual regarding

DTC P0753: Problem in Shift Solenoid Valve A Circuit

1. Turn the ignition switch OFF.
2. Disconnect PCM connectors B (25P) and D (16P).
3. Turn the ignition switch ON (II).
4. Measure the voltage between the D7 (Blu/Yel wire) and B20 (Brn/Blk wire) or B22 (Brn/Blk wire) terminals.

Is there voltage?
YES - Repair short to power in the wire between the D7 terminal and the shift solenoid valve A. •
NO - Go to step 5.
5. Turn the ignition switch OFF.
6. Measure the resistance between the D7and B20 or B22 terminals.

Is the resistance 12-25 Ω?
YES - Go to step 11.
NO - Go to step 7.
7. Check for continuity between the B20 and B22 terminals and body ground.
Is there continuity?
YES - Go to step 8.
NO - Repair open in the wires between the B20 and B22 terminals and ground (G101).•
8. Disconnect the torque converter clutch solenoid valve/shift solenoid valve A 2P connector.
9. Check for continuity between the D7 and B20 or B22 terminals.

Is there continuity?
YES - Repair short to ground in the wire between the D7 terminal and shift solenoid valve A. •
NO - Go to step 10.
10. Measure the resistance between the No.2 terminal of the torque converter clutch solenoid valve/shift solenoid valve A connector and body ground.

Is the resistance 12-25 Ω?
YES - Check for open in the wire between the D7 terminal and shift solenoid valve A. •
NO - Replace the torque converter clutch solenoid valve/shift solenoid valve A. •
11. Turn the ignition switch ON (II).
12. Measure the voltage between the D5 (Blk/Yel wire) and B20 or B22 terminals.

Is there battery voltage?
YES - Check for loose terminal fit in the PCM connectors. If necessary, substitute a known-good PCM and recheck. •
NO - Check for blown No.6 (15A) fuse in the driver's under-dash fuse/relay box. If the fuse is OK, repair open in the wire between the D5 terminal and the driver's under-dash fuse/relay box.•

 

One thing I can tell you to check right now, and that is the black, and brown connectors on the two paired solenoids.

There should be two solenoids almost where the engine meets the trans. Then two more paired at the rear of the trans, on the same side as the others.

The wiring connectors WILL swap between the two pairs. Most connectors only fit a single solenoid so someone can't make a mistake, and put the wrong wiring con on the wrong solenoid.

But, in this case, you CAN put the wrong connectors on the wrong solenoids, and they WILL fit.

So its possible that you got the connectors connected backwards. Just take a look to see if the wires going to the rear connectors are kinda tight as they should have plenty of length. Or, just reverse the connections, and give it a try. CAUTION: Be sure to drive slowly on a road with no traffic. Just get enough speed to let the trans change gears.

The reason I know this is that I made that mistake just after putting a rear main seal in the engine, and a front pump seal in the trans.

What happened was that the car would change gears from first to second, then when it changed to third it was like hitting the brakes hard, and sometimes it would lock the trans up. I got the trans unlocked by putting the shifter into reverse, and giving it a little gas, then back to park, then down to 1, etc until the trans unlocked.