I have had this 99 accord for one year and it has consistently burned 1 qt of oil per every 150-200 miles. I top off the oil when I fill the tank and at half a tank I have to add 1 quart. A tank of gas gets me 3-400 miles depending on driving. With that much oil consumption I have convinced myself this is not valve seals.whats more is the intake manifold has a large amount of sludge buildup inside if it where it is being sucked back through intake,( yes I changed the pcv valve). compression test was good the two different times I checked it and the leak down showed no issues. I have decided either I will have the engine replaced with a used engine or I will remove the pistons and and so long as the cylinder walls look good I will replace the rings and clean the pistons and put it back together. First though I am going to try to decarbon the rings. I have seen some people have some sucess with piston soaks of MMO and or seafoam. I have done one MMO soak shortly after I got the car and no change but it was a onetime overnight soak. This time I am using seafoam and I am going to leave it for days and keep it refilled. I put seafoam in the crankcase, ran it about an hour and half including a 40 mile highway trip, 20 miles to the next town let it idle for about 30 minutes , then 20 miles back. I let it cool for about 30 minutes then filled each cylinder with seafoam til it could be seen lapping just under the plug hole , then put the plugs in to keep it from evaporating. I am going to jack the front of the car up tomorrow and take the driver wheel off so that I can access the crank pulley bolt and each evening I will hand turn the engine and top off the pistons. I also have a gallon of MMO that I may follow up with for week long soak after the seafoam week. between the two different piston soaks i am going to run can of bg 109 , drain the oil , then another bg109 after the second soak cycle before a fresh oil change and see what results may be. I am considering using rotella synthetic for that oci and make it a short 500-700 mile interval. Or maybe I should up my insurance coverage and ............

 

hats off to you on plan going forward. no same experience here so post up results...
But, don't know anybody with that much oil burn, is there a blue fog following your car?

On synthetic oil change. I switched to synthetic (Amsoil) on '93 Accord @ 185,000 miles.
Started an oil leak into distributor and from VCG within 1000 miles. Beware.

 

The power steering pulley bolt usually provides enough traction to turn the engine over, especially w/o sparkplugs.

F23s are cheap at junkyards due to automatic transmissions that die before the rest of the car's even broken in. Supply & demand has < 125K-mile engines going for $250 to $400 around here; probably cheaper than just the parts for a re-ring.

 

I have started noticing more smoke in recent months when getting on the highway . I imagine by this point the cat is coated and not doing much to clean the exhaust . I have to replace the intake manifold gasket as well and will thoroughly clean the intake and remove the totally clogged egr tubes and clean them as well. I may end up replacing the engine , however even if that ends up being the case I need to see the inside of this one because I just have to know. I have to know what the inside of that engine looks like before I trash it. I cant let it go without an autopsy. I will post updates and activity.

 

Pics of the cylinder walls and ring grooves would be helpful. After having some success with an MMO treatment, my guess is the the ring grooves get carboned up because of infrequent oil changes and the oil rings get stuck, leading to oil being sucked into the combustion chamber.

 

If I do end up having to go as far as tearing into the engine ( very likely as I am thinking these rings are so caked up that a piston soak wont fix the issue, then I will take pics. the car has been burning the same amount of oil since I got it .If I had not checked the oil a few days after getting the car, I would not have noticed the oil consumption and would have run it out and killed it. I immediately did a b12 crank case treatment and changed the oil to m1 with m1 filter. I soon stopped using m1 as that stuff is so expensive that at the rate I was burining it , I was spending nearly as much in oil as gas. I was adding mmo into the oil at 25%. when I would have to add a quart, i would grab one of my old m1 quart bottles , add 1/4 mmo then the rest oil. after a few months I gave up on it ever doing any good and I seriously doubt this will do any good either. I have to try though. BTW thanks for the tip about the ps pulley . I dont know why I never thought of that. would have come in handy when I did my leak down test.

 

Just curious.... I know that previously I had come across posts mentioning that this engine very rarely needs to be honed when replacing piston rings. If it should go that far, can some one advise me on doing an inframe re-ring?from my understanding I should be able to remove the connecting rod end caps and push the pistons through the top, throroughly clean the lands and install the new rings , then bring the pistons back down and re-attach the end caps.

 

For my part, I would never attempt to rering in this day and age. Why? Because if you're going to go to all of the trouble of engine disassembly/reassembly, you might just as well do the job right and rebuild the motor. If you're not ready to go that far, it is probably better/cheaper to simply replace the motor with one from a wrecked car.