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Machinist (& noob) in Western Colorado

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Old Apr 7, 2013 | 07:41 PM
  #1  
Bears+'s Avatar
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From: Western Colorado
Default Machinist (& noob) in Western Colorado

Cheers, greetings, and misc. salutations from us, "us" being a couple, just the generic garden-variety type m/f couple, no kids, two dogs, I'm a machinist, she's a cashier, the 1995 LX is hers.

Haven't seen our first post yet so here's the low-down on the up-low, or car, or whatever if this info shows in the sig line I'm sorry for producing more spam than a Vietnam combat breakfast....

1995 Accord LX 4dr 2.2L (the lower-output engine) 5-speed with aprox. 200k miles on it. We bought it for $300 and it seems to be a tight little runner, there was some clunking noise going on, mostly noticable at idle, turns out the water pump was hashed, oh-boy no fun replacing that miserably-positioned component but we got-er-done. My question is this:

"Check Engine" light is on. Yeah I know get the code read, it's free but does the fact that the light is on keep the CC from functioning? I've seen this situation before on other vehicles as sort of a:

"Hey dummy, I'm disabling the CC because you keep ignoring the CE light"

Thanks in advance,

Bears+
 
Old Apr 7, 2013 | 08:53 PM
  #2  
JimBlake's Avatar
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You can read error codes in a 95 (4-cyl) using a paperclip to jumper a wire. In the "General Tech." area there's a sticky post about "Common DIY". In there, is a link to instructions for reading the codes.

If the cruise doesn't work, that suggests the problem might be the vehicle-speed-sensor. But read the codes before running out to buy that part.
 
Old Apr 8, 2013 | 01:05 AM
  #3  
WheelBrokerAng's Avatar
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Hello Colorado couple and welcome to the HAF..

WheelBrokerAng
 
Old Apr 8, 2013 | 12:40 PM
  #4  
Bears+'s Avatar
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From: Western Colorado
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Yeah hey thanks for the welcoming hope we didn't get too ripped off for the $300, lol.

In an amazing stroke of technical diagnostics genius I got the "ABS" light to go out by re-connecting the two wires on top of the brake fluid resevoir, I bet ya'll are highly impressed, huh?

(crickets chirping)
 
Old Apr 8, 2013 | 12:47 PM
  #5  
Dr. Drivability's Avatar
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unlikely the CC and the MIL being on are related on that generation accord.

get the code and report back.
 
Old Apr 8, 2013 | 02:26 PM
  #6  
Bears+'s Avatar
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From: Western Colorado
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Here it is (pic test) hope this works
 
Attached Thumbnails Machinist (& noob) in Western Colorado-95-accord.jpg  
Old Apr 9, 2013 | 02:34 PM
  #7  
Bears+'s Avatar
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From: Western Colorado
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Next step: Get rid of the fartcan muffler, what a way to punk-up a perfectly good vehicle by making it sound like a kazoo.
 
Old Apr 9, 2013 | 03:25 PM
  #8  
shipo's Avatar
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Originally Posted by Bears+
Next step: Get rid of the fartcan muffler, what a way to punk-up a perfectly good vehicle by making it sound like a kazoo.
Quoted for truth.
 
Old May 15, 2013 | 03:51 AM
  #9  
Bears+'s Avatar
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From: Western Colorado
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Hey I'm back, didn't get the code(s) read but man, is this thing pipey. It has a sweet spot at about 4,200 rpms but to get it going from a dead stop you have really coil it up, especially with the a/c on. Is that normal? I'm almost certain the entire exhuast system is aftermarket.
 
Old May 16, 2013 | 06:01 PM
  #10  
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From: Kenton, TN
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The 5th gen's are pretty solid cars IMO.

First, the 95 is OBD-I so there is no scanner to get the codes. So stopping by autozone will not do you any good. As Jim stated, a paperclip or piece of wire and jump the service connector and start counting the flashing light(s).

You have codes so some things maybe related....a vss code will keep the CC from working....a bad o2 may cause performance issues.

You just got the car, know that the tune up items (cap, rotor, plugs, inspect wires) should be done ~every 24K miles. If you are not sure, change them to rule them out and set a baseline.

Next, going to need that service connector, if the wp was replaced I'd want to check the timing. To check the timing you'll need a timing light - of course - and when checking it the service connector has to be jumped so that the ecu isn't adjusting it as you are trying to read/set it.
 
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