Thanks guys.... I love this forum and will keep you posted

 

Hi,

I took my Accord to Honda. They say it is leaking tranny fluid...which would explain also why I noticed it on my garage floor last night. They say it needed 3 things... mostly to do with the clutch, like master clutch cylinder and something else as well as fluid replacement. They feel that should resolve my issue and do not feel it is my transmission but won't really know until that work is done. Keep my fingers crossed.

 

^ .... master and slave cylinders and new fluid? just happened to a friend of mine as well. He had trouble engaging 1st and R. May also need a new clutch, but the cylinders and fluid have to be fixed to tell. If you never had any slipping, I'd expect the clutch to be ok.

 

When the clutch slips, that means it's getting too thin - the friction material has worn away.

This problem would indicate (if it's not the hydraulic system) a dragging clutch. That could be a warped clutch disk, which is possible even if ithasn't wornthin.

 

?? A worn clutch with thin linings won't drag unless there is an additional problem. If anything a thin clutch will disengage more easily with less pedal travel than a new clutch.

 

^^^ ..... this is why I'm thinking it's just the cylinders ..... or a leak in a connection causing bad hydraulic pressure.

Best case (somewhat likely): Bad slave cylinder only
Most likely case: Bad master and slave cylinders
Worst case: Bad cylinders, clutch and warped flywheel


The flywheel is likely not warped bad enough that it can't be resurfaced. My bet is that the clutch and flywheel are ok and the tranny doesn't have to be removed.

 

JohnL,
Falk said if the clutch isn't slipping, then it's OK. I was pointing out that a clutch can drag even if it's not worn thin enough to slip.

Falk,
It's the clutch disk (not the flywheel) that can warp more easily, causing the clutch to drag. Sometimes parts of the disk& it's hub can come apart, dragging on the flywheel& PP.

And I meant this tostuff to be considered AFTER rulingout hydraulic problems (master/slave/fluid, etc.)

 

Thanks for the clarification Jim ..... I've always heard that when keeping the flywheel and doing a clutch that you resurface the flywheel to eliminate slight warping. The clutch disk does make more sense, but isn't that part of changing the clutch?

 

Ok back up...

His original description sounds to me like it would be a dragging clutch.The most likely reason for dragging (& easiest to fix) is problems in the external hydraulic system. People have already talked about that & I'm not suggesting to ignore that advice.

Then you said if his clutch isn't slipping, then the clutch itself is OK. That's where I wanted to point out that slipping isn't the only way a clutch can go bad. It can drag (for a couple different reasons) EVEN THO it's not worn thin enough to slip.

Yes, resurfacing the flywheel is good to do when you change the clutch. He hasn't changed his clutch, butthis thread may lead him to do the clutch job. (Depending on whether the external hydraulic repairs are successful in fixing it.)

 

I got it back. It shifts into all the gears now, but not as smoothly as I would have expected, though I no longer have to fight. It's been fine, but this morning, 20 minutes into my drive my check engine light comes on... figures... I pulled over, turned it off, looked under the hood, panicked thinking maybe something sprung a leak and checked. Checked my oil and any leaks, none. Turned the car back on and it is fine so far.

Just seems odd that the light now comes on when it never has before. Also, since this is my first manual transmission, should the shifting be super smooth, or is a small noticeable friction normal when entering a gear?