Thank you for the EGR port cleaning video, PAhonda. NGK plugs replaced 6 mos ago, dist cap/rotor replaced 2 mos ago, mid-level AutoZone brand. I removed/inspected PGM-FI relay: it looked rather burned, as other photos I've seen. Had actual brown, crusty, burned residue around a few of the solder joints. I gently scraped all that away and lightly re-soldered all the contacts, reinstalled, and at least car started back up fine. No sign of intermittent fault as of yet, but my stalling only occurs every few days, maybe 2 days in a row at best. I'm going to clean out some electrical connectors with proper electrical spray cleaner today, check the ECT sensor, and probably tackle the EGR port cleaning. That does look fairly easy. Later!

 

Okay: After resoldering PGM-FI Main Relay PCB contacts, it started up yesterday with a very slow-to-spin starter, but it did start. Then it faultered a bit but kept running until it warmed up. I didn't test drive it.

This morning, it didn't even crank, or click when attempting to start. The only other think I did was to spray out 3 connectors near the dist, and the ECT connector. I let them dry out very well first.

I reset the ECM pulling the 7.5 Amp fuse under the hood, no effect.

So now I've taken 2 steps back, but at least I can hopefully trace this no-start much easier. I will search forums for diagnostics. Rats!

 

Btw, I made a trip to a salvage yard and picked up a replacement Main Relay and a few other relays, door lock actuator while at it. Installing the replacement Main Relay had no effect. Still a no start, no click.

 

The starter has two wires going to it. One is the positive battery cable. The other is the starter signal wire that is small black wire with a white stripe.

That blk/wht wire should have 12V going to it when you try to start the car. All you need is a volt meter and an assistant to test. Use the neg battery post as your ground.

The main fuel relay has nothing to do with your starting problem.

 

Thank you PAhonda. I will check that out and report back. May have to be tomorrow, tho. Previously concerned, I also replaced the positive battery cable post clamp with a clean brass one, cutting back positive cable wires about an inch for clean connection. No effect. Later!

p.s. 12.4V is getting to the Main Relay connector. Will check starter signal.

 

Completed starter signal wire test: It's getting voltage. Not a full 12, but like 10.3v. Don't know if cleaning the signal wire clip would make a difference. Considering next move would be 12v jumper wire bypass starter test. Sounds like I need a new solenoid/starter. Makes sense, and that would be great if that's the solution! Please advise. Thank you!

 

If you had 12V on that wire, then I would say definitely replace the solenoid. Verify you volt meter is reading proper voltage by testing the battery.

Is your car not starting anymore, or is the problem still intermittent?

The stalling while driving, points towards a faulty electrical portion of the ignition switch as TexasHonda pointed out.

 

Next time the starter dosn't work, hit it with a broomstick or something. If that kicks it into running, then replace the starter or it's solenoid.

 

PAhonda and Jim Blake, thank you. It is not starting at all now. No click or anything, but all dash lights operating as normal thru start/run key turn sequence. Battery reading 12.4v at posts. I've already begun to remove old starter/solenoid combo. AutoZone has in stock locally. I'm going to replace unit and hopefully that will allow initial start once again. Then will have to deal with possible intermittent issue after, which surely may be in the ignition circuit. Now I'm thinking that maybe I didn't mess up the original Main Relay by remelting the solder joints after all, if it is not involved in the start process, PAhonda We'll see. I will post back when new starter/solenoid installed and tested. Thank you SO MUCH guys!

 

Woohoo! She started right up with new starter/solenoid. Now I get to go to work tomorrow . Seriously, thanks to everyone who posted advice. It allowed specific, efficient diagnostics to get me going again. There wasn't a hint of stalling effect upon initial start and 10 min. warm-up. If that resurfaces, after I had also just replaced the older, resoldered PGM-FI Main Relay with another, better-looking salvage unit, then I will look to the ignition switch circuit as TexasHonda pointed out. My key is pretty loose in there and worn down ALOT anyway, something I've worried about previously.

Thanks again VERY MUCH!