Not sure how comfy you are with salvaged Parts But honda Parts hold their worth pretty well. I scored My relay for 12.00 at One of My local bone yards. You would be amazed how many new Parts are really on these cars. Hondas get picked clean fast ESP this relay starters and alternators. At any este just wanted to share

 

I agree RedsHonda, and make regular use of the boneyards around here in Houston. The other day I got a PGM-FI Main Relay, an Interlock Control unit, a Power Door Lock unit, and a Power Door Lock Actuator all for $35. A few months ago, even found replacement rear door shell (all internals removed including window glass) in excellent condition with exact matching paint to replace a damaged one on car now, for $45. Haven't done that job yet.

And so my car is starting up just fine now after new starter/solenoid, but intermittent stalling, RPM's to zero when warming up, happened yesterday after car sat in parking lot at work for 5 hrs in the sun on a 65 degree day. It only died once, then warmed up and ran fine rest of day. AutoZone stocks the Ignition switch for $45, but I may go back to local salvage yard and try a used one first if I can find one. Bet they charge $5-7 for it.

 

I decided to remove/inspect the distributor since I have a decent oil leak nearby. See pics. I disassembled, cleaned well with electrical spray and reassembled, but have yet to reinstall distributor. While inspecting the oil cover and rotor, I think the rotor is warped. Have heard this can happen with engine vibrations. I'm going to order a new dist from Rock Auto regardless, and not just replace the seals, but I wanted to show you what I found. Surely this amount of oil inside the dist is not good for it, and can affect normal operation. Check out the new "inner groove" on the oil cover....I'm surprised it ran at all!

 

When we mentioned the electrical part of the ignition switch, the mechanical part (worn key comment earlier) is used again. You can go to your local Honda dealership and they will cut you a new key based on your VIN number. I think the cost was ~$10 for the Honda key.

 

Reinstalled old, cleaned-up dist, started right up and didn't die at least this time when warming up. Researched remove/install procedure, and you gotta love the OBDII ('96 and above) easy reinstall because the ECU controls timing, so no worries there. Drove around town and it seems to accelerated more smoothly now as well (or I'm just imagining it). I think I will drive it for another week or so and see if it stalls out again. I can afford a new dist better in another week anyway.

I would have gotten a new dealer key a long time ago if I new they were THAT inexpensive. And just because the key is worn down, does that mean the tumbler pins inside are NOT? So in other words, a new key will work better than a worn one, even without replacing the cylinder? Thank you PAhonda!

 

I would guess that the key is the softer metal, so the key would wear out first. If the key turns the ignition switch without any problems, then you have nothing to worry about mechanically with the key and tumbler.

My worn key worked just as well as my new key on my old 95 accord.

On a side note, what junk yards are good in the Houston area? I've gone to LKQ up on 45 and in southwest for a part on my grandfather's car that I mailed home for him.

 

There are times when I will insert old ignition key and it will not turn on 1st attempt, so that I have to back it out (no problem there) and then turn more carefully and precisely. I blame myself for my "haste", but I know it shouldn't be sticking at all. I called local dealer, they verified new key option, but their key machine for older Honda's isn't up to spec, but I could visit other dealer. They also confirmed tumblers usually wear slower than keys.

PAhonda: I've had decent luck at that LKQ on 45 as well, and at an LKQ on Wallisville on the SE side near 610 and I-10, but my favorite is a U-Pick U-Pull on Shaver in Pasadena. They currently have several (6-7) '94-'97 Accords out there. One of those LKQ's is near a local city dump or something as I recall, and if the wind is blowing the wrong way, its quite unpleasant. Like the greasy dumpsters behind some restaurants.

 

Sometimes it sounds as if maybe the tumblers in the lock cylinder might need some lubrication??

 

Thanks for the reminder, JimBlake. I used to do that to door lock cylinders using dry graphite lube, but I stopped years ago when someone said it can lead to "gumming up" the cylinders. Don't know if that's true or not. I will get a new key made just to see how it works, and will most likely replace entire cylinder/key assembly prior to gifting it to a young female relative in need of reliable transportation. I think I want a replacement EX model with a sunroof anyway .

FYI - I performed the EGR port cleaning as described in prior CarGuy video. It was very easy and kinda fun! If completely clogged is 100%, mine was only about 15% (@ 175K mi.), but it felt good to clean it all up regardless. Car fired up fine, still didn't stall as it has before. I'm planning a Seafoam procedure soon. Other than that, I will drive it rigorously over the next week to see how it performs, then decide on new distributor or not. I think I will after all. I noticed I had a boneyard ICM in there, so to get new dist with new ICM and seals....I should do that since I can afford to. Thanks for all the replies and assistance!

 

Dry graphite should be OK, even graphite in alcohol because the alcohol evaporates leaving the dry graphite.

If the lock cylinder is sticking because of corrosion, you might have to oil it & work the key in & out repeatedly to get rid of the rust. Then use alcohol or something to get rid of the oil. Then graphite. At some point the time you spend on it becomes worse than paying for a new cylinder...