Multiplex location?
Thread Starter
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Been Around A Long Time Member
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 1,653
From: Tennessee
Multiplex location?
Hello. I am troubleshooting a no tail lights / no dash lights problem with my 97 Accord.
Where is the multiplex located? Is it on the fuse panel under the hood?
Thank you.
Where is the multiplex located? Is it on the fuse panel under the hood?
Thank you.
Thread Starter
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Been Around A Long Time Member
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 1,653
From: Tennessee
IDK - I am trying very hard to get the tail lights / dash lights / parking lights to work on this 97 Accord.
It blows the 15 amp fuse under the hood as soon as the lights are turned on.
I have unplugged the after market radio - taillights
I do not know what to do.
It blows the 15 amp fuse under the hood as soon as the lights are turned on.
I have unplugged the after market radio - taillights
I do not know what to do.
Super Moderator
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 18,398
From: Wisconsin
I think you'll have to unplug as much as you can, then measure resistance to ground at each place. Measure things one-by-one, and/or plug things in one-by-one, measure each time, to narrow down which part of the wiring is touching ground.
The PDF manual should give you some guidance about where all the connectors are located, so you can unplug sections of the wiring harness.
The PDF manual should give you some guidance about where all the connectors are located, so you can unplug sections of the wiring harness.
Super Moderator
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 16,328
From: Houston, TX
A short in the wiring will be tough to figure out. Inspect the wiring around the bulbs.
The #32 fuse (15 amp dash, parking lights) fuse is routed through the combination switch on the steering column.
If no recent work has been done on the car (or an accident), then I would suspect a short in the switch. I am not sure if you can clean then replace the dielectric grease inside, like my sister's grand am.
A new one will run ~$50 from a parts store, ~$70 from online honda parts store, or ~$100 from a dealership. A junkyard one would be an inexpensive option. I hate throwing parts at a car, but a cheap junkyard part may save you a bunch of time troubleshooting to rule out the switch.
The #32 fuse (15 amp dash, parking lights) fuse is routed through the combination switch on the steering column.
If no recent work has been done on the car (or an accident), then I would suspect a short in the switch. I am not sure if you can clean then replace the dielectric grease inside, like my sister's grand am.
A new one will run ~$50 from a parts store, ~$70 from online honda parts store, or ~$100 from a dealership. A junkyard one would be an inexpensive option. I hate throwing parts at a car, but a cheap junkyard part may save you a bunch of time troubleshooting to rule out the switch.
Thread Starter
|
Been Around A Long Time Member
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 1,653
From: Tennessee
A short in the wiring will be tough to figure out. Inspect the wiring around the bulbs.
The #32 fuse (15 amp dash, parking lights) fuse is routed through the combination switch on the steering column.
If no recent work has been done on the car (or an accident), then I would suspect a short in the switch. I am not sure if you can clean then replace the dielectric grease inside, like my sister's grand am.
A new one will run ~$50 from a parts store, ~$70 from online honda parts store, or ~$100 from a dealership. A junkyard one would be an inexpensive option. I hate throwing parts at a car, but a cheap junkyard part may save you a bunch of time troubleshooting to rule out the switch.
The #32 fuse (15 amp dash, parking lights) fuse is routed through the combination switch on the steering column.
If no recent work has been done on the car (or an accident), then I would suspect a short in the switch. I am not sure if you can clean then replace the dielectric grease inside, like my sister's grand am.
A new one will run ~$50 from a parts store, ~$70 from online honda parts store, or ~$100 from a dealership. A junkyard one would be an inexpensive option. I hate throwing parts at a car, but a cheap junkyard part may save you a bunch of time troubleshooting to rule out the switch.
I am with you as I hate throwing parts at a car too. I think I will order a combo switch tomm. Napa has them for $55.99, Autozone wants $72.99
I hope it fixes the problem as this car is for my girl to drive and she works at night.
Thank you for the help.
Thread Starter
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Been Around A Long Time Member
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 1,653
From: Tennessee
I replaced the headlight switch...still does not work. Nothing changed. It blows the fuse as soon as the switch hits the parking light detent.
PLEASE O PLEASE HELP ME. What do I need to do next? Please
PLEASE O PLEASE HELP ME. What do I need to do next? Please
Super Moderator
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 18,398
From: Wisconsin
Have you gone through unplugging sections of the circuit & re-checking resistance to ground? That's the first step to actually finding out where the short is located.
Unplug the new switch to see if it still shorts to ground. That'll tell you whether the short is "upstream" or "downstream" of the switch.
Unplug the new switch to see if it still shorts to ground. That'll tell you whether the short is "upstream" or "downstream" of the switch.