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Old Sep 28, 2010 | 07:28 PM
  #31  
crispin's Avatar
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From: Tennessee
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FIXED!!!!
Thank you everyone for your suggestions.

I was getting very upset trying to fix what was causing the problem.

I decided to take another route and just focus on fixing the problem.

The problem is the car had no taillights, lic plate lights, or dash lights.

To fix the problem I ran a wire from the fuse box to the trunk, spliced into both of the larger taillights sockets, then I found the wire that ran up into the truck lid (red/black) and spliced into that one. That powered up all the lights on the trunk including the lic lights and the smaller taillights.

Then I went inside the car and ran another wire from the fusebox to the dimmer switch and powered up the solid red wire there. Now all the dash, a/c, and cig lighter lights powered up.

I am not going to worry about the front yellow lights but if I do ever want to power them up I will just tap them into the headlight wire.

So bottom line for me, when the car is on, all necessary lights are on. I jumped into the fuse box the correct way (the load side of the fuse not the supply) All wires are ran under the trim. Nothing can be seen. I am 100% happy.

Thank you again everyone.
 
Old Sep 28, 2010 | 08:21 PM
  #32  
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From: Kenton, TN
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Not the way I would want it to be resolve BUT IT IS FIXED....I call that a victory any day. Congrats.

EDIT: I will say that powering those lights and the fuse is still good, is strange (load vs supply). If you ever try the "others" and the issue comes back that does help as to where the issue might be.
 

Last edited by poorman212; Sep 28, 2010 at 08:27 PM.
Old Sep 28, 2010 | 08:51 PM
  #33  
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No I did not connect it to the small fuse that was blowing.
I just connected it to a random 7.5 amp on the fusebox in the drivers footwell

What I was saying is that I used the jury rig method of sticking the end of the wire under the spade of a fuse, but I made sure to use the side of the fuse that woulod blow in case of a short or overload.
 
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