Multiplex location?
Thread Starter
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Been Around A Long Time Member
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 1,653
From: Tennessee
Have you gone through unplugging sections of the circuit & re-checking resistance to ground? That's the first step to actually finding out where the short is located.
Unplug the new switch to see if it still shorts to ground. That'll tell you whether the short is "upstream" or "downstream" of the switch.
Unplug the new switch to see if it still shorts to ground. That'll tell you whether the short is "upstream" or "downstream" of the switch.
how would I unplug the switch and still turn it on to get the circuit to short?
I can place a new fuse (small lights) and it will not blow until I turn the lights on.
Super Moderator
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 16,328
From: Houston, TX
Sorry about the new switch. Thought that could have definitely been your problem.
Looking at the wiring diagram, the other component that is on that fuse is the dash lights brightness controller that is to the right of the cruise control.
Pry the brightness controller out, unplug it, and see if the fuse blows when you try to turn on the lights.
Looking at the wiring diagram, the other component that is on that fuse is the dash lights brightness controller that is to the right of the cruise control.
Pry the brightness controller out, unplug it, and see if the fuse blows when you try to turn on the lights.
Thread Starter
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Been Around A Long Time Member
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 1,653
From: Tennessee
Its ok that I replaced the switch. I got it on ebay for $26 shipped. Not to bad of a loss I was sure hoping that it was going to be the solution tho.
Thread Starter
|
Been Around A Long Time Member
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 1,653
From: Tennessee
Sorry about the new switch. Thought that could have definitely been your problem.
Looking at the wiring diagram, the other component that is on that fuse is the dash lights brightness controller that is to the right of the cruise control.
Pry the brightness controller out, unplug it, and see if the fuse blows when you try to turn on the lights.
Looking at the wiring diagram, the other component that is on that fuse is the dash lights brightness controller that is to the right of the cruise control.
Pry the brightness controller out, unplug it, and see if the fuse blows when you try to turn on the lights.
Super Moderator
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 16,328
From: Houston, TX
I understand that this stuff sucks.
You did get some information though. The circuit between the headlight switch and your gauge lights is not the problem.
The problem is between your headlight switch and your exterior lights.
There are some junction connectors that you can unplug. I will have to look at the 97 manual I have on a CD to locate the connectors.
You did get some information though. The circuit between the headlight switch and your gauge lights is not the problem.
The problem is between your headlight switch and your exterior lights.
There are some junction connectors that you can unplug. I will have to look at the 97 manual I have on a CD to locate the connectors.
Super Moderator
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 18,398
From: Wisconsin
Got a multi-meter? How about a test-lamp? Use them to check whether part of the circuit is shorted to ground instead of blowing fuse after fuse.
Try removing ALL the bulbs from the rear lamp clusters, also the front parking lights. Does it still short to ground (or the fuse blows)? If not, put the bulbs back in one at a time until it blows. That can narrow it down. When you put each bulb back in, inspect the base & socket carefully for problems like frayed wires or junk in the socket that can bridge between 2 of the terminals.
Try removing ALL the bulbs from the rear lamp clusters, also the front parking lights. Does it still short to ground (or the fuse blows)? If not, put the bulbs back in one at a time until it blows. That can narrow it down. When you put each bulb back in, inspect the base & socket carefully for problems like frayed wires or junk in the socket that can bridge between 2 of the terminals.