Hello i have a 91 Honda accord dx 4 cylinder manual trans. Dont know much else about it.. I dont know much about cars except how to change my oil and a tire. ive been having multiple problems with my car. i bought it used and it came with one of the problems.

FIRST!: My idle. When out of gear it constantly goes from 1000rpms to 2.5 rpms and just continues to go up and down. Ive talked to a few people and they said my idle control sensor so i replaced it. still it continues. I figured vacuum leak? Ive heard sucking noise and a whistling sound but i cant figure out where its coming from because its so loud from the high idle. ive checked all my tubing and i cant figure it out...

SECOND: its just started a few months ago when i touch my brakes weather im going 10 mph or 100mph my car shakes VIOLENTLY! ive tried to keep the stress off by slowing down with my gears but i can only use those so much. Its gotten alot worse and any guys that ive asked dont know.

THIRD!: this one just started. When i flick my lights or blinker on the radio will shut off. then come back on a few minutes later. if i turn my blinker on my hed and dash lights will dim and flicker. same if i go over a bump everything will start kind of going off and on. someone told me it could be my alternator, but i havent had a chance to check it out could that be it?

AND ANOTHER I JUST REMEMBERED!!: It keeps over heating when i come to a stop... If i stop at a stoplight/sign It automatically flys up to the red and even past! then when i go again it goes to normal...IIve stopped let it cool down and checked to make sure there was water. it was fine. but i noticed my fan wasnt working. (a while ago it went out and i replaced the relay/fuse whatever it was with a used one) could that be the issue? but if it were actually over heating and getting so hot it passes up the red would it go down so quickly? could my thermostat be bad or is there a serious issue?

Any suggestions would be great. My babys in critical condition and i need some help!!! please and thank you so much for any help!!!

 

welcome to forum.


1st.

2nd. almost always means the front brake rotors are warped / or brake pad material is unevenly deposited on the rotors.
This is common enough, probably wobbles the steering wheel a lot too - don't sweat it, just takes $ to fix
[look in your Sunday paper's ad sections for brake shop / tire shop specials], although yours sounds pretty bad.
Fix is the same for both causes, either:
A) brake shop removes and 'turns' the rotors, probably require new pads, or
B) get new rotors if the existing rotors have been 'turned' once too often. new pads probably too.
Probably $150 - $250 for front brake work = my guess at a shop.

*** Be aware that when you go to a brake shop / mechanic and have them look at your brakes, if they determine the brakes
are unsafe for public highways they are required to deny you your car until the brakes are fixed.

3rd. Worry about this last, but symptoms say it's not the alternator.

Just remembered issue. Fans should come on automatically when the temp rises. So when your temp goes to the red, stop quickly
and see if the fans are turning. then turn car off [I'm going to get internet beat-up for this]. post up status.

while there see if your radiator overflow tank (plastic, connected to the radiator by a hose) has fluid in it [should be half-full or more].
Don't ever open the radiator cap itself when it's hot - will scald you big; cold is fine.
If you need to add fluid buy the pre-diluted antifreeze at any auto-parts store or grocery store ($9-12/gal)

best. longest response ever for me.

 

1st) Cyclic idle is usually vaccuum leak (PCV system, vacuum booster, or other vacuum line open). It can also be caused by dirty throttle plate sticking slightly open, low coolant level, and other things. Start w/ careful check of all vacuum lines and then clean throttle plate and Idle Air Control Valve (IACV). Check DIY forum for guidance.

2) Need to brake pads and rotors. This will require shop help and w/ trapped rotors (rotors inside wheel bearing), it is fairly expensive, probably $150 per wheel.

3) Possibly a faulty stem switch (internal short). New or used stem switch assy would be fix. Needs diagnosis to be sure.

4) It likely is thermostat. Loss of cooling air flow won't cause such a rapid overheating, but stuck closed thermostat will. Fan motor may be dead. Check for 12V to fan w/ AC on (both fans should run). If no AC, you will need to jumper the thermoswitch A connector (on thermostat housing). This should force both fans to run w/ keyswitch On.

You need a shop manual. Check DIY forum, Online Manuals post for a download. Any year from 90-93 will work for a 91 Accord.

good luck

 

Depending on how "violent" #2 is, check the suspension. I'm thinking the radius rods that attach to the lower control arms, & reach way forwards where they're fastened into the frame. That forward end is easy to overlook, and if it comes loose the wheel can actually move towards the rear of the car when the brakes are applied.

It's a long shot, but problems with "warped" brake rotors don't get violent all of a sudden - they gradually get worse.