Need help with my '01 Honda, please!!!!!
#1
Need help with my '01 Honda, please!!!!!
Hello,
I have a '01 Honda Accord EX 4-dr, and this problem just arose out of the blue. The parking lights stay on (e.g., the back lights and front lights - not the headlights), and even though the light switch is off and I remove the ignition key, the chime is sounding advising that the lights are on. No other lights are on in the dashboard. This is mind-boggling. Anyone have any ideas on what could be causing this? Thank you ahead of time for any help that is provided!!
P.S.
It is an automatic with the 3.0 VTEC.
I have a '01 Honda Accord EX 4-dr, and this problem just arose out of the blue. The parking lights stay on (e.g., the back lights and front lights - not the headlights), and even though the light switch is off and I remove the ignition key, the chime is sounding advising that the lights are on. No other lights are on in the dashboard. This is mind-boggling. Anyone have any ideas on what could be causing this? Thank you ahead of time for any help that is provided!!
P.S.
It is an automatic with the 3.0 VTEC.
Last edited by 4drHonda; 04-28-2013 at 03:30 PM.
#2
There are a couple of items that may cause this. The combination switch in the steering column. The taillight relay, or the wiring.
The taillight relay is under the passenger side of the dash board. Unplugging that relay should turn off those lights and save the battery. Or you can disconnect the battery.
If you have a volt meter, you can test for ground on the red/yel wire at the relay. It should be open to ground with the combination light switch turned off.
The taillight relay is under the passenger side of the dash board. Unplugging that relay should turn off those lights and save the battery. Or you can disconnect the battery.
If you have a volt meter, you can test for ground on the red/yel wire at the relay. It should be open to ground with the combination light switch turned off.
#3
There are a couple of items that may cause this. The combination switch in the steering column. The taillight relay, or the wiring.
The taillight relay is under the passenger side of the dash board. Unplugging that relay should turn off those lights and save the battery. Or you can disconnect the battery.
If you have a volt meter, you can test for ground on the red/yel wire at the relay. It should be open to ground with the combination light switch turned off.
The taillight relay is under the passenger side of the dash board. Unplugging that relay should turn off those lights and save the battery. Or you can disconnect the battery.
If you have a volt meter, you can test for ground on the red/yel wire at the relay. It should be open to ground with the combination light switch turned off.
Anyone else have any other ideas on what could be causing this? Thanks again for any and all responses!
#4
There are four pins/wires going to the taillight relay. If the red/yel wire on the relay is "grounded", with the switch off, then that tell us that ground is still being applied to the relay - why, well it could be a bad wire or the switch.
Next, no ground on that wire, then it sounds like a stuck relay...test the relay.
Not sure if that helps in explaining where PA was going and I'm assuming that is where he was based upon the circuit layout. Correct me if I'm wrong PA....Thanks
Next, no ground on that wire, then it sounds like a stuck relay...test the relay.
Not sure if that helps in explaining where PA was going and I'm assuming that is where he was based upon the circuit layout. Correct me if I'm wrong PA....Thanks
#5
There are four pins/wires going to the taillight relay. If the red/yel wire on the relay is "grounded", with the switch off, then that tell us that ground is still being applied to the relay - why, well it could be a bad wire or the switch.
Next, no ground on that wire, then it sounds like a stuck relay...test the relay.
Not sure if that helps in explaining where PA was going and I'm assuming that is where he was based upon the circuit layout. Correct me if I'm wrong PA....Thanks
Next, no ground on that wire, then it sounds like a stuck relay...test the relay.
Not sure if that helps in explaining where PA was going and I'm assuming that is where he was based upon the circuit layout. Correct me if I'm wrong PA....Thanks
#7
***Update: 07/29/2013 and need more help, please!!***
Well, I have not been able to fix the light issue. I took it to one mechanic shop and during the time it was there, the lights only came on once. They couldn't find the issue and said it could be the driver's multiplex. They said they could replace it, but they weren't sure that would solve the problem. So I took the car home and parked it until I figured out what I was going to do with it. On the second night, the freaking lights came on again, so I disconnected the battery. I was finally recommended to this one shop that "specializes" in automotive electrical issues. Lo and behold, the lights never came on while the car was at this shop.
Anyhow, on to the present issues. While dealing with the light issues, the engine started revving on its own. It went from about 1,000rpms to about 2,500rpms. That is when I decided to take the car to this auto shop that I mentioned above. They apparently repaired a short that they found that was causing a short from the ECM to the Idle Air Control Valve (IAC). That and they replaced the IAC itself. That kind of took care of the issue, but now when I start the car, it revs up to anywhere from 1,000rpms to about 2,000rpms and stays there. I have to depress the accelerator and then the rpms drop down near to 500rpms or less, and the engine shudders a little as if it were going to die but hovers at about 400rpms (on two occasions the engine has died). After driving it or letting it idle, the rpms will go back to about 800rpms.
So my questions are as follows:
1.) Is that something that this auto shop should repair since they messed with it in the first place? This was NOT an issue I was having with the car prior to them working on it.
2.) What could be causing this issue?
3.) Should I just bite the bullet and take it to a Honda dealership for these issues? I haven't because I have been quoted $107.00 just so they can run a diagnostics check.
And the last issue. I was reading on this forum about warped rotors vs something else (I can't recall what it was called) and now I can't find that thread. If anyone knows what I am referring to, could you please send me the link. Basically, what is happening is that when I brake the steering wheel shudders. This occurs anytime I am going about 25mph.
Any advice would be much appreciated!!!! I apologize if I should have started a new thread, but I figured it's about the same subject (my car).
Well, I have not been able to fix the light issue. I took it to one mechanic shop and during the time it was there, the lights only came on once. They couldn't find the issue and said it could be the driver's multiplex. They said they could replace it, but they weren't sure that would solve the problem. So I took the car home and parked it until I figured out what I was going to do with it. On the second night, the freaking lights came on again, so I disconnected the battery. I was finally recommended to this one shop that "specializes" in automotive electrical issues. Lo and behold, the lights never came on while the car was at this shop.
Anyhow, on to the present issues. While dealing with the light issues, the engine started revving on its own. It went from about 1,000rpms to about 2,500rpms. That is when I decided to take the car to this auto shop that I mentioned above. They apparently repaired a short that they found that was causing a short from the ECM to the Idle Air Control Valve (IAC). That and they replaced the IAC itself. That kind of took care of the issue, but now when I start the car, it revs up to anywhere from 1,000rpms to about 2,000rpms and stays there. I have to depress the accelerator and then the rpms drop down near to 500rpms or less, and the engine shudders a little as if it were going to die but hovers at about 400rpms (on two occasions the engine has died). After driving it or letting it idle, the rpms will go back to about 800rpms.
So my questions are as follows:
1.) Is that something that this auto shop should repair since they messed with it in the first place? This was NOT an issue I was having with the car prior to them working on it.
2.) What could be causing this issue?
3.) Should I just bite the bullet and take it to a Honda dealership for these issues? I haven't because I have been quoted $107.00 just so they can run a diagnostics check.
And the last issue. I was reading on this forum about warped rotors vs something else (I can't recall what it was called) and now I can't find that thread. If anyone knows what I am referring to, could you please send me the link. Basically, what is happening is that when I brake the steering wheel shudders. This occurs anytime I am going about 25mph.
Any advice would be much appreciated!!!! I apologize if I should have started a new thread, but I figured it's about the same subject (my car).
#8
Here's a couple threads that might help?
Idle setting (written for 4-cyl, but worth a shot anyway):
https://www.hondaaccordforum.com/for...e-speed-38734/
Brakes:
https://www.hondaaccordforum.com/for...-rotors-27436/
Idle setting (written for 4-cyl, but worth a shot anyway):
https://www.hondaaccordforum.com/for...e-speed-38734/
Brakes:
https://www.hondaaccordforum.com/for...-rotors-27436/
#9
Here's a couple threads that might help?
Idle setting (written for 4-cyl, but worth a shot anyway):
https://www.hondaaccordforum.com/for...e-speed-38734/
Brakes:
https://www.hondaaccordforum.com/for...-rotors-27436/
Idle setting (written for 4-cyl, but worth a shot anyway):
https://www.hondaaccordforum.com/for...e-speed-38734/
Brakes:
https://www.hondaaccordforum.com/for...-rotors-27436/
1.) When I replaced the brake pads, I also had the rotors resurfaced. The steering wheel "shuddering" didn't occur until a few weeks later. Granted, I did not follow the instructions of "bedding-in" the pads since I wasn't aware of this procedure. Anyhow, the question I have is what do I do now? Do I have to resurface the rotors and buy new brake pads or can I still conduct this "bedding-in" procedure with the problem as is?
Thanks again for all the help!!
Oh, and I took the car back to that auto shop and they are going to take a look at it.
#10
I would try the bedding-in process again. It may or may not work, but it's free.
If it doesn't work, then resurface the rotors but you don't need new pads again. You might get away with removing the rotors and scuffing them up with coarse scotchbrite or emory paper. Just be careful to do that uniformly around the surface of the rotor. Then do the bedding-in again.
The important thing about the bedding-in process is that you don't completely stop with the brakes clamped. So you should find a traffic situation where you aren't forced to completely stop.
If it doesn't work, then resurface the rotors but you don't need new pads again. You might get away with removing the rotors and scuffing them up with coarse scotchbrite or emory paper. Just be careful to do that uniformly around the surface of the rotor. Then do the bedding-in again.
The important thing about the bedding-in process is that you don't completely stop with the brakes clamped. So you should find a traffic situation where you aren't forced to completely stop.