From the manual it looks like I should be able to read the freeze data for the other codes. I am not presented the other codes to select from like the manual says you can. It does say "Faults with higher priority can overwrite VIEW FREEZE DATA."

This is the tool I am using:


I don't see a manual on the Amazon website to link to for you. This model can't be found on the Actron website where you would expect to be able to find a manual.

 

From the detailed description of scanner, the LTFT info is "freeze-frame" data gathered at the time of the DTC setting. The 1, 2, 3, 4 probably refers to the cylinder associated w/ the codes P301, 302,... There is likely a limit on freeze-frame data capture, apparently for 4 codes.

The high negative LTFT does suggest a fuel delivery problem; high fuel pressure problem, FI sticking open sometimes. An intermittent problem on 1-2 cylinders would play havoc w/ LTFT providing too much bias for some cylinders and if intermittent, too much bias for all at other times. High negative LTFT for 1-2 cylinders might also indicate an air blockage for those cylinders, but this would be unlikely to be intermittent.

I reviewed the Honda Shop Manual for 2003-2006 V6 and it is virtually identical to the Acura 3.5 V6 I worked on yesterday. The manual is fine for FI removal/installation. If you decide to do this, the basic tools are 3/8" ratchet, metric sockets 10, 12. 1/4" x 8mm socket and short 1/4" extension. A 3/8" torque wrench would be good to tighten bolts on installation, but not essential if you're comfortable w/ estimating torque. You don't want to twist off the small 6mm (10mm socket) and 8mm (12MM socket) bolts in the manifold!

Unless someone has a better idea, suggest considering cleaning FI's using DIY methods described on youtube. I did not build the elaborate pressure cleaning, but used shop air compressor to blast clean whle FI was opened. You may need to experiment to see how much voltage necessary to reliably open FI. Some apparently will open w/ as little as 1.5V, but celica injectors req'd 4.5v to open reliably. You can get a rebuilt set of FI's from many sources for < $200, used set for < $100.

good luck

 

When you removed the intake manifold yesterday, did you find that you needed a new gasket?

What do you think about getting the follwing item TF31:

Top Feed Kits - Mr Injector Parts

In addition to cleaning them this way I could replace any damaged rubber. I would also replace all of these parts since all of them are 11 years old. I don't have an air compressor. Do you think that they can be cleaned good using pressurized carb cleaner? How many hours do you estimate it will take me so I can find the right car downtime window.

 

First I re-used all gaskets. I reset ECU this morning and drove w/o problems. I was amazed at how clean EGR passages were on my MDX after 150K miles. Honda/Acura has really improved this system in V6's and IL4's.

You may be paying for a lot of parts you don't need w/ the kits, however they appear to be a good kit. I've never seen a lower seal that was damaged and not re-usable. I simply clean and lube them. The upper orings that seal to the fuel rail are a different story. I would replace all of these w/ new and use silicone grease or other light lube for installation.

I would guess about 1-1.5 hrs to remove fuel injectors. Another 2 hrs to clean/prep FI's, and 1 -1.5 hrs installation. You will need some time to rig the FI actuation wiring and clips.

One other tool you need is a magnetic retrieval. Absolutely essential to pickup dropped sockets and to assist installing bolts/nuts in tiqht quarters w/o dropping. There are two 8mm socket size bolts holding fuel rail on that require patience and use of magnetic tool to avoid dropping.

good luck

 

Just for giggles......start the car and let it start to "act up" - pull the connector to the coils one at a time. Does the engine act worse or stay the same? Reconnect that coil and move to the next one.

Then, just me, I've torn a small piece of a shop towel and place it over the socket and then insert the bolt into the towel/socket....should hold the bolt into the socket and let you get it started into the hole. The key is when you remove the socket the towel part might come out so be prepared and have any "holes" covered or plugged so the small piece of towel doesn't fall into a place where bad things can happen......even then a shop vac may help get it out.

 

I don't have an air compressor or vise. Do you still think that it is doable? Can they be cleaned with carb cleaner and gasoline? I guess I could use cans of compressed air as well. I do have a 3/8" torque wrench and a magnetic exterendable tool. I can rig up batteries (1.5, 3.0, 6.0, or 9 volt) to get them to operate during cleaning.

Is it better to replace the screens or to clean them? Have you replaced the screens? How difficult was it to remove them from the injectors?

It would likely be good for me to have a spare gasket on hand, just in case it is needed. Does it matter if it is OEM or aftermarket?

 

All the DIY cleaning I've reviewed used compressed air to clean. I suspect thie reason is to clear any scale that might have been loosened. You can only clear w/ reverse flow since the injector spray holes are very fine.

I think cleaning the screens is adequate if you have an air source to blast clean. What about a couple of cans of compressed air used to clean computer keyboards?

I would use throttle body cleaner, brake parts cleaner, or dedicated FI cleaning agent to clean. Gasoline may not get the job done quickly enough.

You should clean around the fuel injector ports into intake manifold w/ brush and some compressed air to blow away dirt before removing FI's. Plug openings w/ paper towel when not in use to avoid dropping anything (uh oh!).

good luck

 

I found following video on servicing fuel injectors. Looks do-able. I may order parts for my celica and try this. Service kit was $18 for celica. This is similar to what you found I believe. Probably worth doing given the effort to reach FI's on your vehicle.


good luck

 

Thanks. It was a good video.

I went to the website where the kit was that I mentioned to look closely at the parts that were included (Mr Injector - Home). When I looked a bit more closely, his key business wasn't selling parts, but refurbising and testing injectors that you send to him. This is the guy who made the video you just mentioned. He charges $16 per injector to resistance test, dismantle, ultrasonicly clean, and install new parts (screens, printle caps, orings). He then flow tests and tests flow pattern. The perfectionist in me likes that he is testing them after the cleaning. He is also making his living at doing this and is probably going to do a better job than I can on my first try. Then there is the work and car downtime acccessing my injectors again if I don't get it right the first time. The cost for his parts kit shipped was $63. The cost for him to do my injectors himself was $104 plus shipping. Last night I was leaning strongly to this. Until I started looking at shipping. He almost lives in Canada. Which is a long way from me. While this increases the shipping cost some, it dramatically increased time for me. I don't know that I can do without my only car for 6-7 days.

This seems to be a deal breaking issue for me. For someone else, it may be different if you are closer or have several cars.

I then started looking for somewhere closer to me that would perform the same service. I have located someone locally who does essentially the same thing (including the testing before and after). This is the only thing he does for a living. He turns things around in 1 day right now, maybe some other time up to two days if he is busy. Or if you pay a premium, he will do them while you wait in 1.5 hours. He charges $18 per injector and there wouldn't be any shipping cost. Or $25 per injector to do it while you wait. This would be a total of $117 versus $63 if I get the parts kit and do it myself. So it would cost me $54 dollars more. I am checking with him right now to see if I can watch him do some. So I can probably turn my car around in 2 days if I went this route.

I also swapped the coils between cylinders 1 and 5. It didn't make any difference. After clearing the codes, the misfire codes came back. I did check the data associated with the new missfires. We got lucky in that the data was saved for a different misfire. Code P0301. Here is the fuel trim data associated with it. Short Term Fuel Trim (STFT) 1 18.7%; Long term fuel trim (ltft) 1 0%; STFT 2 10.1%; LTFT 2 0%; STFT 3 -100.6%; LTFT 3 -100.6%; STFT 4 -100.6%; LTFT 4 -100.6%. I am not sure if it provides more insight into what the issue is or not.

Sorry for the long detailed update, that is where I am right now.

 

Something is going wrong w/ cylinder #3 (if that is correct interpretation of data).

Since you are sensitive to an extended shutdown, why not order a replacement set of injectors already cleaned/rebuilt. A bit higher cost but no delay in availability. Local firm that did diagnostic on my Celica recommended Linder Technical ($180 for rebuilt set). They also indicate some core return credit may be available.

good luck