Hi all

I have a 1997 Accord EX and the dealer says that the VTEC valve is the source of my oil leak. I had the O ring on the distributor replaced last week by Honda as I didn't want to possibly mess up the timing, so that has been ruled out. I have ordered the 2 gasket kits for the VTEC solenoid (1) SPOOL VALVE FILTER and (2) SOLENOID BASE GASKET. The dealer wanted over $300 to install these as they are "tricky". That seemed a bit excessive.

Right now the main fuel cannister is being replaced by the dealer as the engine light came on and it was a purge issue (gas cap good)...not cheap and not too sure I wanted to play with gas lines. They had to run a smoke test to find it....so they said. This is quite an expensive part to replace.

Having quite a week with this car.

Anyway, since the car is not here and I can't see it, can anyone explain how to remove this VTEC solenoid? I have the exploded view from Majestic Honda printed out. I see the 3 bolts (vertical) on the flange but it looks like there are bolts in the rear (horizontal) that bolt the valve to the head.

I also have the Service Manual but its useless regarding the VTEC solenoid.

Do other items have to be removed? Is it easy? How many bolts go into the head? Or should I let Honda do it?

I do have a reasonable set of metric tools.

Thanks in advance
JayKay

 

I moved your post for better response. Buried as final item for an old thread, it will get little attention.

I have installed the Figure 8 oring on the Vtec, but not the lower. It was easy and is likely the source of your leak. The oring get's brittle w/ age and begins to leak. It should take about 15 mins w/ ratchet, extension, and 10mm socket.

good luck

 

The top o-ring is simple to replace.

The on that has the screen is a bit more difficult to access. There are three 10mm bolts. One of the bolts is tough to access. Draining the coolant and removing the thermostat housing gives good access to that bolt with a socket. Do not use a boxed end wrench, as you will likely strip the bolt (I did that once).

 

I was wondereing where the post went..I had book marked it and it was gone!!

So I found it by searching on my username...

...and thanks to Texas Honda for moving it for visibility.

I don't see any oil on the flange but I will change those O rings anyway. OK on removing the thermostat housing for easier access .. had that off about 2 months ago...not too much trouble.

And will use sockets to remove the 3 bolts.

The guy at Honda really made it sound like it was designing an airplane as it was "very labor intensive"....maybe on the book hours to charge me it was but if I recall the thermostat housing can be out in about 20-30 minutes at a lesiurely pace.

I will now watch the flange area for a week or two before pulling the valve out. Honda at least cleared the area. I will then be able to see if from the top or not.

Thanks again
JayKay

 

All

I have watched the VTEC valve now for a few days and the leak is not coming out of the top flange (O ring)...

I was able to get my finger under the valve mounting flange to the head and there was oil there.

The last time I had the thermostat housing off, the system was partially empty due to overheating (bad radiator cap). I think the radiator has a drain plug for me to drain some of the coolant out.

Does the EGR valve also need to be removed (or what looks like one) to get to one of the 3 bolts mounting the valve to the head? Looks like it could get in the way.....

Looking for an approach......

 

I remember taking out just the thermostat housing gave me enough access to get a 6 point socket on the bolt with some extensions. If the EGR valve is in the way, then remove it. Just make sure you can get a socket on the EGR valve bolts securely, because I stripped one of those as well at some point.

 

DONE!

Took about 2.5 hours womb to tomb .. once the air ducting was removed, the actual thermostat housing and the larger thermostat mounting assembly was out (watch out for the water pipe going into that thermostat mounting assembly (2 more bolts)) it was easier to access the VTEC valve bolts with the EGR valve removed (2 12MM nuts). The water pipe going into the larger thermostat mounting housing can be twisted to get it out of the way once that larger themostat assembly is removed. The three bolts on the VTEC valve were then accessed with a 6 point 10MM socket and all went back together. Test drove it.... no over heating, engine kicks up to over 6000 RPM, no CHECK ENGINE LIGHT so I guess it went back together OK. I would think the oil leak is probably licked.

THANKS TO ALL WHO RESPONDED !!

Now a new this week...the ABS light came ....and that sounds like a new thread as the Honda people said the part (Modulator) was over $1200 to buy (57110-ST7-033)

Guess it never ends

 

Used modulators can be purchased for < $50 last I checked. Get ABS code and post for help.

good luck