No brake fluid!? Help
#1
No brake fluid!? Help
Hey guys, I just had my "buddy" install a new set of brakes + rotors in the back of my 03 automatic 4dr EX 4 cylinder accord.
No my brakes feel mushy after about 3 days from the installation. Two days after the install, my brake light turned on. I thought my car was thinking the E-brake was on, and it just needed an adjustment. Apparently not.
I will admit tonight it was raining and I was using my E-brake a few times in some drifts, but just a few times and not too aggressively.
Anyways, I checked my brake fluid under the hood and it's completely empty! I remember when installing the brakepads, there was some fluid leaking, and I told my buddy to make sure he tightened where the brakes were to stop any leaks.
I called him and now he's telling me the leaks were there when he took the wheels off to install the brakes, which I know is BS because the brake light would have already come on, not 2 days after installing the brakes.
ANYWAYS, I just need a solution, should I find the leak or loose connection and just fill in the brake fluid, or should I bleed the brakes and re-do my entire brake fluid, and should I NOT drive the car seeing as it appears to have no brake fluid?
PLEASE HELP!
No my brakes feel mushy after about 3 days from the installation. Two days after the install, my brake light turned on. I thought my car was thinking the E-brake was on, and it just needed an adjustment. Apparently not.
I will admit tonight it was raining and I was using my E-brake a few times in some drifts, but just a few times and not too aggressively.
Anyways, I checked my brake fluid under the hood and it's completely empty! I remember when installing the brakepads, there was some fluid leaking, and I told my buddy to make sure he tightened where the brakes were to stop any leaks.
I called him and now he's telling me the leaks were there when he took the wheels off to install the brakes, which I know is BS because the brake light would have already come on, not 2 days after installing the brakes.
ANYWAYS, I just need a solution, should I find the leak or loose connection and just fill in the brake fluid, or should I bleed the brakes and re-do my entire brake fluid, and should I NOT drive the car seeing as it appears to have no brake fluid?
PLEASE HELP!
#2
Do not drive the car. A car with marginal brakes is very dangerous for you and others.
Find the leak. It should be pretty obvious. When you did the brakes, did you disconnect the lines from the calipers? Or did you just loosen up the bleeder valve to bleed the lines?
Your e-brake is mechanical, so you wouldn't be using fluid to do this.
Find the leak. It should be pretty obvious. When you did the brakes, did you disconnect the lines from the calipers? Or did you just loosen up the bleeder valve to bleed the lines?
Your e-brake is mechanical, so you wouldn't be using fluid to do this.
#3
You definitely should not drive it in the condition it is in right now. Jack up the car and take off the wheel to examine the rear brakes. It may be at the bleeder valve if your friend loosen them or somewhere else. Look at the brake lines, etc. too. If the leak is found and repaired, then re-fill and bleed the brakes.
Edit: PAhonda beat me to the response.
Edit: PAhonda beat me to the response.
#4
Alright, looks like I'm going to be bleeding the brakes and putting new fluid in tomorrow (as long as there are no leaks and it was just something loosened or something along those lines)
My friend (a DIFFERENT friend) is helping me do this (you need 2 people anyways) and he told me all I needed were tools to take the tire off, a wrench to tighten/loosen the bolts, and fluid and a jack.
Anything else I need/you would recommend? Also, should I buy cheap DOT3 fluid or go to the Honda dealer to pick up some Honda fluid?
Also, anybody want to go over the basics of how to do it in case my friend is just as bad as my other friend at changing brakes?
THANKS!
My friend (a DIFFERENT friend) is helping me do this (you need 2 people anyways) and he told me all I needed were tools to take the tire off, a wrench to tighten/loosen the bolts, and fluid and a jack.
Anything else I need/you would recommend? Also, should I buy cheap DOT3 fluid or go to the Honda dealer to pick up some Honda fluid?
Also, anybody want to go over the basics of how to do it in case my friend is just as bad as my other friend at changing brakes?
THANKS!
#5
replacing rotors and pads does not require opening up the hydraulic system unless the calipers were replaced as well, so were they? you were as clear as mud as to all the components replaced. if you're lucky and the calipers were replaced it may just be a loose line...if not, sounds like you have a caliper leaking and that will need to be addressed.
any brand name DOT 3 fluid will be fine.
if your second friend is as bad as the first, get the number of a tow service so you can bring it into a shop
any brand name DOT 3 fluid will be fine.
if your second friend is as bad as the first, get the number of a tow service so you can bring it into a shop
#6
replacing rotors and pads does not require opening up the hydraulic system unless the calipers were replaced as well, so were they? you were as clear as mud as to all the components replaced. if you're lucky and the calipers were replaced it may just be a loose line...if not, sounds like you have a caliper leaking and that will need to be addressed.
any brand name DOT 3 fluid will be fine.
if your second friend is as bad as the first, get the number of a tow service so you can bring it into a shop
any brand name DOT 3 fluid will be fine.
if your second friend is as bad as the first, get the number of a tow service so you can bring it into a shop
the calipers are still the same. If it's a loose caliper, can I adjust/fix iyt or does it need to be replaced, and if so, what's pricing look like and where can I buy one?
#7
What I consistently read on the various forums is that a lot of guys like to open the bleeder valve when turning the piston back in (for rear disc), as they believe it makes it easier for them to turn the piston back in. (This is really unnecessary.) My guess is that your friend did that and either forgot to tighten the bleeder valve back or he loosen one where the bleeder screw came out of the caliper and he didn't re-install it properly (e.g., cross-threaded, etc.).
Look for leaks at the bleed screw, piston seal, and banjo bolt connection.
Attached are bleeding system instructions.
Look for leaks at the bleed screw, piston seal, and banjo bolt connection.
Attached are bleeding system instructions.
#8
For what it's worth, I had a similar dilemma a few weeks ago. Brake fluid just disappeared.
I refilled fluid and bled brakes but couldn't see any leak, I had the luxury of being able to let it sit for a couple days and sure enough big puddle was under the car (mine was passenger side rear). Caliper had a leak (after 11 years), not totally sure why, but $75 for a new one from Rockauto and good as new.
Even after bleeding and "re-pressurizing" I guess, it still didn't show up right away. If it's a bleeder screw you should notice that immediately.
Just my 28 cents worth.
I refilled fluid and bled brakes but couldn't see any leak, I had the luxury of being able to let it sit for a couple days and sure enough big puddle was under the car (mine was passenger side rear). Caliper had a leak (after 11 years), not totally sure why, but $75 for a new one from Rockauto and good as new.
Even after bleeding and "re-pressurizing" I guess, it still didn't show up right away. If it's a bleeder screw you should notice that immediately.
Just my 28 cents worth.
#9
For what it's worth, I had a similar dilemma a few weeks ago. Brake fluid just disappeared.
I refilled fluid and bled brakes but couldn't see any leak, I had the luxury of being able to let it sit for a couple days and sure enough big puddle was under the car (mine was passenger side rear). Caliper had a leak (after 11 years), not totally sure why, but $75 for a new one from Rockauto and good as new.
Even after bleeding and "re-pressurizing" I guess, it still didn't show up right away. If it's a bleeder screw you should notice that immediately.
Just my 28 cents worth.
I refilled fluid and bled brakes but couldn't see any leak, I had the luxury of being able to let it sit for a couple days and sure enough big puddle was under the car (mine was passenger side rear). Caliper had a leak (after 11 years), not totally sure why, but $75 for a new one from Rockauto and good as new.
Even after bleeding and "re-pressurizing" I guess, it still didn't show up right away. If it's a bleeder screw you should notice that immediately.
Just my 28 cents worth.
Oh thanks, I hope it ends up not being the caliper. If it is, would it not be wise to buy one from a junkyard??
BTW, I bought AutoZone brake fluid for only $6.50ish per quart and I bought 2 of them because they couldn't tell me how much I needed to bleed my entire brake system, and I tried googling it but could not find it quickly enough.
HOW MUCH brake fluid do I need to bleed and re-fill this entire car???
Thanks guys!
#10
A bone yard caliper will work, just for how ling is the question......10 years, 10 days?
As far as the fluid, well there isn't a "spec" for the amount, that I see. With 2 qts you should be fine. If you are going to flush/bleed them. Do yourself a favor, suck the old fluid out of the brake master before you start, many methods on how to do this. Fill the master with fresh fluid and have fun. I bleed brake with "Newton", takes a while but does work.
Be sure to follow the proper sequence for the bleeding.
As far as the fluid, well there isn't a "spec" for the amount, that I see. With 2 qts you should be fine. If you are going to flush/bleed them. Do yourself a favor, suck the old fluid out of the brake master before you start, many methods on how to do this. Fill the master with fresh fluid and have fun. I bleed brake with "Newton", takes a while but does work.
Be sure to follow the proper sequence for the bleeding.